Hot whirlpooling with plate chiller

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emjay

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Apologies in advance for posting a novel.

So I've got some shiny new equipment, including morebeer's new higher-flow march 809 pump, and the following Blichmann stuff: 15gal kettle, hop blocker, therminator (plate chiller), and hop rocket (hopback).

After looking at Jamil's whirlpooler (connects to an immersion chiller, and he says no money off it) where he claims it's got a number of advantages over even CFCs (plate chillers merely being a type of CFC), as well as immersion chillers without his gadget, all of it seems a bit moot if you do something similar with a CFC.

So, I've seen several similar setups to what I'm thinking, but none quite the same.

Many people (including me) will sanitize all their lines from kettle to the line leading to the fermentor by recirculating boiling water through the whole setup, including the chiller. So far, I'm thinking to run the sanitization stage a short while before the boil ends, out the kettle, into an empty hopback (assuming I intend to use it at all has filters inside to help remove particulate pre-pump, to the pump, to the plate chiller (without cold water turned on), and finally back into the kettle, all the while it continues to boil. And let that cycle for maybe 5 minutes. I'm waiting on a couple of parts to come back in stock before also including an in-line oxygenator after the chiller. But to sum it up, the sanitization step goes like so:

But since I'm guessing a whirlpool doesn't work too well while still boiling, my plan for whirlpooling involves cutting off the heat and doing the same thing with very hot, but not boiling wort, and possibly adding hops to the hopback at this stage for "whirlpool hopping". Of course, making sure I have an outlet submerged in the wort at a downward angle... (I hear 45° is best?) This is doubly important for me because the *NEW* Blichmann HopBlocker (the old, crappy one has been discontinued) is supposed to work phenomenally when used properly, but one of the things they emphasize is that you really NEED to whirlpool - presumably they mean by hand, but a lot of reading on this board seems to indicate that stirring results in a totally inferior cone (if any at all!) in comparison to a constant stream of pumped wort at a strategic angle in order to create the necessary current.

How long should the whirlpool like this take? 30 minutes, and them time for everything to settle? This technique is different from the closest one I've seen to mine, as when they whirlpool they are also chilling (though this takes longer than chilling with a CFC traditionally). And is 45° from horizontal really best? In my infinite ignorance, I'd have assumed that a more acute angle (as in, closer to parallel with the surface of the wort) would provide a more suitable whirlpool.

Anyways, the last bit is probably obvious, although I may sometimes replace the hops at this point with more/different hops. The only real differences from before are that I run cold water through the plate chiller, starting the pump back up when wort sitting inside it gets to a nice low temp, and that the hose from the chiller goes to the fermentor instead of back to the kettle.

Why is this all necessary? Well for one, the space taken up by the HopBlocket would make it more difficult to stir in an effective circle I'd think. Plus, I will eventually convert to a Hermes system with a big electric element also in the kettle, further interfering with big, circular motions from a spoon. Not to mention, I can just set it and forget it, rather than kill my arm trying to physically stir a decent cone.

Anyways, to just quickly sum up the steps:

Sterilization
Boiling kettle -> empty hopback -> pump -> plate chiller w/o cold water -> kettle

Whirlpooling
Sub-boiling kettle -> filled hopback -> pump -> plate chiller w/o cold water -> kettle (ensuring a good whirlpool position/orientation)

Cooling/Transfer to Fermentor
sub-boiling kettle -> (possibly freshly filled hopback) -> pump -> plate chiller WITH cold water -> fermentor

Only thing I'm not even close to sure about right now (barring any persuasive replies, of course) is the hopback at each stage. I'm leaning towards using it as an inline filter, to keep additional trub out of the pump and chiller, even if I'm not using it for hops. And then I'm not sure whether it's best to use it only during the whirlpool stage, the transfer stage (as actually intended), or both, and whether replenishing before the last stage would even have much of an effect, not to mention how much it may contribute to bittering during the whirlpool stage. But I guess I van experiment with various hoppy beers for that. The thing is just a real PITA to open.

Other than that, I'd love to hear some critiques from experienced HBTers, whether it's a big issue or a tiny one. For instance - is there any point at all NOT to chill while whirlpooling, if I don't plan on putting hops in the hopback when it transfers to the fermenter?

Any help will be immensely appreciated. Gracias, merci, obrigado, danke, arigato, dankzij, grazie, takk, ankthay ouya... thank you.
 
CFC/plate based whirlpool chillers should work as well as the immersion systems so long as you can get sufficient flow to keep a whirlpool going. It's not the route I would go, since a major advantage of whirlpooling in my book is being able to pull clean wort without dealing with a screen/fliter/blocker/etc. But, if the CFC approach appeals to you, you can still chill and whirlpool. I believe they are roughly equivalent as far as chilling efficiency goes.

Some people like to hot whirlpool, but I've never really seen the point. It seems to me just to be a functional extension of the boil, though others may suggest other experiences.

As far as positioning the recirc arm, it's just one of those things you need to experiment with a bit. 45º is higher than I use. Mine is probably 20º vertical off the bottom of the pot and 30º horizontal off the sidewall.

I don't know much about using the hop rocket during a recirculation, and I seem to recall Blichmann recommending against it. I guess you could run the recirc hot for a while to get the hops out of your hop rocket, but that seems to be missing the point of hopbacking. What would be the difference between using a hopback in this way and a flameout addition? I don't have any personal experience on these lines so I will believe others if they say that there is a difference, but I can't now think of any reason why there would be.

