How long is temperature regulation an issue?

[Tiredboy]

For those that haven't read my other posts I'm in Jamaica so fermentation temperature is an issue I need to address (ambient room temperature is 80-85 degrees). I'm probably going to go the expensive (but hopefully more reliable) way of maintaing the temperature and ferment in a spare room with the airconditioning set at the right temperature. My questions are:

Do I need to keep the temperature in the 60s-70s range for the whole 2 (or three) weeks in the fermenter or is it just the first few days that are the real issue (I've read conflicting opinions)?

Is temperature still an issue once I've bottled and if so, is putting the bottles in the fridge an acceptable solution or is too cold as bad as too warm?

 

[frazier]

I try to keep my swamp cooler in the mid 60's during active fermentation - so, 3 or 4 days. Once it quiets down, I don't worry about it any more. But, I've never had to deal with room temperatures in the 80's.

After bottling, I would let them condition at room temp for 3 weeks, then chill.

 

[OHIOSTEVE]

I am no expert so if someone tells you the complete opposite, listen to them. I believe the temp control is most important during the heavy fermentation, and some people even recommend raising it a little at the end. Keep in mind that if your ambient temp is 70 degrees the wort can actually be 5-10 degrees higher due to fermentation. So I would say turn the AC as low as it will possibly go and just leave it there.
As for the bottled beer, you have to keep it in fermenting temp range until it is carbed up. Revvy preaches 3 weeks at 70 degrees as a base to START with. Some are faster some are a bit longer. After the beer is carbed you can store it in the fridge but putting it in the fridge before it is fully carbed will stall the yeast and the beer will be flat.

 

[unionrdr]

I think the most important time for temp control is during initial,vigorous fermentation. The first few days where you see all the bubbling & krausen. After that,they say it's not as critical,buy I like to try & keep temps in range right up until it goes into the bottles. Then store the bottles in covered boxes @ room temp (preferably about 70F) for 3-5 weeks to carbonate as well as condition. You're not just trying to get the bubbles in the beer,but also aging it to get the aromas & flavors matured properly. Temps after bottling aren't as critical,but it has to be at room temp. You can't put them in the fridge to accomplish this. The cold temps will make the yeast go dormant,& stop doing their job.
The fridge is good after said 3-5 weeks to get the beer clearer,trub packed tighter on the bottom,& get rid of initial chill haze. 2 weeks in the fridge makes a thicker head,& longer lasting carbonation. I found this out at labor day,& my ales are so much better

 

[djfriesen]

Is there a more economical way to cool your fermentation? Perhaps using a fridge with a temperature controller? Or building an insulated chamber around a window A/C unit? Keeping a whole room cool enough to have a positive effect on your fermentation temperatures is going to cost a small fortune, I would think.

 

[unionrdr]

I saw a guy once that had a small window A/C unit blowing into a box surrounding his fermenter. I think that's a good idea if used with some temp control device. Some styrofoam insulation & a roll of duct tape can make all the difference.

 

[Tiredboy]

Is there a more economical way to cool your fermentation? Perhaps using a fridge with a temperature controller? Or building an insulated chamber around a window A/C unit? Keeping a whole room cool enough to have a positive effect on your fermentation temperatures is going to cost a small fortune, I would think.

Its certainly not the most cost effective option for the long run but I want to take as many potential issues out of the first brew as possible. A/C units are not window units (mounted high on the wall) and I'm not sure I can justify buying a new fridge for my first batch (if all goes well then maybe I will in the future). I thought about a swamp cooler but until I get my starter kit I won't know whether it will fit in my large icebox or how practical it will be to put it in the bath.

 

[unionrdr]

I see. Just try the room A/C this time. But this guy went & bought a small window unit just for his box rig. Only goes into service when fermenting a beer. I'm thinking of something like a chiller box of some kind myself. With dual temp controls,computer fan(s),& those plastic freezer things.

 

[Homercidal]

I've used the AC method and it worked fine. (Other than the wife wearing flannel PJs under her Long Johns in August...)

As an added bonus, it made it very easy to convince her that I needed to buy a fridge on CL for a fermentation chamber!

 

[CidahMastah]

+ 1 I would say the early fermentation (first 5-7 days) are key. The only time that would be not so true is say a lager or a super slow yeast. You need to watch those temps for longer. Just my experience - no science behind it.

 

[unionrdr]

Come to think of it,I'm fairly certain that the video I saw of the A/C fermenter box was on youtube. Maybe try searching "fermentation chambers"?...

