How long do you ferment?

[aprichman]

Opinions on how long to ferment seem to be all over the place. Some of Papazian's simpler recipes advocate a primary fermentation of only a week. Northern Brewer's default recipe suggests 3 weeks if you're only using primary fermentation.

I've been trying to target around 2-3 weeks before bottling and was wondering what everyone else does. So I pose the question to you all, how long do you ferment for?

 

[ong]

Smaller beers (say, under 1.050) can ferment out pretty quickly; I generally do smaller beers for a week, then bring the temp up a bit and let them finish for another week (dry hopping during that time), then into the keg. But fermenting longer does help with a lot of off flavors -- 3-4 weeks is pretty much the standard around here.

 

[btbnl]

Let gravity be your guide - ferment until it's fermented!

The better you control the variables (especially the temperature and the quality and quantity of the yeast) the more predictable the fermentation will be, but ultimately it's measured by the carboy not the calendar.

 

[btbnl]

Let gravity be your guide - ferment until it's fermented!

The better you control the variables (especially the temperature and the quality and quantity of the yeast) the more predictable the fermentation will be, but ultimately it's measured by the carboy not the calendar.

 

[FatDragon]

For most ales, three weeks is a safe time. It's enough time for most ale yeasts to ferment out and clean up some off flavors from fermentation and for most of the yeast to flocculate. High gravity brews, sours, and of course lagers typically need longer, but most standard-gravity ales will be in good shape after three weeks in the fermenter.

With kegging equipment and the right styles, you can get certain beers from grain to glass in as little as four days to a week, and many beers could safely be bottled after a week, but that's not always the best idea, nor does it always produce the best results.

The final reason why kits typically recommend bottling after three weeks is probably because their lawyers told them to do so. Three weeks is long enough to virtually guarantee that the beer is finished, which means bottle bombs are less likely, which in turn means a lawsuit is less likely. After all, a glass bottle blowing up in your hand would be enough to put any homebrewer in a bad mood.

 

[eadavis80]

I've gone as little as two weeks on some brews - whether it was 2 weeks in primary or one week in primary and then 1 week in secondary. However, regardless I always make sure my gravity is at its target FG (or at least very, very close) before racking, or make sure my gravity is stable by taking 2 readings a few days apart. However, now that I finally got a 2nd primary fermenter, I'm more likely to let my beers sit in the primary 2 weeks before racking them. One thing I don't think any home brewer will argue is that patience helps nearly all beers.

 

[mrgrimm101]

Typically 3 weeks in primary. Sometimes 4 if it's a higher gravity beer. I've found that it hits the desired FG within the 3 week period, probably even within 2 weeks. I like to give it a little extra time for everything to settle and clear up. I rarely rack to secondary, but when I do I let that go for another week or 2. So usually 3-4 weeks before bottling. So far I've had no problems doing it this way.

 

[Hello]

I usually give it a good week after the krausen has dropped. Reality is a few weeks because I get busy or lazy. Beers that I dry hop get hops after the krausen layer has dropped and I try to get that beer out of the carboy no more than 7 days after dry hopping.

 

[HB_in_Subic]

If you are not going to measure the gravity, let it sit at least 10-14 days. The longer that you can let it sit the better. I have gone as long as 8 weeks without ill effect on ales. My ales are typically around 5.5-6.0% ABV

 

[Kozwald]

Standard for me is always 1 week Primary and 2 weeks Secondary. I like to try and let it keg condition for a week or two but I always get anxious and start drinking within a week.

 

[phyllobeddo]

Standard for me is three weeks in primary. No secondary. Two weeks in the wine fridge with temps in the low to mid 60s. One week at room temperature for clean up. If I get busy or lazy, it could be 30 days in the primary.

 

[dkevinb]

For the mid-gravity beers I brew I ferment for 2 weeks and they've always hit FG when I bottle. Then I bottle condition for 2 weeks. Bigger beers will probably take longer. A lot will depend on the pitching rate, yeast health, and ferm temps.

 

[Calder]

I'm not in any rush for a beer. 3 weeks primary, then 3 weeks secondary. I harvest yeast at the 3 week mark. All my beers are pretty clear going into the bottle, with very little sediment in the bottle.

