Hops/Chugger Pump/Clogging

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Morrey

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I just added a whirlpool arm to my 10G kettle and have a chugger pump to create a vortex. My goal is to use this new system in my first NEIPA where there will be a total of 7 ounces of pellet hops in the wort. This doesn't include hops in the dry hop addition, but 7 oz of hops will be circulating thru the system. Is there a potential for clogging?

I considered using my hop spider for FWH and FO additions, would remove spider after steeping, then add the WP addition straight into the wort. This would reduce my free floating hops down to 3 ounces.

I semi-hesitate to use the spider at all due to at least some hop utilization loss. May I ask for suggestions of the best process to keep everything going efficiently?
 
Pellets should be ok. If your hops don't break down and fall apart you may suck a few big chunks into your system as you add them right at whirlpool. So use a little caution. I'd either add them a few min before you start the whirlpool so they break apart. Or I'd add them after you have a whirlpool going so they stay towards the center of the kettle.
 
You'll be fine. I routinely add large amounts of whirlpool hops on my 5g NEIPA batches. Just make sure the hops are not clumped together and sprinkle them in. That will give them enough time to break up in the hot wort before they get sucked into the pump. Whenever I dump my whirlpool hops in, there is an initial moment where the pump strains, but that lasts maybe 1 second and then it's back to normal. I have a chugger center inlet pump.
 
Pellets should be ok. If your hops don't break down and fall apart you may suck a few big chunks into your system as you add them right at whirlpool. So use a little caution. I'd either add them a few min before you start the whirlpool so they break apart. Or I'd add them after you have a whirlpool going so they stay towards the center of the kettle.

I think your ideas (both) are good ones. With this said, would you skip the spider and go with all 7 oz hops free swimming for max utilization?
 
You'll be fine. I routinely add large amounts of whirlpool hops on my 5g NEIPA batches. Just make sure the hops are not clumped together and sprinkle them in. That will give them enough time to break up in the hot wort before they get sucked into the pump. Whenever I dump my whirlpool hops in, there is an initial moment where the pump strains, but that lasts maybe 1 second and then it's back to normal. I have a chugger center inlet pump.


Great, my pump is identical to yours. I don't want to see something odd happen during the brew such as a clogged pump, hence my "homework" of asking questions to avoid surprises.

I did a test run with a typical post-boil volume of cool water to see the vortex action of my new system. All worked great, then I got the brilliant idea to see what a trub cone would look like so I threw in a handful of milled 2 row. As you are probably sitting there laughing at my test, chunks of grain almost immediately stopped up the dip tube. I cleared the obstruction with my finger (cool water) but you can easily see how I may be somewhat apprehensive. The pump did settle down immediately and formed a really tight cone of grain trub in the center. When I drained off the water, the cone stayed in the center. I know the hops and break material trub will be more "silty" and should move much more easily thru the tube and impeller. Just being cautious.
 
The pellets will definitely disintegrate in the hot wort.

What is the inner diameter of your diptube? I use this one: https://spikebrewing.com/collections/accessories/products/v3-pickup-tube-side?lshst=collection


I hate to admit, but I'm not 100% positive on my dip tube ID. Kettle is a 10G Blichmann G2 with standard 90 degree elbow dip tube, but never knew the exact ID measurement?

I know your dip tube is a larger ID and the drain time is quite rapid in comparison. Should also facilitate hop and trub movement thru the tube. A friend bought a Spike 10G and loves his.
 
That tube is nice and it will work in any 1/2" threaded coupling. Drain time is totally sick. Maybe 90 sec max. There's a fitting that threads into a 1/2" female coupling and then tube pushes into the fitting. And you can rotate it. What I do is have it rotated so the inlet near the surface of the wort during whirlpooling and chilling, then swing it down to once I'm trying to build my trub cone. Then when I transfer, I swing it so it's about horizontal. That way, I can hopefully limit the amount of trub it picks up.
 
'Worst case' scenario,

I too have a chugger pump (standard inlet), and the last batch I did i used the whirlpool arm on my immersion chiller. I added the chiller the last few minutes and began whirlpooling to sanitize the chiller and arm. At flame out (w/ pump still recirculating), I added my whirlpool hops (2 oz) and a had a cluster that didn't break part 'jam' the chugger's impeller. I flipped the switch off, then back on, and everything went on fine after that. I guess that cluster finally disintegrated in the hot wort.

I do have a hop spider, but have been lazy in not using for the last few batches. I've been in this "less brew gear to use, less brew gear to clean" mentality. I guess next time, I'll either use a hop spider or just make sure there's no clumps when dumping the hops to whirlpool.
 