 

[corkybstewart]

I see. Just try the room A/C this time. But this guy went & bought a small window unit just for his box rig. Only goes into service when fermenting a beer. I'm thinking of something like a chiller box of some kind myself. With dual temp controls,computer fan(s),& those plastic freezer things.

here's mine. I fermented a Kolsch at 57F this summer while my garage was over 110F. The external thermostat probe is in a thermowell(diptube from an old keg).I chill the wort to fermentation temp with an old immersion chiller in an ice bath. Then the AC probably only runs 10 minutes per hour, even in the summer.
I built mine out of plywood, then put 2 inches of styrofoam insulation and a layer of the foiled bubble wrap. As soon as I was finished I realized I could have gotten a dead upright freezer and mounted the AC on it, the insulation and door would have been much better than what I built.

To the OP I check my hydrometer samples and as the beer gets closer to being done I raise the temp a little. I have a 1.074 oatmeal stout in there right now. I kept it at 62F max until it got to 1.022, then I raised the thermostat to 64F and I'll leave it there for a week. The most critical time is the first 2/3 of fermentation.

 

[Sardoman]

+1 Cidah Mastah.

Proper temps from pitch through the end of vigorous fermentation, in my experience. However, it is strain dependent. If you have a strain that ferments slow and steady, then control the temps. longer.

In my experience, temp. control is not necessary for bottle conditioning.

 

[Tiredboy]

OK, so it looks like I'll be building a Son of Fermentation Chiller for the second batch (not sure I will have the time before the first so may need to stick to AC for that). All I need to do now is prepare a parts list so I can pick up electricals when I'm passing through Miami next.

 

[ReverseApacheMaster]

For an ale yeast, depending on the gravity the first 4-7 days are key. If the gravity is very high, maybe as much as 2-3 weeks.

 

[Hang Glider]

Perhaps simpler, since you have to change out ice in a son-of-fermentation-chiller anyway...

Can you get a large tub or ice chest? set your fermenter in that, fill it full of water - that will help stabilize temps. Then, swap out frozen water bottles twice a day, if needed. That thermal mass will keep your wort in fine shape as it turns into beer, and your expense for this project would be VERY small!

 

[two_hearted]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/how-critical-temp-control-after-active-fermentation-over-237849/

This is a great read. The guy did an experiment were he fermented 1/2 a batch under temp control from primary through conditioning and 1/2 during the first 5-7 days of "vigorous" fermentation, then condition at 78-80 for a week or so. The second 1/2 batch definitely developed off flavors.

Sorry guys, I've been meaning to post back for a while but I am smack in the middle of preparing to move to CO for grad school!!!

Here are the Cliff's notes...

4-10 Brew A was fermented in the 5 gal Better Bottle carboy. It was under temp control at 68* for 5 days, was moved to an un-airconditioned room for 2 days but the temps here in Texas climbed into the 90's and I wasn't interested in ruining 4.5 gal of beer! Beer temp never got higher than 78*. So I moved it into the A/C cooled bedroom closet and set the t-stat to 75* for the remainder of the fermentation period (21 days total).

Brew B was fermented in a 6.5 gal bucket and maintained at 68* for the entire 21 days in a fridge with a Johnson A419 digital temp controller.

4-20 First comparison on bottling day...
Both beers look the same as expected.
A-more pronounced bitterness, B-seems cleaner and smoother

Placed all bottled beers in the same warm room (the original fermentation room that got too hot).

5-4
A-almost flat. Still tastes fairly green and bitter
B-decent carbonation (though by no means fully carbed) and lacing. Tastes less green than A and bitterness is less harsh. Head is thin but persistent. Color and clarity is the same.

5-22
Father-in-law and I did a side by side comparison. These beers are now VERY similar but there are differences. Both pour into snifters with a 3" tight white head. Beautiful golden caramel color. Distinctively Belgian in character but the 550 throws more spicy phenols than fruity esters. Very digestable

A- head dissipates much quicker and to just a trace of white on the surface. Can be revived to a 1/4" with a swirl but quickly disappears again. Both of us perceived more bitterness in this beer than in B. No lacing.

B- head dissipates to a 1/4-1/2" which persists. Decent lacing on glass. Taste is clean and smooth. Bitterness supports the Belgian funk from the 550 rather than clashing with it as A does a little.

I expected that the increase in temp would have resulted in a lower FG in A, but it was actually a point higher than B. I was also surprised by how much longer A took to carb up than B. Head retention is clearly better in B and A is perceived as more bitter and a little harsher. That said, unless you are drinking them side by side and looking for differences, it would be hard to tell these two apart.

This experiment was enough to show me that if at all possible, I want my brews under temp control through the entire process. This resulted in a better beer that required less conditioning to reach its full potential. The beer was smoother than its counterpart, carbed faster, and has better lacing and head retention. Both are damn fine beers