 

[C-Rider]

Three weeks primary, no secondary. Pretty standard for me fermenting at 63*F in my freezer/fermenter. As said before big beers may need more time. BUT THE REAL ANSWER IS::::

WHEN YOUR HYDROMETER SAYS IT'S DONE. It's that simple. I always give plenty time so the yeast has time to clean itself up and make a nice bed at the bottom of the fermenter.

 

[FloppyKnockers]

3 weeks primary. No secondary unless I'm dry-hopping, fruiting, or need one of my buckets back. then into the keg/bottle for however long it takes to carb (3 minutes to 3 weeks).

 

[mrgrimm101]

I'm not in any rush for a beer. 3 weeks primary, then 3 weeks secondary. I harvest yeast at the 3 week mark. All my beers are pretty clear going into the bottle, with very little sediment in the bottle.

Cheers to this. While I don't personally secondary, I agree that it shouldn't be rushed. I read so many posts about people trying to rush their beer along. Give it the time it needs.

Three weeks primary, no secondary. Pretty standard for me fermenting at 63*F in my freezer/fermenter. I always give plenty time so the yeast has time to clean itself up and make a nice bed at the bottom of the fermenter.

Pretty much what I do as well. My basement is at about 64F currently so it keeps a nice, fairly stable temp. After 3 weeks minimum, the yeast is cleared up and settled and it looks nice and clear at the time of bottling.

 

[wetzie]

I am typically one week primary and two weeks secondary. Many of my beers are below 1.050 and I try for a heavier taste; higher mash temps. Lately I have been lazy and the beers have been sitting for 6-8 weeks

 

[mrgrimm101]

This is a question for all you brewers who DO NOT transfer to secondary.

I brewed an American strong ale over the weekend with an OG of about 1.074. Typically I do not transfer, but I'm also usually able to filter out some of the trub when I transfer from kettle to primary. HOWEVER, this batch had a little slip up and I wasn't able to use my screen filter as I normally do to filter the trub/hop material. I transferred A LOT of the trub. It is now bubbling away nicely in my new 6.5 gallon plastic Big Mouth Bubbler. My original plan was to let the beer sit for about 4 weeks and then bottle, but now I am sort of concerned about letting it sit for 4 weeks in my plastic carboy on all of that trub. I know it's a bit of an old-school thought that the trub is harmful, but I am still concerned.

How long would you consider too long to sit in primary, without the need for a secondary for extended aging. I realize that 4 weeks doesn't really qualify to be considered "long aging" but I am just curious how many of you think I might have an issue.

 

[GilaMinumBeer]

I ferment until I begin to itch or my wife refuses to kiss me. Wait, what?

 

[Yooper]

This is a question for all you brewers who DO NOT transfer to secondary.

I brewed an American strong ale over the weekend with an OG of about 1.074. Typically I do not transfer, but I'm also usually able to filter out some of the trub when I transfer from kettle to primary. HOWEVER, this batch had a little slip up and I wasn't able to use my screen filter as I normally do to filter the trub/hop material. I transferred A LOT of the trub. It is now bubbling away nicely in my new 6.5 gallon plastic Big Mouth Bubbler. My original plan was to let the beer sit for about 4 weeks and then bottle, but now I am sort of concerned about letting it sit for 4 weeks in my plastic carboy on all of that trub. I know it's a bit of an old-school thought that the trub is harmful, but I am still concerned.

How long would you consider too long to sit in primary, without the need for a secondary for extended aging. I realize that 4 weeks doesn't really qualify to be considered "long aging" but I am just curious how many of you think I might have an issue.

I have never left a beer in the fermenter for 4 weeks, at least not intentionally, but others have.

Once it's done, it's done. Once the beer has reached FG and is clear (or clearing), it can be bottled or kegged, or transferred to a carboy for aging.

If the beer is done, and clear, at 2.5 weeks, I see no advantage to just letting it sit based on a calendar. If it's not done, and not clear, at 2.5 weeks, I'd wait until it is. That's really all there is to it.

Beer ages just fine in the bottle or in a carboy, and doesn't need to sit on trub for that to happen. I personally dislike the yeast character imparted by a lengthy time on the trub, but others like it and so it is personal preference for sure.

 

[mrgrimm101]

I have never left a beer in the fermenter for 4 weeks, at least not intentionally, but others have.

