How to extract yeast & question about fermentation

[deewey78]

Hi everyone,

With my brother we've started to brew IPA, with this kit https://www.bieresdumonde.fr/beer-kit/7741-beer-kit-je-brasse-une-ipa.html (link is in french).

Our first brew was good, but with too much yeast in it. The fact is that the device we tried to use to put the beer in the bottle was broken, and we end up pouring the beer from the Carboy to the bottles.

We intend to buy a little electric pump for our secund brew (fermentation began last saturday), in order to properly "extract" the beer from the Carboy, do you guys think it is a valid option ?

I've also read that it is better to get rid of the yeast after the first fermentation. But if i use the pump to extract the beer from the cardboy just after the first fermentation I am afraid that it will "re-oxygenate" the beer, and restart the first fermentation (producing CO2 instead of alcool). How can I extract the beer withouth "oxygenate" the beer ?

Thanks a lot, and sorry for the poor english

 

[mattdnyc]

Others more experience than I may comment, but it sounds like your pouring/pumping the beer from the fermentation vessel directly into your bottles? Are you attempting to carbonate in bottle at all?

You shouldn't need an electric pump. Take the money you were going to spend on that and put it towards an auto-siphon (http://www.northernbrewer.com/auto-siphon-1-2?gclid=CP7yk9WMv88CFU1bhgodBNML1Q ), a bottling bucket (http://www.northernbrewer.com/6-5-gallon-bottling-bucket) , and a bottling wand (http://www.northernbrewer.com/spring-tip-bottle-filler).

Use the auto-siphon (and some tubing) to transfer the fermented beer into the bottling bucket. Add bottling sugar (corn sugar boiled with water, use online calculators for volumes), , then use the wand to fill your bottles. That will be much cleaner than what you are trying to do in the meantime.

 

[Norselord]

welcome to the wonderful hobby of brewing beer; you're life has changed forever.

I have no idea what you mean. May i recommend that you edit your post and below it rewrite your post in French? I believe your questions are simple enough so that someone who is even mildly conversant in French will be able to understand your questions better.

 

[deewey78]

@mattdnyc : Thanks for the link, this settle my first problem !

@Norselord : Ok i will rewrite it in French. In the meantime I will try to explain better my second question.

For what I've read, there is two phase in the fermentation in the carboy.
In the first one, the yeast consume the sugar and O2 to produce CO2 and water : (C6H12O6 (sugar) + 6O2 => 6CO2 + 6H2O) .
The second one begin when there is no more O2, in this phase, the yeast consume what's left of the sugar and produce CO2 and ethanol : (C6H12O6 (sugar) => 2CO2 + 2CH3CH2OH (ethanol))

I've also read that the yeast can add a bad taste to the beer, and that it is better to get rid of the yeast surplus after the first phase. (I am talking about the white stuff that appear in the lower part of the carboy). But I don't know how to do this. I am afraid that if I try to get the beer out of the carboy (leaving the yeast surplus behind) and put it in another carboy, it will add O2 in the beer. (And so it will retrigger the first phase of ther fermentation).

Is this clearer ?


Anyway thanks for answering so quickly !

 

[KepowOb]

If you do rewrite it in French I could help out.

I do think I understand though. As mattdncy said, don't get a pump, you want to siphon the beer and use a bottling wand.

Any oxygen added to the beer after fermentation has started won't change how the yeast are working, it will just oxygenate your beer and it will quickly develope a wet cardboard flavour. I've tasted it, and it's not nice at all.

When you are ready to bottle, siphon your beer to a bottling bucket.

This will "separate" it from the yeast. Then with a bottling wand, siphon from the bucket to your bottles.

 

[deewey78]

Thanks for all your responses !

In french :

Ce que je voudrais faire est en fait la chose suivante : extraire la bière de la dame-jeanne entre la première et la deuxième fermentation. De manière à ce que la bière reste le moins longtemps possible en contact avec le fond de levure qui se forme dans la dame-jeanne. Seulement j'ai peur qu'en retirant le mout de la dame-jeanne (pour la mettre dans un autre récipient ou finir la deuxième fermentation) il y ai une oxygénation du mout.

D'après ce site http://univers-biere.net/br_levure.php , la réaction de synthèse de l'éthanol ne se fait qu'en milieu anaérobique (en absence d'oxygène). D'ou mon inquiétude par rapport à l'apport d'oxygène.

 

[flars]

@mattdnyc : Thanks for the link, this settle my first problem !

@Norselord : Ok i will rewrite it in French. In the meantime I will try to explain better my second question.

For what I've read, there is two phase in the fermentation in the carboy.
In the first one, the yeast consume the sugar and O2 to produce CO2 and water : (C6H12O6 (sugar) + 6O2 => 6CO2 + 6H2O) .
The second one begin when there is no more O2, in this phase, the yeast consume what's left of the sugar and produce CO2 and ethanol : (C6H12O6 (sugar) => 2CO2 + 2CH3CH2OH (ethanol))

I've also read that the yeast can add a bad taste to the beer, and that it is better to get rid of the yeast surplus after the first phase. (I am talking about the white stuff that appear in the lower part of the carboy). But I don't know how to do this. I am afraid that if I try to get the beer out of the carboy (leaving the yeast surplus behind) and put it in another carboy, it will add O2 in the beer. (And so it will retrigger the first phase of ther fermentation).

Is this clearer ?


Anyway thanks for answering so quickly !

It isn't necessarily true that yeast will add a bad taste to the beer. Some strains of yeast taste very good when they end up in the glass. Best is to watch how you pour your beer to leave the sediment in the bottle. A smooth pour with no glugs will keep the sediment from mixing with the beer in the bottle.

Reducing the amount of sediment that makes it into the bottling bucket can be reduced by a longer primary time and careful racking. I typically have my beers in the primary for three to four weeks. The excess yeast and hop particles suspended by the off gassing CO2 will drop out and compact at the bottom of the fermentor. I don't use a secondary clearing vessel for most of my beers. No fermentation should be expected in the secondary clearing vessel unless you actually add other fermentables.

When you rack to the bottling bucket keep the siphon above the yeast/trub layer. Tilting the fermentor prior to racking will help with getting the most beer out without excess yeast and trub making it through the siphon.

 

[deewey78]

@ flars : Ok, thank for your answer, that's precisely what I wanted to know !

Thanks you all, i will let you know how our second brewing taste

 

[Kampenken]

@ flars : Ok, thank for your answer, that's precisely what I wanted to know !

Thanks you all, i will let you know how our second brewing taste

Yes to the above (oh and btw, your English is better than my French! ).

As for the yeast, really no worries at all. It is best to let your beer ferment for (almost always, there are some quicker beers) 2 weeks minimum on the yeast (cake). It is afterwards we pull the beer off (yes, auto siphon if out of carboy) leaving the yeast behind- some of us even harvest this yeast for later beers, but let's not get ahead of ourselves! You will rack (move) the beer into a bottling bucket and with your wand bottle the beer, after you've added a priming sugar water solution to the bucket- go on line to calculate how much to use (search priming sugar calculator), I use table sugar for mine, works great. This will carbonate your bottles, you will want to use the amount of sugar for the style of beer. Enjoy and cheers!