How do you keep Keezer dry?

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Pumbapoindexter

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Please help I have a converted chest freezer that's a kegerator now. My problem is that I constantly have water and eventually mold in the bottom of it. I can't seem to keep it dry? Help what do you do? I have damp rid and desiccate in there but it doesn't maintain.


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In my experience a big source of H20 entering is from door seals and frequent opening and closing. As long as it's sealed well and stays shut you can put moisture absorbents in them and they'll stay MUCH drier.
 
Mine seems to be getting drier as I slow with the constant opening and closing. It's new so I'm still loading things in and such. I have an Eva dry in there as well. It is definitely wetter than it should be but I'm letting things equalize before I get wiggly. How long have you had yours?
 
I used to use an Eva-Dry E-500 with a 120mm fan on the compressor shelf blowing across the keezer. I found when I had multiple kegs on tap I started having moisture buildup on on the far side opposite the fan. I recently finished a new airflow set up that is working perfectly. I got the idea from here. I am now using the same Eva-Dry E-500 with a new fan setup (see photo). It is an inline bilge fan running on a modified computer PSU going to 1-1/2" PVC. Do not glue the PVC because you can re-aim them if necessary and it makes cleaning up if you have a keg leak easier. The rack is actually made for rolling out over a kitchen sink for drying dishes (home depot). I cut the tubes to length with standard tube cutter. I now have zero moisture problems even if I use the keezer as a fermentation chamber. I highly recommend this approach for moisture build up.

Keezer Fan 1.jpg


Keezer Fan 2.jpg


Keezer Fan 3.jpg


Keezer Fan PSU 1.jpg


Keezer Fan PSU 2.jpg
 
I've had the kegerator for over a year there is a collar on it. The point were moisture is coming in I think is were the gas hose is? I have a towel shoved in the hole. I have a big fan sitting on top of the kegs. I only open it to change out the damp rid or recharge the desiccate. I even keep weight on top of lid to make sure it's sealed properly.


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As others have said, condensation is caused by ambient air entering the fridge. Either by continued opening/closing of the door, or by an air leak. In a standard fridge there's a fan and a drain / evaporator system for the condensation, but in a converted chest freezer there is not.

Make sure there are no air leaks, and then stop opening the door! With a new system I know it's tempting to "check under the hood" all the time, but the less air you exchange, the better. Put something heavy on top of it so you aren't tempted to open the door.

Make sure all the seams are caulked around the collar, the weatherstripping/gasket is in good shape, and any wires/tubes that come into the system are sealed up as well. Just grab a tube of caulk and go to town.

Once it's sealed up, make sure you have a small fan inside, and at that point a small desicant system like the Eva-Dry should be able to take care of it. I have mine right below my fan and it works fine, I know others have attached the fan directly to it which should make it work even better.
 
What fan would you be using with that power supply?
That could handle a half dozen computer fans easily, but it would be under-sized by around half for one of those bilge blowers...

Cheers!
 
What fan would you be using with that power supply?

That could handle a half dozen computer fans easily, but it would be under-sized by around half for one of those bilge blowers...



Cheers!


It would be for a bilge fan. Do you have a recommendation for one that would work?
 
I just use two damp rids and it's bone dry in my 7 cu Keezer. Just make sure you don't have any air leaks and/or replace the seal on the lid. I also just use some cheap styrofoam on the inside of my collar doubled up and glued down. Seal up the corners of the collar with some silicone.


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It would be for a bilge fan. Do you have a recommendation for one that would work?

12V bilge blowers of that size are rated around 3A draw, which is a piece of cake for a dirt cheap (or even used/free) computer power supply. It's your desire for adjustability that becomes a problem, and peecee supplies don't provide adjustability without some hacking.

A 3A+ desktop adjustable power supply will go for around $60 at least. You can find candidates on Amazon ("adjustable power supplies" under Electronics). If I was bent on that solution I'd look for a switcher, not a linear...

Cheers!
 
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