How long to bottle

[naa10104]

Hello,

Two questions, when I take my FG readings after 14 days to determine if fermentation is over .... what is the correct number of days between the readings ? Have heard 1,2 or 3 days. Also. if fermentation is done according to steady FG readings how soon do I HAVE to bottle the beer which is in a carboy with a proper airlock at app. 68-69 degrees ? Thanks very much !

 

[Taket_al_Tauro]

IME there is no need at all to rush when bottling, especially if it isn't something overly hoppy. But even there, you can definitely leave the beer in the fermenter a few additional weeks without issues. What style of beer is this?
I leave most of my beers at least one month in primary before bottling. At this point I'm usually just taking one single FG reading either a few days before, or at bottling time.

 

[naa10104]

Hello,

It is a gluten free holiday style beer, light colored Ale type. Made with Rice syrup and white Sorghum, and honey. 1 oz Cascade hops and some spices. Used a yeast nutrient and Nottingham Ale Yeast, 11g. OG of 1.081 and a healthy fermentation. Been in fermenter for 14 days today, Bubble every 11 seconds or so now, Krausen has dropped and beer is clearing up. Will take FG later today, but may not be able to bottle until Monday. Wanted to make sure that was not an issue. Thanks for your reply !

 

[Taket_al_Tauro]

I have no experience with gluten-free beers, but I'm sure those are no different than "normal ones" in this respect. I think you will be absolutely fine waiting until Monday or longer.
Personally I would not attempt to bottle if there is still a bubble every ca. 10 seconds... Although I'm well aware that residual airlock activitiy does not mean much, and FG readings are the only way to dertemine if fermentation is really done.

 

[VikeMan]

Two questions, when I take my FG readings after 14 days to determine if fermentation is over .... what is the correct number of days between the readings ? Have heard 1,2 or 3 days.

The problem with one day (or even two days sometimes) is that even though the gravity might still be slowly changing, you might interpret the two readings as being the same. Three days just reduces the chance of making that mistake.

 

[ncbrewer]

Normally 2 - 3 days between gravity readings is considered good for determining whether gravity is stable. I use a narrow range bottling hydrometer and can detect very small changes, so I go with 2 days. I would probably go with 3 days if using a standard hydrometer.

I see you used 11 gms of Nottingham for a 1.081 OG beer. Assuming it's a 5 gallon batch, that's a little low, and it might take longer to finish. I think I would give it at least 3 weeks before taking the first gravity sample.

Good luck with the brew.

 

[naa10104]

All great advice, thanks very much !!!

 

[kh54s10]

Knock on wood. I ferment for at least 14 days, usually 21 to 30 days, I take one gravity reading and if it is within a few points of predicted FG and I "feel" it is done, I bottle it. After all a recipe's prediction of FG is just that, a prediction. I have never had a problem.

 

[naa10104]

Hello,

Actually just took my first FG, 1.030. OG was 1.081. I am going to follow the advice here and give it another week. Question, is there a FG range that one looks for with any kind of beer or does it depend on the yeast, type of beer ? Thanks again !

 

[VikeMan]

Question, is there a FG range that one looks for with any kind of beer or does it depend on the yeast, type of beer ?

It depends on several things...

- The OG
- Wort Fermentability, driven by...
----- grain bill
----- mash temp(s)
----- mash length(s)
- Yeast strain

 

[naa10104]

Hello,

All above way over my head I used Rice syrup, White Sorghum, Honey and the Nottingham Ale yeast. Fermented at app. 66 - 69 degrees. One hour boil, then cooled down appropriately before pitching yeast. Had a very active fermentation which started within 24 hours and lasted for app. the first week. Still bubbling app. once every 11 seconds. Thanks

 

[Taket_al_Tauro]

1.030 is still quite high. It was a big beer with 1.081 OG, so I guess that the yeast is stressed and has some trouble finishing its job. As one poster above noted, one pkg Notthingam for 5 Gal of 1.081 wort may not have been enough yeast.
Given this info, I would definitely still wait more than just one week before bottling. If you have the possibility, try to raise the temperature a few degrees more (i.e up to 72-74) to encourage further attenuation. Good luck!