If I dump my whirlpool hops in then they jam up in the feed line to the pump as the pellets get sucked into the line and rehydrate.

The solution is simple. Run the pump for a minute or two to get everything spinning, turn it off, add pellets then turn it back on after a minute or two
 
If I dump my whirlpool hops in then they jam up in the feed line to the pump as the pellets get sucked into the line and rehydrate.

The solution is simple. Run the pump for a minute or two to get everything spinning, turn it off, add pellets then turn it back on after a minute or two

I'll do this^^^^
 
I used to use a spider and a hop blocker in my blichmann. Once I switched to a whirlpool fitting I never used either again.

If I use whole leaf hops I just use a big biab mesh bag.
 
I used to use a spider and a hop blocker in my blichmann. Once I switched to a whirlpool fitting I never used either again.

If I use whole leaf hops I just use a big biab mesh bag.

With a NEIPA, I'll be doing two hop additions after heat is removed. The first FO addition, I'll start a vortex with pump and lines sanitized by hot wort.

I should still be around 190F so IC is sanitized adding it in at that temp. Bring down to 160F, whirlpool another hop addition...but I was going to remove my IC for a better vortex. But then after that final WP, I would need to sanitize (Star San) the IC for final cooling. Or do some simply leave the IC (mine is a JaDed Hydra) in place and don't worry about it?
 
With a NEIPA, I'll be doing two hop additions after heat is removed. The first FO addition, I'll start a vortex with pump and lines sanitized by hot wort.



I should still be around 190F so IC is sanitized adding it in at that temp. Bring down to 160F, whirlpool another hop addition...but I was going to remove my IC for a better vortex. But then after that final WP, I would need to sanitize (Star San) the IC for final cooling. Or do some simply leave the IC (mine is a JaDed Hydra) in place and don't worry about it?



You can do either but I'd just put the chiller in a bucket of Star San between chilling/whirlpools. I usually make a batch of PBW and starsan for a brew day.

You could just put it in a clean and sanitized bucket.

I store my ic dry in the empty star San bucket with a loose lid cut to fit the coil. If I'm lazy I'll just rest the chiller in the empty bucket between uses.
 
This will work^^.

I did some testing to see how the whirlpool action is impacted by a chiller in my kettle configuration. I used some grain husks to see how they reacted. I have two chillers.....a JaDed Hydra (its a bomb) and a $49 "starter" IC. The JaDed pretty well stops WP action as the coils are quite tight, but the cheap coil allows an almost normal WP vortex to form. I am developing a plan now to utilize them both at the right points during the process.

Another item I semi-overlooked is my Arbor Fab mesh hop basket. So I tried some husks in it and with the WP arm shooting directly on the side of the basket while it hangs on the kettle lip, and the grain husks swirled nicely meaning I have good movement thru the mesh. I am strongly considering using this basket (6" diameter x tall as the kettle) so hop trub issues are minimized. I honestly think whirl pooling right into the side of the mesh is going to work.

NEIPA this coming weekend, bought WY1318 and half a shopping bag of hops this weekend. $$ No wonder this brew has a premium price tag.
 
This will work^^.

I did some testing to see how the whirlpool action is impacted by a chiller in my kettle configuration. I used some grain husks to see how they reacted. I have two chillers.....a JaDed Hydra (its a bomb) and a $49 "starter" IC. The JaDed pretty well stops WP action as the coils are quite tight, but the cheap coil allows an almost normal WP vortex to form. I am developing a plan now to utilize them both at the right points during the process.

Another item I semi-overlooked is my Arbor Fab mesh hop basket. So I tried some husks in it and with the WP arm shooting directly on the side of the basket while it hangs on the kettle lip, and the grain husks swirled nicely meaning I have good movement thru the mesh. I am strongly considering using this basket (6" diameter x tall as the kettle) so hop trub issues are minimized. I honestly think whirl pooling right into the side of the mesh is going to work.

NEIPA this coming weekend, bought WY1318 and half a shopping bag of hops this weekend. $$ No wonder this brew has a premium price tag.


How'd the brew go with the new spider?
 
How'd the brew go with the new spider?

Well, mixed review. The hop basket is 6" diameter with 300 micron screen. It clogged with 7 oz of pellets and draining was a royal pita. I got seemly decent hop utilization but I expect some losses. My thoughts are that a 400 micron screen with an 8" diameter basket would allow more flow but the drawback is more hop trub will pass thru too. Still a work in progress......
 
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