Hopping in the keg for increased hop flave?

[PaisanMaisano]

So I recently did an ipa brew with some honey malt added and the honey malt took over the flave causing a distinct maltiness that makes this brew almost a milkshake. It's tasty, but I can only drink one and then it becomes too much.

Has anyone tried hopping in a keg to give more hop character that could bring this back into balance?

Or am I looking at dumping 5 gallons of beer or drinking one every day for the next two months to kick this keg??

 

[kevink]

I'm thinking of trying honey malt on my next brew. What percent did you use?

 

[AzOr]

Depending on your taste, honey malt can easily overpower a beer. I've used in wheats and blondes and never go over 4 oz per 5 gallons. Of course in an IPA that may differ but still be weary.

You might consider boiling a quart or two of water with some bittering hops and adding to your keg. I don't think dry hopping would cut the honey malt sweetness.

 

[yowzers]

Depending on your taste, honey malt can easily overpower a beer. I've used in wheats and blondes and never go over 4 oz per 5 gallons. Of course in an IPA that may differ but still be weary.

You might consider boiling a quart or two of water with some bittering hops and adding to your keg. I don't think dry hopping would cut the honey malt sweetness.

Do this, I've done it and it works to balance sweetness.

 

[RPh_Guy]

 

[IslandLizard]

Sure, keg hopping is done a lot. You need a roomy enough bag so the hops can swell and beer can freely permeate it to extract the hop oils. Put some weights in it (a stainless fitting or glass marbles) so it sinks. You can leave it on the bottom for the duration of the keg, or suspend with a piece of unflavored dental floss coming out along the lid opening, so you can retrieve it at some point, if that's what you want to do. Some lids have a tab welded on the bottom for that purpose.

Oxygen is the nemesis of beer, especially hoppy ones as they show signs of oxidation much faster.
You need to do everything you can to prevent air from going into that keg while adding the keg (dry) hops.

• Stream CO2 into the keg (through gas post) while removing the lid (open the PRV first) and while working with the open keg, so air can't get in.
• Have the "pre-purged" mesh bag with hops ready to be dropped in. Roll it up, so there are no huge air pockets.
• Work fast and diligently. Once you drop the bag in, the beer will start to foam up, so be ready to remount the lid quickly.
• Purge the headspace at least 5x at 20-30 psi, to reduce/remove any air that may have gotten in.

If your keg is free of sludge you can agitate (swirling, shaking, rocking, etc.) to help with faster and more thorough hop extraction. Some fine dust may come out and give you a bit of a hop bite for a few days until it settles; it comes out with the first few pours. If you want to agitate and there's settlement in the keg, it's best to jump the clear beer into another keg before adding the keg hops.

How much Honey malt did you use?
Are you sure it's just the honey malt?

Recipe, perhaps? OG and FG?

 

[PaisanMaisano]

It was a NEIPA that I developed from other recipes that I've made. Only real difference was the honey malt at 8oz. per 5 gallon batch or 3% of grain bill.

13 lbs 2 row 80%
2 lbs oats 12%
1/2 lb honey malt 3%
1 lb corn sugar 5%

cal chlor 200 ppm
gypsum 100 ppm

warrior 15 mins boil
amarillo hopstand 180deg
cascade hopstand 180 deg
mosaic hopstand 180 deg
double dry hopped with amarillo, cascade, and mosaic 7 days and 4 days.
IMP juice yeast

OG 1.076
FG 1.022

abv 7.2%

All other NEIPAs I've made have been solid. Like I said only difference really has been the honey malt. I think if I drop it to 4 oz next time it'd be spot on. Like I said, it's drinkable but no where near any of my other NEIPAs I've made.

 

[PaisanMaisano]

Depending on your taste, honey malt can easily overpower a beer. I've used in wheats and blondes and never go over 4 oz per 5 gallons. Of course in an IPA that may differ but still be weary.

You might consider boiling a quart or two of water with some bittering hops and adding to your keg. I don't think dry hopping would cut the honey malt sweetness.

Thanks for this! Sounds like a doable rectification.

 

[PaisanMaisano]

I'm thinking of trying honey malt on my next brew. What percent did you use?

8 oz or 3% of grain bill. I'm dropping it to 4oz next time. 8 was too much IMHO.

 

[kevink]

Did your other beers finish at 1.022? That is pretty high. Are you sure it completely fermented out? What was your mash temp?

 

[PaisanMaisano]

I've had one finish at .019, another at .015, and another at .021. All were perfect compared to this one. Like I said, the big difference I can only attribute to the honey malt. But then again, it's brewing!!

 

[danielthemaniel]

I keg hop when I feel the beer didnt have as much happiness as I intended. It's a fail safe of sorts for hoppy beers. I use hosiery socks to hold the hops. I've noticed the first few days of adding hops to the keg gives a strong hop burn but it mellows after that.

 

[PaisanMaisano]

Depending on your taste, honey malt can easily overpower a beer. I've used in wheats and blondes and never go over 4 oz per 5 gallons. Of course in an IPA that may differ but still be weary.

You might consider boiling a quart or two of water with some bittering hops and adding to your keg. I don't think dry hopping would cut the honey malt sweetness.

I took your advice and boiled 1 oz of waimea in 1 quart of water. Added and it balanced it perfectly! It now has a perfect peachy NEIPA flave! Thanks for the input!!

 

[AzOr]

Looks delicious! Btw- I like your NB glass.