 

[naa10104]

Got it .... thanks !

 

[TechFanMD]

Normally 2 - 3 days between gravity readings is considered good for determining whether gravity is stable. I use a narrow range bottling hydrometer and can detect very small changes, so I go with 2 days. I would probably go with 3 days if using a standard hydrometer.

I see you used 11 gms of Nottingham for a 1.081 OG beer. Assuming it's a 5 gallon batch, that's a little low, and it might take longer to finish. I think I would give it at least 3 weeks before taking the first gravity sample.

Good luck with the brew.

So you're at 14 days with Notty.....while that OG is high and it's probably underpitched, I am surprised it isn't lower than 1.030 by now, especially with the easily consumed sugars involved. How are you measuring?.....hydrometer or refractometer?

 

[naa10104]

Hi ... using a hydrometer

 

[naa10104]

Question .... for future reference when making a beer with a high OG like this one, would you all recommend that i use a different yeast or pitch two packages of the same yeast ? By the way I am bringing the temp of the beer up to 72-74 degrees and that seems to be promoting more bubbling and movement of particles in the beer. As well as some very light/fine bubbling to the surface of the beer. Thanks !

 

[Taket_al_Tauro]

You definitely can use the same yeast, Notty is known as a good attenuator if I'm not mistaken. But you should use 2 packages IMO.

As for the bubbles, that might also just be excess CO2 escaping due to the temp increase... but hopefully there is also some fermentation going on !
Good luck

 

[VikeMan]

Question .... for future reference when making a beer with a high OG like this one, would you all recommend that i use a different yeast or pitch two packages of the same yeast ?

Nottingham has a very high ABV tolerance, so an OG of 1.081 is not a reason not to use it. Personally, I would have pitched more cells for 5 gallons of 1.081 wort.

 

[naa10104]

Got it, would you have pitched two full packages, 22g's total or a little less ? New to this and don't want to put too much yeast in. Thanks

 

[naa10104]

Follow up, would it be beneficial to pitch a small amount of yeast at this time? Thanks

 

[VikeMan]

Got it, would you have pitched two full packages, 22g's total or a little less ? New to this and don't want to put too much yeast in. Thanks

I recommend using a yeast calculator, such as Mr. Malty or YeastCalc, or use a calculator that's integrated into brewing software.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

New to this and don't want to put too much yeast in.

Lallemand has a pitch rate calculator (link) that you could use as a starting point. Note that pitch rate can vary by strain (e.g. Notthingham vs New England). Lallemand also has recommendations for higher OG worts - check the "technical data sheet" for the specific strain you are using for details.

 

[naa10104]

Great resource, thanks. Should have pitched app. 6-10 more gm.'s. Could I pitch a little more now and give it a week ? Or would you just leave it be for a week and then bottle ? thanks !!!!

 

[Beermeister32]

Some brewers of Barleywines and other huge brews finish off the fermentation with Champagne yeast. Good to drop it some extra points. Shouldn't change the flavor profile at this point.

 

[VikeMan]

Some brewers of Barleywines and other huge brews finish off the fermentation with Champagne yeast. Good to drop it some extra points. Shouldn't change the flavor profile at this point.

What champagne strain do you have in mind? By the time a fermentation is at a point to be "finished off," the simpler sugars have all been used. What's left is maltose and maltotriose. Most champagne strains are pretty bad at using maltose (ale strains will use virtually all of it) and they can't use maltotriose at all.

 

[Beermeister32]

Dunno. Another thing you can do to drop a few points is add 1/4-1/2 teaspoon amylase enzyme to the carboy with some fresh yeast and let it go to town.

 

[ncbrewer]

Got it, would you have pitched two full packages, 22g's total or a little less ? New to this and don't want to put too much yeast in. Thanks

From what I've read, slight over pitching is not normally a problem. If it were me, I'd go with two packages rather than take chances with contamination by weighing out part of a package. Opinions definitely vary - lots of brewers weigh out part of a package. But to me, in this case the questionable benefit of getting the pitch rate exactly right isn't worth the extra step and possible contamination. And different sources disagree about what is the correct pitching rate. If I remember right, Mr. Malty recommends higher rates.

