Hydrometer reading confussion

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Wavery

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2014
Messages
97
Reaction score
4
I pitched a brew of Coopers Australian Lager (the kit uses an Ale yeast), using the "Brew enhancer 1" ( 600g dextrose and 400g of maltodextrin) 6 days ago. My OG was 1.037....

I took a reading 3 days later and got 1.027.

I just took another reading (after 6 days) and got 1.030.

The temp has been a consistent 72*F.

Why am I getting a fluctuating reading?
 
A hydrometer can give inaccurate readings if CO2 is present in the sample. The SG reading taken with a hydrometer also needs to be corrected for the temperature of the sample, if the temp is not the same as the calibration temperature of the hydrometer.
The sample tube needs to be held so the hydrometer isn't touching the sample tube. You need to be sure the sample size is large enough that the hydrometer does not rest on the bottom of the tube.

The hydrometer should read 1.000, in distilled water, at the same temperature as the calibration temperature of your hydrometer.
 
Did you add the maltodextrin after the first gravity reading? If so, maltodextrin will increase the sp. gr. since it does not ferment.
 
Maltodextrin actually does ferment, but no more than 5% max. Test your hydrometer to be sure you're getting accurate readings. It is going down, but I think it should've gone down farther in 6 days.
 
A hydrometer can give inaccurate readings if CO2 is present in the sample. The SG reading taken with a hydrometer also needs to be corrected for the temperature of the sample, if the temp is not the same as the calibration temperature of the hydrometer.
The sample tube needs to be held so the hydrometer isn't touching the sample tube. You need to be sure the sample size is large enough that the hydrometer does not rest on the bottom of the tube.

The hydrometer should read 1.000, in distilled water, at the same temperature as the calibration temperature of your hydrometer.
Thanks for that reply....

I was very careful to pitch the yeast @ 22C and the thermometer has been @ 22C ever since. I'm very confident about the temp and I set the sample tube on a level surface to take the reading. I also put an indelible ink line on the outside of the tube so that I know how much sample to put in the tube to bring the hydrometer about 1" from the top.

Maybe it's just my hydrometer technique that needs practice. Should I leave the hydrometer in the sample until the suds settle? I was sorta quick to take a reading. There is barely enough room in the sample tube for the hydrometer. Is there a method to be sure the CO2 bubbles are out of the sample?
 
Did you add the maltodextrin after the first gravity reading? If so, maltodextrin will increase the sp. gr. since it does not ferment.
I added all ingredients before taking the 1st reading. The few things that I did do wrong is that I pitched the yeast about 1 minute before taking the sample. I also took a reading from the 1st sample. I forgot that I was supposed to throw that out and take a 2nd sample.

I watched the Coopers DVD again after I was done and realized the mistakes that I made.
 
Thanks for that reply....

I was very careful to pitch the yeast @ 22C and the thermometer has been @ 22C ever since. I'm very confident about the temp and I set the sample tube on a level surface to take the reading. I also put an indelible ink line on the outside of the tube so that I know how much sample to put in the tube to bring the hydrometer about 1" from the top.

Maybe it's just my hydrometer technique that needs practice. Should I leave the hydrometer in the sample until the suds settle? I was sorta quick to take a reading. There is barely enough room in the sample tube for the hydrometer. Is there a method to be sure the CO2 bubbles are out of the sample?

Let the sample sit for a day, the CO2 should off gas. Hold the sample tube up to a light source. CO2 bubbles can be seen rather easily moving in solution. like in a glass of beer, or clinging to the hydrometer and sides of the tube.

Twirl the hydrometer in the tube, while holding it, for your next reading to keep it from sticking to the side of the tube. It is hard to find a flat surface to place the sample tube on, and keep the hydrometer from touching the sides of the sample tubes, unless you buy one of those humongous diameter sample tubes, but they take a lot of the precious beer for each sample.

I just hold the tube in my hand, twirl the hydrometer to get it vertical, and read it as it as the motion slows.
 
