How important is monitoring Ph levels?

[rothschild]

I'm looking to make my second batch of mead, 3 gallons of Ken Schramm's medium show mead. He says to watch and ensure a Ph level over 3.7. How important is that step?

While I'm asking questions, my understanding is that if I ferment the 3 gal. batch in a 5 gal. carboy, then rack to a 3 gal. carboy, I should be fine. Is that correct?

Okay one more question, if I'm aging it all together in the 3 gal. carboy, approximately how long, minimum, should I age it? I'm figuring 8 lbs of honey for the 3 gallons of mead.

Thanks very much!

 

[mccann51]

I'm looking to make my second batch of mead, 3 gallons of Ken Schramm's medium show mead. He says to watch and ensure a Ph level over 3.7. How important is that step?

Not very important unless you are going to be adding acidic fruit or something of that nature (lemons being an obvious example) and even then only if you're adding a lot, OR you have a stuck ferment and have ruled out other obvious factors. I personally have never checked the pH of any of my meads. I'm thinking about brewing a grapefruit melomel and for something like that I'd consider picking up some strips.

While I'm asking questions, my understanding is that if I ferment the 3 gal. batch in a 5 gal. carboy, then rack to a 3 gal. carboy, I should be fine. Is that correct?

Okay one more question, if I'm aging it all together in the 3 gal. carboy, approximately how long, minimum, should I age it? I'm figuring 8 lbs of honey for the 3 gallons of mead.

Yes, aging 3 gals in a 3 gal carboy should be fine. This should reduce the headspace enough to not have to be concerned w oxidation. And 8 lbs of honey is fine for 3 gals of mead; 2-3 lbs of honey per gallon is pretty standard.

 

[MedsenFey]

When making traditional meads, pH drops can be a very common problem and if you intend to make a lot of mead, get a pH meter is one of the best investments you can make. You'll find it helps you in a variety of situations.

Usually when making melomels, there is enough buffering capacity provided by the fruit/juice to keep the pH relatively stable, so if you are making melomels, you aren't as likely to need to worry about pH. If you want to make traditionals, or metheglyns, then pH is much more of an issue, but it will vary from honey to honey.

Medsen

 

[mccann51]

Any honey varietals that are particularly bad w pH drops?

 

[rothschild]

Are there any steps that can be taken to reduce the likelihood of a Ph drop in a traditional mead during the initial fermentation?

 

[MedsenFey]

Any honey varietals that are particularly bad w pH drops?

As a general rule, I think lighter honeys have more pH drops. I find it happens quite frequently with FL OB, and Tupelo.

Are there any steps that can be taken to reduce the likelihood of a Ph drop in a traditional mead during the initial fermentation?

There are several things you can do. Generally I check the pH during the first 24-48 hours of active fermentation as that is when the problem is most common and if I see the pH less than where I want it, I will use carbonates.

Potassium bicarbonate is usually easy to find in homebrew stores (or online). The potassium is taken up by the yeast to help them cope with low pH and the bicarbonate raise the pH. I add just enough to get the pH to a reasonable level - I don't try to raise the pH up to 3.8. The lower the final pH, the less like spoilage organisms can survive so I like to raise the pH the minimum amount necessary to insure proper fermentation and you'll almost never find me raising it above 3.4.

If you don't have potassium bicarbonate, potassium carbonate works just as well. Calcium carbonate will also work, but it doesn't give the yeast the extra potassium they need, and it takes longer to dissolve into solution so you have to wait hours for it to equilibrate so that you don't overshoot your target.

There are other things that can be used such as potassium hydroxide, but these things can be more dangerous to work with.

Now it is worth noting that if you use nutrients with a lot of autolyzed yeast such as Fermaid K or Fermaid O, these nutrients tend to raise pH. If you use the majority if your nutrients in this fashion, it may reduce the risk of pH drops. Roger Morse was a proponent of adding cream of tartar (4 g/gal) which can also provide effective buffering for a batch, though it will also add some acid flavor (which may be desirable).

I hope that helps.

Medsen

 

[rothschild]

Thanks very much, Medsen. That does help. I think I might go the cream of tartar route. It's most accessible.

 

[tweake]

one thing to add.....
some yeasts require PH to be above 3.5 compared to ph 2 or so for others.
so check what PH your yeast will work with, some are a lot fussier than others.

i think degassing helps stop ph dropping a bit during fermentation.