 

[naa10104]

Thanks all for the info.

 

[Taket_al_Tauro]

From what I've read, slight over pitching is not normally a problem. If it were me, I'd go with two packages rather than take chances with contamination by weighing out part of a package. Opinions definitely vary - lots of brewers weigh out part of a package. But to me, in this case the questionable benefit of getting the pitch rate exactly right isn't worth the extra step and possible contamination. And different sources disagree about what is the correct pitching rate. If I remember right, Mr. Malty recommends higher rates.

I agree, better err on the side of overpitching than the opposite for most brews.
I also think that yeast calculators are definitely a great tool to get started and gather a feel for optimal pitching ranges, but they shouldn't be interpreted as gospel either.
I wouldn't bother to split up portions of dry yeast packages in an attempt to stick exactly to the cell count a yeast calculator recommends.

 

[Davedrinksbeer]

Here what I pitch for dry yeast as a guide.
OG up to 1.060 1 pack
OG our to 1.080 2 packs
OG over 1.080 3 packs
Also buy a $20 wine degasser wand that hooks up to a power drill, this will help put oxygen in your wort before you pitch the yeast.

 

[Davedrinksbeer]

Here what I pitch for dry yeast as a guide.
OG up to 1.060 1 pack
OG our to 1.080 2 packs
OG over 1.080 3 packs
Also buy a $20 wine degasser wand that hooks up to a power drill, this will help put oxygen in your wort before you pitch the yeast.

OG 1.060 to 1.080 pitch 2 packs of dry yeast

 

[naa10104]

Hello, Long story short I ended up agitating the beer a little bit with the airlock in place. And increased the ambient temperature to between 72 and 73 for about four to five days. After that I had to go out of town and the temperature was probably around 70°. At 72 or 73 degrees some bubbling resumed but not nearly as vigorous as during active fermentation. I am new at this and still learning. So being very simplistic the higher the OG the more sugar and because there’s more sugar you need more yeast to consume the sugar ... correct? I will be taking another FG reading on Sunday to see if it has gone down any more. My concern now is will there still be enough viable residual yeast to eat up the bottling sugar and cause carbonation? Any advice on adding a small amount of supplemental yeast at bottling would be appreciated. I will post the FG radio obtain on Sunday for everyone’s information. Thanks !!!

 

[Beermeister32]

Usually with ales there is enough residual yeast for bottling.

If you are making lagers that have cold conditioned for months you can knock enough yeast out of suspension that you might need to add a half packet of dry yeast at bottling time.

 

[naa10104]

Hi, this is a gluten-free ale. Just concerned that if the FG is still high all the yeast might’ve been exhausted trying to break down the sugars during fermentation.

 

[Beermeister32]

My guess is you are OK, there should be enough residual yeast to carbonate in bottles.

If you are really concerned, add a half pack of dry ale yeast into the bottling bucket. It won't hurt anything. Enjoy your beer!

 

[naa10104]

Hello,

I just checked the FG and it has dropped from 1.030 to 1.023 after another 5 days. Original OG was 1.081. Very light bubble activity in the airlock. Maybe 1-2 weak bubbles a minute. One thing I did notice is when I used the wine thief to take a sample to the same depth as before ... there was much more suspended solids/sediment than before. Don't know if that means anything ? I am inclined to bottle today or tomorrow ... your professional opinion on adding a half packet of yeast or not ? It did taste slightly different than 5 days ago, less sweet maybe a little bitter but not terrible. Thanks again.

steve

 

[VikeMan]

I just checked the FG and it has dropped from 1.030 to 1.023 after another 5 days. Original OG was 1.081. Very light bubble activity in the airlock. Maybe 1-2 weak bubbles a minute. One thing I did notice is when I used the wine thief to take a sample to the same depth as before ... there was much more suspended solids/sediment than before. Don't know if that means anything ? I am inclined to bottle today or tomorrow ... your professional opinion on adding a half packet of yeast or not ? It did taste slightly different than 5 days ago, less sweet maybe a little bitter but not terrible. Thanks again.

So, your gravity dropped 7 points in the last 5 days. You should make sure it's really finished before bottling.