Once it's done, it's done. Once the beer has reached FG and is clear (or clearing), it can be bottled or kegged, or transferred to a carboy for aging.

If the beer is done, and clear, at 2.5 weeks, I see no advantage to just letting it sit based on a calendar. If it's not done, and not clear, at 2.5 weeks, I'd wait until it is. That's really all there is to it.

Beer ages just fine in the bottle or in a carboy, and doesn't need to sit on trub for that to happen. I personally dislike the yeast character imparted by a lengthy time on the trub, but others like it and so it is personal preference for sure.

Ok. I'm typically a calendar kind of brewer..I usually let them sit for about 3 weeks then I bottle. I don't take final gravity readings days apart to make sure it's complete..I just take 1 reading on bottling day so I have my FG. I've never had an issue doing it this way, and to me, the extra week or so is always beneficial, as I end up with clean, clear beer.

I guess I figured for the kind of beer I made it would benefit from a little extra time.

 

[Yooper]

I guess I figured for the kind of beer I made it would benefit from a little extra time.

Well, sure it would. But time is time whether in a fermenter sitting on trub or in a bottle. Some beers need a bit of age to come together well, while some are great when they are two weeks old. It depends on so many things- ingredients (roasty flavors or complex flavors seem to take a bit longer to meld), ABV (higher alcohol beers need time, like a Belgian tripel), and if there were any fermentation mistakes (esters, fusels).

Instead of a calendar, I look at the beer. If it's obviously finished, and the beer is clear, then sitting in a fermenter on trub will be of no benefit to the beer. It might not hurt it, but it won't help it age faster either.

 

[mrgrimm101]

It might not hurt it, but it won't help it age faster either.

I see. I'm not trying to make it age any faster, I just didn't realize that sitting for an extra week in primary would yield the same result as bottling and letting it sit and condition in bottles.

 

[eadavis80]

Usually about 10-14 days in primary and then I rack, but now that I finally have another primary, I am not in a "hurry" to rack, so I'll probably let them sit a bit more. As long as the beer's gravity says it's ready to rack, that's the main thing IMO, though extra time to "clean up" is always a good thing. Biggest thing is never bottle before a stable gravity is reached.

 

[m00ps]

This is a question for all you brewers who DO NOT transfer to secondary.

I brewed an American strong ale over the weekend with an OG of about 1.074. Typically I do not transfer, but I'm also usually able to filter out some of the trub when I transfer from kettle to primary. HOWEVER, this batch had a little slip up and I wasn't able to use my screen filter as I normally do to filter the trub/hop material. I transferred A LOT of the trub. It is now bubbling away nicely in my new 6.5 gallon plastic Big Mouth Bubbler. My original plan was to let the beer sit for about 4 weeks and then bottle, but now I am sort of concerned about letting it sit for 4 weeks in my plastic carboy on all of that trub. I know it's a bit of an old-school thought that the trub is harmful, but I am still concerned.

How long would you consider too long to sit in primary, without the need for a secondary for extended aging. I realize that 4 weeks doesn't really qualify to be considered "long aging" but I am just curious how many of you think I might have an issue.

I;ve had brett'd beers sit for 4 months and they were fine. But for regular ales I;ve seen people do as long as 2 or 3 months with barleywines and stuff. I think youll be OK. Personally, I wouldnt transfer it, you;ve got most of your yeast in the trub too and it is still clenaing up probably

 

[Yooper]

I see. I'm not trying to make it age any faster, I just didn't realize that sitting for an extra week in primary would yield the same result as bottling and letting it sit and condition in bottles.

It won't. I mean, not exactly. There may be subtle differences in flavor. I don't care for the additional character imparted by the lengthy stay on the trub, but others do. But the aging is the same- if the roasty or complex flavors need time to meld or for the higher alcohol flavors need time to mellow- that part is the same whether it's in a carboy, in a conical, in the bottle, etc.

Aging is greatly related to temperature and time, and not the vessel the beer is in.

I'd suggest for anybody who hasn't done this to try it! Take the same beer. Split it into two fermenters. Leave one in the fermenter until it's done, plus 5 days (or until clear). Bottle. Leave one on the trub for a month. Bottle.

