Hop pellets and muslin bags?

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chungking

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Does this work? Pros and cons? Trying to strain all the hop pellet matter out of the wort while pouring into the fermenter is a pain in the butt, especially when your strainer get clogged with all the gunk...
 
I don't bag my hops, but you certainly could if you'd like. Just make sure they are very loose in the bag, so they can be in full contact with the wort, and not packed tightly into the bag. Use two bags if you need to, in order to have them loose.

I don't filter/strain either, but I can imagine that would be a pain for those who do!
 
you can bag them if its easier, it won't hurt anything.

I don't strain them out when transferring to the fermentor.
 
Yooper said:
I don't bag my hops ::: I don't filter/strain either, but I can imagine that would be a pain for those who do!

amandabab said:
I don't strain them out when transferring to the fermentor.

This is real interesting! So how does that affect your clarity? Do the hops particles just fall out if suspension like the yeast and proteins and stuff? I would love to not have to bag my hops pellets just for maximum utilizations sake but I also am trying to get the clearest beer I can without going the 5-micron filter route.
 
When I got started, I was using hop bags and while it contained most of the large material, the fine stuff was still floating around in the wort. I did a batch without bags and poured all the hop debris into the fermenter. As long as I don't rack that junk into my kegs, my beer is just as clear as it was when I used bags.
 
This is real interesting! So how does that affect your clarity? Do the hops particles just fall out if suspension like the yeast and proteins and stuff?

It doesn't affect clarity at all. Time and gravity takes care of it.
 
Sweeeet! I'm glad I know this now! One other question (which hopefully will help the OP too) do you think that you lose a significantly higher amount if finished beer with the significantly thicker troub layer you must get (if what's left in my hop bag is any sign) by not bagging?
 
I use fine nylon bags and strain out trub going into the fermenter. Neither are necessary, as the trub will settle out. Most people prefer some type of straining, though.
 
Yep i personally find using hops bags harder than just siphoning the wort off the debris/break when im transferring to the fermenter. I always let some break/hops get into the fermenter for sure though, put a little hair on the yeasts' chest... seriously though, having some is good for the yeast.
 
You could always put something in the bag with the hops to give it more space for wort to flow through...like marbles. It will of course make the bag sink...I do this for dry hopping
 
Sweeeet! I'm glad I know this now! One other question (which hopefully will help the OP too) do you think that you lose a significantly higher amount if finished beer with the significantly thicker troub layer you must get (if what's left in my hop bag is any sign) by not bagging?

No. The pellets disintegrate and fall out with the trub. I've never "lost" any beer at all. With whole flower hops, they seem to suck up some wort/beer but even then it's not that much.

As far as clarity in the finished beer, here is an IPA (with lots of hops!):

dscf0552-22709.jpg
 
And you don't filter? Damn Yoop, looks wicked bright and tasty...ok ok, I'm converted! My next batch is going to be sans muslin for sure!

Thanks!
 
And you don't filter? Damn Yoop, looks wicked bright and tasty...ok ok, I'm converted! My next batch is going to be sans muslin for sure!

Thanks!

ha- no filtering and no finings either!

Well, I use whirlfloc in the kettle, but never gelatin or other finings as I want a vegetarian friendly beer.

For clear beer, a good hot break and a good cold break is all that I've really ever needed.
 
We always use bags. We like the hop flavor of our beers (as well as the bitterness). It is really a matter of your taste. If you have not been using bags, I would not think there would be a great difference in bitterness, flavor or aroma. If you like a real hoppy beer, use a hop rocket or a different hop back with leaf hops. WOW!
 
in the interest of not completely threadjacking the OP I'm going to go look up hot and cold breaks so I remember which one isn't the one I do with my wort chiller...
 
So don't filter the hops out? I think I read somewhere that this would make the beer way more bitter if the hop pellets were dumped into the fermenter. Do you have to wait longer for everything to settle in the primary, or is it typically the same time. My first batch I didn't strain out the pellets, and it was a pretty bitter amber ale. But I I didn't mind that much. Seems like its way easier to not strain them!
 
Well it cant get more bitter in the traditional hop sense because boiling is required for AA isomerization. It may taste bitter if you draw a sample off from that trub/hop debris on the bottom of the fermenter though (I have tried it). Everything will fall out fairly quickly... look at how fast it happens while you are cooling the wort.
 
By using hop sacks for pellets & grain sacks for raw hops,& straining into the FV,I get only about 3/8" of trub on average in primary. I think these things just make it easier to get more clear beer Racked over to the bottling bucket before getting down to the compacted trub.
 
My pellet hop bag is getting really, REALLY green! But it still serves to contain the bits of hops from the pellets. I don't find emptying it out a problem at all. I just loosen the drawstring, turn the bag inside out and rinse the used hops down the garbage disposal.

glenn514:mug:
 
I use a method that gets my hop/grain sacks white again. Empty,rinse under the faucet inside out. Then I place them in a small saucepan of boiling water for 10 minutes or so to loosen the stains.
I then place them in a tupperware sandwich container covered with PBW & a tight lid. Allow to soak until they visibly whiten. Rinse out & hang to dry before storing.
 
Never used a bag for any type of hops(except dry hopping)...whole hops i just pour my wort through a strainer on my bucket, helps aerate anyways....pellet hops i just let settle out with the trub...
 
I'm going to try not bagging hoping that my late addition hops give up more of their aromatics to the beer as things progress. I know that the AA/IBU's require heat to do their do but the aroma does not, so hopefully anything added post 30 minutes will keep on giving to the mix until I go to secondary (yes I secondary) where they will get a whole new hop addition while they dry hop for 3-6 weeks
 
Very interested in yoopers method.

I am assuming you get no grassiness from the all of the hop trub in the fermentor? Like you would if you left dry hops in for to long?
 
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