That DVD assumes you'll get a lot of trub, etc in the tube. I just let it settle a bit after topping off, then take the sample. Then pitch yeast.
 
Thanks for helping out........

Funny thing is...... I probably made 10-15 (23L) batches of Coopers when I was on my sailboat in Australia in 1986-87 then again in 1995. I never did any of this stuff. I only had rain water on board. I boiled it for 2 minutes and let it cool before using (as we did for our drinking water). I also just bought a bag of cane sugar and dumped it in the wort before pitching the yeast. I waited 2 weeks to bottle, another 2 weeks to drink and it was GREAT beer, every time. I also washed all my equipment with sea water and dish soap, rinsed well and put it away. Then I wiped it all down with a 10% solution of bleach and water to sanitize before using again.

The Coopers kits were $5 each then and an 18 pack of beer was $20. Everyone that I met brewed their own beer. We used 1L and 2L soft drink bottles to bottle the stuff.
 
OK...... I just took another reading (day 8)...

I used the offered advise. I filled the tube and inserted the hydrometer. I let it set for about 4 hours (to give the air bubbles a chance to escape) then gave the probe a spin (to be sure it wasn't touching the tube).

I got a perfect (no foam) reading of 1014........ does that sound right for day 8?
 
1.014 does sound good for day 8 but then again I have never measured for FG in less than 14 days.

I usually let my beers ferment for 3 weeks, check the FG once. If it is close to my predicted FG I go ahead and package. It has always been done by then.

I feel that if you give the yeast plenty of time to ferment and clean up off flavors created during fermentation the beer is better and more clear.
 
Thanks....... that's encouraging.

It was great when we were hundreds of miles from civilization, on some tropical island and had fresh brew for any other boats that happened to show up. There's nothing like it........ :D
 
1.014 does sound good for day 8 but then again I have never measured for FG in less than 14 days.

I usually let my beers ferment for 3 weeks, check the FG once. If it is close to my predicted FG I go ahead and package. It has always been done by then.

I feel that if you give the yeast plenty of time to ferment and clean up off flavors created during fermentation the beer is better and more clear.

It doesn't hurt the beer to leave it set after it's fully fermented? How long is too long :confused:
 
Just long enough for it to settle out clear or slightly misty. Too long & the hops would start fading. It depends on whether the beer needs aging or not.
 
Just long enough for it to settle out clear or slightly misty. Too long & the hops would start fading. It depends on whether the beer needs aging or not.


Like uniondr says. Long enough for it to settle. I find that 14 days total is about my minimum and usually 21 days.

Hoppy beers like IPA's, you don't want to leave too long as the hop flavor and aroma will fade.

Big, malty beers can go much longer. I have left some on the yeast for almost 2 months without problems. Longer than that, a secondary should be used. Certain styles benefit from long aging. I have heard of people bulk aging Barleywines for a year or more.

IMO, more problems arise from rushing things than leaving the beer on the yeast longer. At the very minimum I would go about 7-10 days before taking a final gravity reading, wait 2 days to confirm FG then wait another 3 days before bottling. Or just wait 14 days then check the gravity, if it is close to predicted FB - bottle or keg.
 
Like uniondr says. Long enough for it to settle. I find that 14 days total is about my minimum and usually 21 days.

Hoppy beers like IPA's, you don't want to leave too long as the hop flavor and aroma will fade.

Big, malty beers can go much longer. I have left some on the yeast for almost 2 months without problems. Longer than that, a secondary should be used. Certain styles benefit from long aging. I have heard of people bulk aging Barleywines for a year or more.

IMO, more problems arise from rushing things than leaving the beer on the yeast longer. At the very minimum I would go about 7-10 days before taking a final gravity reading, wait 2 days to confirm FG then wait another 3 days before bottling. Or just wait 14 days then check the gravity, if it is close to predicted FB - bottle or keg.
My plan was to wait 14 days. Maybe I'll go a little longer.