When the beers are 8 weeks old, compare them. See which YOU prefer. See if you even notice any differences at all! Some brewers do not have trained palates and others have undergone sensory training, so that often means a big difference in what we perceive. I'm extremely sensitive to diacteyl, DMS, yeast character, esters, etc. I notice. I have a preference. Others who routinely leave the beer in the fermenter may also notice, and prefer the extra character imparted. It really is a matter of preference.

You may love beer #1, or you may think beer #2 is better. Or you may not notice a whit of difference!

 

[mrgrimm101]

So I can't seem to find an area of my house that is ideal temp. Right now it's still going in my basement at about 61F. I wanted to move it to an area that is about 65F for a week or so (nowhere in my house is 65F), then finally move it upstairs at about 68F for a few days before bottling. I can't cold crash right now, but I figure the last few days at about 68 would help the yeast clean up and finish.

Were it to let it sit at 61F for a couple weeks, then go straight to 68F, would that be too big of a temp swing?

 

[hannibalmdq]

Were it to let it sit at 61F for a couple weeks, then go straight to 68F, would that be too big of a temp swing?

No, on the timeline your taking about the yeast will have finished up for probably a week and flocced out. Changing the temp 7 degrees isn't going to harm your beer.

 

[mrgrimm101]

Ok cool. Do you see any benefit to raising the temp at that point?

 

[hannibalmdq]

Ok cool. Do you see any benefit to raising the temp at that point?

My opinion is that for low-to-moderate OGs (ales) is that if your going to ramp temps you should do as attenuation completes (day 3 to 5) and hold it there for about a week. After that, I don't think the temp really matters all that much. It'll age faster (don't read better) at much higher temps. I wouldn't consider 68 a much high temp.

It you're bottle conditioning, a couple weeks at a warmer temp to carb up is helpful. Some people also prefer to cold condition after carbonation.

I'm pretty much with Yooper on this one. After your beer attenuates and clears you may as well bottle/keg. I don't have her distaste for long primaries, but the yeast isn't really doing anything beneficial for the beer. Aging is not a function of yeast activity.

Raise temps/lower temps, as long as you're not freezing it solid or boiling it, probably isn't going to make much of a difference over the course of a week or two.

 

[WissahickonBrew]

We keep it simple and predictable, just like the big boys!

The first 14 days @ the yeast strains recommended temperature range (look it up on the web, it's fascinating and detailed what the yeast producers will recommend)

Then 7 days in the fridge @ 34 degrees to drop out the yeast and clear up the funk. Total is 21 days, works perfect every time!

Can you shorten that? Can you lengthen that? I don't know, maybe? But we've been doing this long enough to ask the question, why dick around? Beer making is a systematic process if you want predictable results. Unless you are going rogue and trying to tweak a recipe, stay the course.

 

[mrgrimm101]

Yes i will be bottling and letting it bottle condition for at least 2 weeks at about 68F. I dont have a setup to cold crash so thats not an option for me currently. The OG was about 1.074 so i wouldnt consider that low. Its been 6 days and i dont think its done..the yeast is still visually active. The airlock has slowed to almost no activity, but the krausen hasnt dropped and the yeast is still swirling around.

I had just figured stepping up the temp for the extra week at a slightly higher temp would help it clear up and finish out, but it sounds like the difference it would make is negligible if anything.

 

[hannibalmdq]

Its been 6 days and i dont think its done..the yeast is still visually active. The airlock has slowed to almost no activity, but the krausen hasnt dropped and the yeast is still swirling around.

Assuming you pitched adequate quantities of health yeast and weren't fermenting well below the listed range, the yeast is likely done or finishing up attenuation. Lots of things affect flocculation, but it's entirely possible that your yeast are mostly done with the active part of fermentation and are just cleaning up and grouping together to floc out. Krausen can stick around long after fermentation is over, in fact, on some strains it can be quiet stubborn. It's not indicative of continued ferementation.

I had just figured stepping up the temp for the extra week at a slightly higher temp would help it clear up and finish out, but it sounds like the difference it would make is negligible if anything.

To be clear, I do think raising the temp 5ish degrees toward the end of attenuation and for the cleanup phase is beneficial. I would start the ramp at between the 4 to 6 day mark for a beer of that OG (really whenever it hit 70 to 80% attenuation). Yeast does a better job scrubbing diacetyl and other intermediate compounds at higher temps.