Besides not really understanding what you want the hop rocket to do, all sounds fine. Be careful of clogging your plate chiller. :mug:
 
I imagine that having a filled hop back between your kettle and pump would make your flow rate suffer. My only experience is BK>pump>CFC>Carboy. If using a plate chiller, make sure your really clear or filter. Building my own system, going to BK>pump>CFC>BK forming whirlpool.( Mines @ 45 deg. we'll see) The theroy being hot break in whirlpool, cold break in the chiller, back to the BK for more hot break....so on. Hopefully really scrub the gunk out. I guess it will all settle in the fermenter anyways though. Love to know what you learn.
 
I don't know if I can judge your method, but I can tell you about mine. Yours sounds good, but what sounds good and what works isn't always the same. I went through about 5 different iterations before getting it right. Recirculating requires over-engineering filtering of break, especially if you use pellets. I was determined to get it right for 100% pellet hop bills and also determined to be worry free re: my plate. Having a central bottom drain makes it even harder.

So, for me, everything that isn't wort goes into a paint strainer bag inside a steamer basket (bayou) which is suspended in the boil kettle. The bottom drain has 2 pieces of perforated stainless. The second of which is 14X14 mesh (the first is really more structural than a good filter). Above these pieces of metal, I have some sweated copper that extends the drain to be tangential to the kettle wall. So, when the bottom drain clogs, the next place to clog is as far away in the kettle as possible. The tangential drain has a bazooka screen on it which is 15X15 mesh. After that comes the boil kettle tri-clamp valve. And the last filter is a 20X20 mesh screen gasket right after the valve. This makes the point at which something would get clogged (that isn't the plate) in a serviceable place during the chill. I just swap gaskets. So, after my screen gasket comes my in line aeration stone build, then my pump, then my plate chiller, who's output is sent back into the kettle.

The last time I brewed, I got 12 mins from 212 to pitch and that's with 15 gal of wort (and a 30 plate chiller) with both wort and water running at about 5 GPM. Directly after chilling, I send water to thru to clear out wort and then I backflush into the HLT. I get nothing coming out of the plate. Also, this has made my yeast harvesting very clean. I'm wanting to see if washing is even necessary. Virtually no break at all.

Couple of things I learned:

-You will cool the wort down when you start the recirc even if there isn't any chill water. The plate is cool, so you'll drop a few degrees. Crank up the heat when you start. Or alternately, run some boiling wort thru in a couple short bursts over a few minutes to heat up and sanitize the line, and then run continuously. This is what I do.

-You don't really want to restrict the input of the pump. You might have problems with this if you aren't solely using whole hops in the hopback. Actually, whole hops are all you're supposed to really use in a hop back since a primary function of one is filtering (along with hop character). I really didn't want to do a hop back (something more to clean after brew day) so I concentrated on chilling stupid fast and filtering very well.

-Some people like to poo poo the hop bag and I wish I didn't have to go there, but I'll tell ya... cleaning pellet mud out of the kettle after brew day is over stinks worse- especially in the cracks of my electric elements and such. Lifting out most of the hop matter and then rinsing the rest down and out the bottom drain (ala the wort pump) is much better for me. Not sure what to say about hop utilization, but I don't think I have any problem. I'll actually start my recirc in the hop bag to leach out any late hop addition oils and then reposition the wort return (because the hop bag will actually overflow at 5 GPM... at least inside a steamer basket it will).

-I get no cone of matter in the center. Whirlpooling isn't really effective for me, so I don't really care to do it for long, just to sanitize the lines.

Couple of thoughts for your setup:
1) If I were you, I'd push thru the hop-back instead of pull thru it. Put it after the pump.
2) I don't see why you'd not also chill during the recirculation. That way all of the wort reaches pitching faster than 'some' of it. Of course, this makes filtering MUCH harder as pellets plus break = disaster unless it's over-engineered. I guess if hop back hop character is really what you're going for, then I can see why, but that says nothing about what you're loosing in regards to late hop additions in the kettle taking longer to chill. So, it's a toss up. I cared mostly about preserving late hop addition character rather than using a hop-back.
3) 20X20 mesh screen is really small. Much smaller (most likely) than your hop-back or hop rocket. You might still get some stuff in the plate chiller (not that that's the end of the world) if you don't put some whole hops in the hop-back... (but I don't speak from experience re: hopbacks).
4) Not that I can A/B it, but having no cold break hasn't meant anything to my beers that I can taste. I have heard that zero break is not great for yeast, but I haven't experienced an issues.


A hop-rocket is not really for 100% pellet hops plus recirculation. It's not fine enough. You'll want to fill the hop-back.

OK, that's enough for me. heheh... obviously I've had to troubleshoot and think about this a lot.
 
i got a question regarding the pait strainer bag.
does it hold pellets very well?

so far i have been running boiling wort through my therminator for like the last 5 min of the boil to sanitize then i turn off the flame and turn on the chilling water. i limit myself to only using whole hops in fear that pellets would go through my paint strainer bag and clog my therminator. should i be afraid?
problem is that its hard for me to get good whole hops where i live :/
:mug:
 
Definitely. Not totally, but totally worth doing it. My bottom drain doesn't really even get clogged, just dusted. The only thing that gets clogged occasionally is the screen gasket, so I might even decrease the mesh on the screen gasket to 16X16. Too bad they're so expensive.

So, in short. The bag is stopping like 95%.
 

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