I have seen the term "predicted FB" a few times now. How does one predict the FB?
 
My plan was to wait 14 days. Maybe I'll go a little longer.

I have seen the term "predicted FB" a few times now. How does one predict the FB?


Predicted FG would come from calculations made by recipe design software or from the instructions with a kit. It is based on the recipe and the usual attenuation of the yeast being used. If you change the yeast from what is supplied in a kit the predicted FG could change a little.

Most kits give the predicted OG and FG in the instructions.
 
yes. If you plan on taking multiple readings over time be sure to take your readings from a representative sample of the wort and at 60F. That way you are using the hydrometer as it was intended and can compare over time.

I never measure until I am about to keg. Have yet to be off on my FG targets. I don't see the need for repeated measures. I give things plenty of time to settle in primary. Measure FG and keg.
 
OK..... here's another thought............. Can I bottle part of the batch at 14 days and the rest at 21 days? Is there any pros/cons to doing that?
 
OK..... here's another thought............. Can I bottle part of the batch at 14 days and the rest at 21 days? Is there any pros/cons to doing that?

I can't think of any pros. Cons would include additional risk of contamination, extra risk of oxidation, and having to go through the whole prep process for bottling twice. There are probably others, but these are the ones that come to mind quickly.
 
This scenario is like putting a brew to secondary, and taking a bit off to bottle, if you have your plans right and have the equipment I don't see a problem. That is of course if you are telling us the whole story ?
There always seems to be something that drops out later that pings us after doing our best .
 
I can't think of any pros. Cons would include additional risk of contamination, extra risk of oxidation, and having to go through the whole prep process for bottling twice. There are probably others, but these are the ones that come to mind quickly.
Thanks....... the cons do out-way the pros for sure.....

I was just simply thinking of seeing what the taste difference would be in leaving it an additional week.

Trust me fartinmartin..... I'm not smart enough to have a hidden agenda...:p
 
I don't see the rationale to this.

Trust your yeast to do the job.
There is no technical rationale and I know that....... I was just thinking that it may serve as a learning experience.
 
There is no technical rationale and I know that....... I was just thinking that it may serve as a learning experience.

Fair enough. You might not like what you learn though. I believe the experts say that the more times you mess with the wort in the fermenter the more oxygenation can occur. I try to do as little as possible to it.

I take a pre-boil gravity, post boil and one at packaging. 3 readings in total. The fermenting wort is not disturbed till I'm packaging the beer.
 
There is no technical rationale and I know that....... I was just thinking that it may serve as a learning experience.

You could do it as an experiment. The priming solution would need to be added to each bottle instead of bulk priming though. Take into account the double dipping does increase the risk of infection and oxidation.
In most beers I don't think you will notice much difference, except the 14 day beer may have permanent suspended particles and a lot more junk in the bottom of each bottle.
Unless you like the trub in your glass, it could mean leaving an extra ounce or two in the bottle. I hate leaving an ounce, but with some yeasts it is necessary.
 
You could do it as an experiment. The priming solution would need to be added to each bottle instead of bulk priming though. Take into account the double dipping does increase the risk of infection and oxidation.
In most beers I don't think you will notice much difference, except the 14 day beer may have permanent suspended particles and a lot more junk in the bottom of each bottle.
Unless you like the trub in your glass, it could mean leaving an extra ounce or two in the bottle. I hate leaving an ounce, but with some yeasts it is necessary.
OK.... you struck a cord there...... The only way that I know how to prime is by putting the drops in the bottle...... Remember..... I am quite green at this.

Please explain how to bulk prime.

I now have 2 of those 6G Coopers fermenting buckets. I also have a 6G bucket from Northern Brewer and a 5G SS pot with a lid. As my friends learn that I am brewing beer, they are coming out of the woodwork giving me their old stuff from when they tried brewing.

