How does this recipe look? Chinook IPA

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Joewalla88

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A friend of mine wants me to help him make an IPA this weekend. He wants to do extract, which I am less familiar with, because I mostly do all grain. I plan to do a 1, maybe 2 gallon boil. I was going to add 3 lbs of light LME to start the boil and to get my IBUS right and then add the rest of the extract at the end.

Here's the recipe

7lbs of Light LME
1lb of Light DME
1lb 120l (steeping)
.5 table sugar

1oz chinook 60 mins
1oz chinook 30 mins
1oz chinook 10 mins
1oz chinook Dry hop (7 days)

According to brewersfriend the OG comes in around 1.061 and the IBUs are around 60.

Does this look okay? I'm wondering if the IBUs should be higher, but I heard chinook can be a bit aggressive, so I'm not sure.
 
I think that looks good. I did a similar all grain recipe and wish I had added the 30 and 10 minute hops under 10 minutes, maybe even 5 :)

I do agree you might want the IBUs a little higher to consider it an IPA though.

I have heard that when you're going for something on the pale side, LME might scorch causing it darken up a little. Someone else can probably speak to when you should add the extracts to avoid this.

Good luck!
 
That C-120 is going to add a whole heap of flavor and color that you might not want. I'd try .5 lbs of C-20 instead.

And as mentioned above, I'd move the 30 and 10 hop additions to 10 and 5.
 
That's what gave me the idea for the crystal 120. I thought something similar would be good. Maybe a little more aroma though.
 
You might consider loaning him your boil kettle so he can do a full volume boil. I have always found topped off IPAs to be lacking in hop flavor and aroma. I would also add some hops at 5 min and at flameout and drop the caramel malt.
 
I think I'll change the hop schedule up a bit with maybe a 10 and 5 min addition you all have suggested. I'm hoping the 120 will add some color and some depth to the flavor.
As far as the boil size goes, are there any tricks here to keep it on the stove top? I don't have any problem bringing my kettle, but he might be more interested in taking up the hobby if he knows he doesn't need to buy any extra gear at first.
 
I'm watching this one. I have a chinook rhizome I need to get in the ground still, this might be good for next year.
 
Okay, I think you guys have some solid advice. I don't know that we want to do a full wort boil, because of the chilling aspect, but I think we'll definitely do a larger boil than originally planned.
 
Okay, I have one more question concerning the partial boil. Are the ibus an estimate of what the 5 gallon batch will be after the top off water, or is it just for the initial boil. I started reading more about it and I've seen a lot about dilution. I'm just wondering if the online calculators account for this dilution or if it assumes that the ibus of the 3 gallon boil will carry directly over to the 5 gallon batch?
 
Okay, I have one more question concerning the partial boil. Are the ibus an estimate of what the 5 gallon batch will be after the top off water, or is it just for the initial boil. I started reading more about it and I've seen a lot about dilution. I'm just wondering if the online calculators account for this dilution or if it assumes that the ibus of the 3 gallon boil will carry directly over to the 5 gallon batch?

I think that in Beersmith you can have it account for the dilution but I'm not entirely sure.
 
To improve hop utilization and to keep SRM lower, add the bulk of the extract at flameout. This works well with IPA I find, and really helps when doing a smaller boil. Just let it sit for about 10 minutes to pasteurize.


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