Hop Additions Timeline?

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jdlev

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I understand hops on a basic level. Add them to the start of the boil to get bitterness in your beer. Add them to the last 10 min of your boil for aroma - or dry hop for aroma.

I don't understand the benefits of hops step additionals. For instance, in the SMaSH thread, you see the addition of fuggles at 60min, 45min, 30min, 15min, etc.

How does adding hops in steps instead of at the beginning or end change the character of the beer for the better?
 
you need additions that will be less bitter (45),then flavor additions starting at 30,or 25. Then20,10,& -10 (steep at flame out). So,basically you do bittering,then flavor,then aroma.:mug:
 
Think of hops as doing 3 things vs. 2...Bitter, flavor and aroma. The longer they are boiled up to 90 minutes the more bitterness is extracted and the other 2 things are lost. Once you get into the 45-10 It is more flavor on the same kind of sliding scale. anything under 10 minutes is aroma.

Dry hopping is mostly for aroma but alcohol will leech flavor and a small amount of bitterness out.

Then there are those that mash hop. This is adding in hops into the mash, I assume for extra bittering power. I have not done this...yet.

DISCLAIMER: These times seem to be the subject of great debates. I am not versed enough to explain much beyond what I already have. I would also give my times a +/- of 5 minutes just to CMA. ;)
 
basically the sooner you add it to flame out the more aroma you get, like if you want an IIPA, you can't just add them at the beginning and some right at the end, you have to add them throughout because the recations and the AA% will be different.. HTH..although im' sure someone else will chime in that can explain it better :)
 
Imo,you don't want to add hops constantly from beginning to end in an IPA. You want some bittering,but malt flavor to shine through a bit too. Think DFH. then start flavor/aroma additions at 25 or 30 minutes. Then dry hop.
 
Hops boiled for more than 30 mins add little flavor or aroma, just bitterness. Hops boiled for 10-25 mins generally add mostly flavor and only a little aroma and bitterness. Hops boiled for under ten mins and mostly aroma with very little flavor or bitterness added.
Do a search in this site, I know there's at least one thread with a hop boil time chart that shows this as a graph.
 
Imo,you don't want to add hops constantly from beginning to end in an IPA. You want some bittering,but malt flavor to shine through a bit too. Think DFH. then start flavor/aroma additions at 25 or 30 minutes. Then dry hop.

Uh... Isn't it Dogfishhead that has continuous hopping for the 60, 90, and 120 IPA?
 
This is very anti-convention, but I have really gotten away from the 60/30/0 thing. I know that the magic formulas we use show that bittering changes minute by minute, but personally, I find the sir-hops-a-lot approach a little silly. I honestly think the DFH hop regiment is just as much a marketing thing as it is a quality thing.

I lean very heavy on aggressively hopped beers, so this certainly doesn't apply for something like a Pilsner or English Mild, but I just stick with a bittering addition after hot break (60), maybe a "flavor" addition around 15, and almost always a second flavor addition at zero. Yes, you read that right - flavor at zero.

I say that for 2 reasons. First of all, no matter how quickly you cool your wort, there is continued utilization even after flameout. I have read that utilization continues anywhere above 190F. Personally, I use a hot whirlpool post boil, so I purposely extend that utilization period for about 20 minutes once the violent boil has stopped. Secondly, no matter how quickly you cool your wort, a lot of the aroma from those late additions is blown off during fermentation.

For those two reasons, if I want aroma, I get it from a short-timed, heavy-handed, dry hop (5 day max) right before packaging. If it is aroma you are after, I think the best place to get it is post fermentation, during a quick dry hop at fermentation temps (65-70F).

I understand that goes against the bitterness/flavor/aroma boil procedure that many people talk about, but it has worked very well for me.

One last disclaimer; my procedure is not a good starting point for beginners. So for someone starting out, stick to the 60/30/0 thing until you feel comfortable with how the different additions effect the final product.

Joe
 
jfowler1 said:
This is very anti-convention, but I have really gotten away from the 60/30/0 thing. I know that the magic formulas we use show that bittering changes minute by minute, but personally, I find the sir-hops-a-lot approach a little silly. I honestly think the DFH hop regiment is just as much a marketing thing as it is a quality thing.

I lean very heavy on aggressively hopped beers, so this certainly doesn't apply for something like a Pilsner or English Mild, but I just stick with a bittering addition after hot break (60), maybe a "flavor" addition around 15, and almost always a second flavor addition at zero. Yes, you read that right - flavor at zero.

I say that for 2 reasons. First of all, no matter how quickly you cool your wort, there is continued utilization even after flameout. I have read that utilization continues anywhere above 190F. Personally, I use a hot whirlpool post boil, so I purposely extend that utilization period for about 20 minutes once the violent boil has stopped. Secondly, no matter how quickly you cool your wort, a lot of the aroma from those late additions is blown off during fermentation.

For those two reasons, if I want aroma, I get it from a short-timed, heavy-handed, dry hop (5 day max) right before packaging. If it is aroma you are after, I think the best place to get it is post fermentation, during a quick dry hop at fermentation temps (65-70F).

I understand that goes against the bitterness/flavor/aroma boil procedure that many people talk about, but it has worked very well for me.

One last disclaimer; my procedure is not a good starting point for beginners. So for someone starting out, stick to the 60/30/0 thing until you feel comfortable with how the different additions effect the final product.

Joe

I don't see that has "going away from" 60/30/0, but growing from it as you lock down your process, and that's what brewing for a while will do. I'm sure every experienced brewer here does things differently, because they've figured out how their process works and influences the outcome. I was listening to a BN show the other day (It was one of the recent Downtown Joe's Sunday Session) and Colin was talking about the order in which it is best to "learn" the whole art of brewing. Recipe was not one of the top/first points to master.
 
I have to go along with that. Experience is the best teacher. Reading up on a given aspect of brewing to get the gist of it is just the beginning. You have to learn what works or doesn't for you.
Regardless of style of brewing.
 
I don't really have the experience to back it up but I only add hops at 60m and 20m or under. Assuming the hop utilization chart is correct(yes, ass u me), I would say that hop additions after 60m or before 20m are wasted hops. I would think you could achieve better utilization by splitting a 30m addition. Some back to 60m and some to 20m. You might even be able to use less hops.

I like to add hops at 0.5oz/60m, 1.5oz/15m, 1.5oz/5m, and 1oz/2m depending on the AA% of course. Then dry hop for about a week. Like I said, I don't have the experience but this usually gives me a lot of hop flavor with not much bitterness.
 
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