Raising the temp at the 2 week mark is likely too late for the yeast to be active at all though, and I don't think there would be a huge benefit to it.

 

[Yooper]

Yes i will be bottling and letting it bottle condition for at least 2 weeks at about 68F. I dont have a setup to cold crash so thats not an option for me currently. The OG was about 1.074 so i wouldnt consider that low. Its been 6 days and i dont think its done..the yeast is still visually active. The airlock has slowed to almost no activity, but the krausen hasnt dropped and the yeast is still swirling around.

I had just figured stepping up the temp for the extra week at a slightly higher temp would help it clear up and finish out, but it sounds like the difference it would make is negligible if anything.

If you're going to step up the temperature, do it now. It wouldn't help the beer fully attenuate if you step up the temperature once the yeast is finished anyway.

 

[bobeer]

I usually do 10-12 days in the fermentor then cold crash for 2-3 days and force carb in the keg for 2-3 days. I usually only use my house strain of yeast so I pretty much know when the beer has reached terminal gravity. Once that happens I let it sit for a little while longer to let the yeast clean things up. If it's not a high gravity beer, or aged on wood or with added flavors, I can go from grain to glass in about 3 weeks.
It's funny how 3 weeks used to seem like it took forever. Now it's not so bad.

 

[mrgrimm101]

To be clear, I do think raising the temp 5ish degrees toward the end of attenuation and for the cleanup phase is beneficial. I would start the ramp at between the 4 to 6 day mark for a beer of that OG (really whenever it hit 70 to 80% attenuation). Yeast does a better job scrubbing diacetyl and other intermediate compounds at higher temps.

Raising the temp at the 2 week mark is likely too late for the yeast to be active at all though, and I don't think there would be a huge benefit to it.

That was my plan, but there is nowhere in my house that is 5ish degrees higher than what its at now. I could move it upstairs, but that would raise it from 61F (currently) to about 68F-70F (upstairs). I didn't know if that was too big of a swing. And I didn't know if it was too early.

How do I tell the % of attenuation? I'm really paranoid about opening up the fermenter to take gravity samples, so I usually let it go for a few weeks and then bottle..always works favorably.

 

[Yooper]

That was my plan, but there is nowhere in my house that is 5ish degrees higher than what its at now. I could move it upstairs, but that would raise it from 61F (currently) to about 68F-70F (upstairs). I didn't know if that was too big of a swing. And I didn't know if it was too early.

How do I tell the % of attenuation? I'm really paranoid about opening up the fermenter to take gravity samples, so I usually let it go for a few weeks and then bottle..always works favorably.

It really depends on the yeast strain. If you're using, say, s04, I'd keep it cooler than 68. But if you're using S05, I'd keep it warmer than 65 degrees.

It may be too early, but if it's been fermenting for 6 days it should be pretty far along. The cold temperature may have it slowed, though.

Remember that we're talking about beer temperature, not ambient. So if it's an ambient of 61, and it's actively fermenting, perhaps the beer temperature is more like 63 or so.

 

[mrgrimm101]

I used rehydrated US-05 yeast. It has been 6 days, but the yeast is still visibly churning around. Ambient temp is about 60F, the fermometer on the carboy reads 61F. Considering the yeast that I used, I would be fine moving it up to around 68F? Like I said, I didn't want to bring it up the 8 degrees if it was going to have any ill-effects.

 

[Yooper]

I used rehydrated US-05 yeast. It has been 6 days, but the yeast is still visibly churning around. Ambient temp is about 60F, the fermometer on the carboy reads 61F. Considering the yeast that I used, I would be fine moving it up to around 68F? Like I said, I didn't want to bring it up the 8 degrees if it was going to have any ill-effects.

Yes. I actually prefer S05 at a warmer temperature. At 61, I find that I don't like those weird "peachy" flavors it produces.

While the yeast will ferment at a lower temperature, the preferred temperature range for that yeast for many of us is closer 65-68 degrees. It gets a bit estery at above 72 also.

 

[mrgrimm101]

Its sort of a big beer, thats why i put it in the basement at around 61F rather than upstairs at about 68F. I figured it would benefit from the lower temp. Fingers crossed that i dont get any peachy flavors..i hate peaches lol