Anyway, I probably have the equipment to bulk prime but don't want to screw it up out of ignorance. I have a 23L batch (in a Coopers Fermenter) that will be ready to bottle in a few days.
 
Bulk priming is fairly simple. It is adding the priming sugar, dissolved in boiled water, to the bottling bucket. A calculator comes in handy. This is a good one, lists all the different types of sugars that can be used. Corn sugar and table sugar are the most commonly used. Easy to dissolve and form carbonation in less time than other sugars. Table sugar is also usually on hand and cheap.
http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator/

Enter your numbers at the top, look for the weight of sugar to use for the carbonation level chosen. Weighing the priming sugar is much more accurate than trying to use a volume measure.
Temperature is the temperature the beer was held at after fermentation. Cold beer in a bucket or carboy will hold more CO2 in suspension than a warm beer, therefore a cold beer will need less priming sugar. Holding your beer for three weeks will allow almost all of the CO2 to dissipate. I usually just enter 68°F.

My procedure is:
Start the auto siphon, when one-third of the beer is in the bottling bucket, slowly add the priming solution. No splashing.
The siphon action will swirl the beer in the bucket, curled siphon tube laying on the bottom does this, to mix the priming solution with the beer.
As further insurance I will use a sanitized spoon to gently stir, no splashing or vortex, the beer to make sure the priming solution is evenly mixed.

Proceed to bottling.

My preferences:
2.0, or less, volumes of CO2 is fairly flat
2.2 to 2.4 stouts to amber ales
2.6 to 2.8 petite French saison, spritzy
2.8 to 3.0 Bavarian hefeweizen, highly carbed.
 
Watch out for used plastic. Scratches from improper cleaning pads or storing equipment inside a bucket can harbor bacteria.
 
Watch out for used plastic. Scratches from improper cleaning pads or storing equipment inside a bucket can harbor bacteria.

HMMMMMMM!!!!! How do I detect that? I don't see any visible scratches and I was told that they only stored empty (plastic) beer bottles inside. All of the equipment looks very clean but I sanitized and stored them in sealed plastic bags, just in case.

Is careful sanitizing enough to take care of hidden bacteria?

Another question................ I was given 4, 64oz glass growlers. Is it OK to prime my brew in them? I can't imagine why not..... Do I just calculate the appropriate amount of priming sugar for the bottle size or is there more to it?
 
Going over the interior of the buckets with your finger tips may find any scratches or rough spots. The assurance that they were taken care of is helpful.

Sanitizers usually work on the surface without penetrating into gunk filled scratches which can harbor bacteria. A scratch could probably be cleaned out with a hot cleaning solution, but this would need to be done after each use of the bucket, which would become tedious. Cleaners which are strong enough to penetrate the depths of a scratch, may also penetrate the plastic, leaving undesirable aromas you would not want in contact with your beer. It would be better to replace a suspect bucket.

Do the buckets have spigots? Spigots should be removed and dismantled for periodic cleaning. There are areas around washers and inside the spigot which can accumulate gunk for a bacteria growth medium.

Growlers are designed to be filled with beer that has been carbonated, which requires much less glass strength, than needed to withstand the pressures developed during bottle carbonation. Some people have done it, without harm. Others have not been so lucky.
 
As long as you don't see the insides scratched all to hell, don't worry about it. I think folks worry to much about micro-scratches & the like. I've used my Cooper's Micro Brew FV & plastic buckets from the beginning & now worries. I just don't uses abrasives when cleaning. Just soak'em with 3TBSP PBW with room temp water up to the top of the crud ring.
 
As long as you don't see the insides scratched all to hell, don't worry about it. I think folks worry to much about micro-scratches & the like. I've used my Cooper's Micro Brew FV & plastic buckets from the beginning & now worries. I just don't uses abrasives when cleaning. Just soak'em with 3TBSP PBW with room temp water up to the top of the crud ring.
"PBW".............. what is that??:eek:
 
Back
Top