Homemade Mash/Lauter Tun question

[St. Jon's Wort]

I have looked around online and have seen several different methods of producing a homemade MLT from a 48qt rubbermaid cooler. Most of what I saw seemed to be one of two methods, method 1.) using a ball valve and fittings and a stainless steel hose braid clamped down onto a barb fitting and method 2.) creating a manifold from copper tubing utilizing the same ball valve and fittings as the previous method.

My question is, which method is better? Method one seems to be FAR simpler (and cheaper) but does it's simplicity mask unreliability as compared to the other method or are both methods similar in function and result? I want to build something that will last me a while and will not need upgrading for the forseeable future.

Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[KYB]

From what I've seen it's all preference. Some people have problems with one, but not the other, and vice versa. I've been using the SS braided line and have had zero problems. Drains like a champ every time. I did an American Wheat with no rice hulls and after sparging for a bit I opened the valve completely to test it, and it drained as fast as normal. I've done 10 batches on it. That's my experience at least.

 

[Bobby_M]

Try the braid for $4 and see if you like it.

 

[Beer_Maker]

From what I understand, the braid is more suited for batch sparging and the the manifold will work for both (batch and fly).

I made my manifold out of CPVC and it works great.

$0.02

 

[Bobby_M]

I'd also say that a 48 quart cooler is already a bit more suited for batch sparging especially for 5 gallon batches due to the more shallow grain bed.

 

[rico567]

In brewing, I've tried to be guided by the K.I.S.S. principle since I started. Strictly plastic buckets, cheap SS brewpot, carboys, 12 oz. bottles, generic caps. When I went AG, pretty much the same- 10 gal. Rubbermaid cooler, Bargain Fittings conversion kit with braid. It all works very well, and I've yet to read a convincing argument about why I should mash / sparge any other way.

 

[St. Jon's Wort]

From what I understand, the braid is more suited for batch sparging and the the manifold will work for both (batch and fly).

I made my manifold out of CPVC and it works great.

$0.02

Just out of curiosity, why would you not be able to fly sparge with the SS braid method? I don't see how it will work with a copper manifold but not with the braid as both methods seem to accomplish the same effect.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Just out of curiosity, why would you not be able to fly sparge with the SS braid method? I don't see how it will work with a copper manifold but not with the braid as both methods seem to accomplish the same effect.

Typically, a braid will be just one length of braid on the bottom of the cooler and will not cover the entire bottom of the cooler. A manifold will be a network of piping and cover the emtire bottom of the tun / cooler. In fly sparging where the grain is continually rinsed, it is important for all the grain to be exposed to the same flow of rinsing water to adequately rinse all the grain.

What may happen if one were to fly sparge w/ a single braid, is that the sparge water would find a direct path to the braid and not rinse the entire grain bed, this is called channeling and will give a poor yield. With batch sparging, it is not improtant how the tun drains, just that it drains because the grain is stirred after each addition, or "batch" of sparge water.

All this being said, IMO a first timer is better off w/ a simple braid and batch sparging. After a few batches, build a manifold if you want to play w/ fly sparging, but lots of us just stick to batching.

see link below for a very simple, cheap and effective batch sparger:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/ten-minute-cooler-mash-tun-conversion-125108/#post1394902

 

[Beer_Maker]

All this being said, IMO a first timer is better off w/ a simple braid and batch sparging. After a few batches, build a manifold if you want to play w/ fly sparging, but lots of us just stick to batching.[/url]

I tend to disagree. My first AG batch was done with a fly sparge, and I'd say that it turned out much better than when I tried to do the same beer with a batch sparge.

I will say that batch sparging is easier, but your efficiency is probably going to suffer a couple points though.

 

[wilserbrewer]

I tend to disagree.

Just MO, that's all...and the beat goes on....

I will say that batch sparging is easier, but your efficiency is probably going to suffer a couple points though.

Perhaps this is true for a perfect fly sparge, but for a newb first timer w/ new unfamiliar equipment, I feel there is greater risk of botching a fly sparge and winding up w/ low efficiency. Batch sparging if done properly can certainly produce very good and acceptable efficiency.

Props to you for achieving such stellar results your first time fly sparging.

 

[Bobby_M]

I agree with wilserbrewer 100% on this. Anyone can be a good brewer with either of the methods but there is no guarentee that they will perform either method optimally the first time they do it. If a brewer has better results with one over the other, they will usually stick to the "better" one and call it a day. It doesn't make that method objectively better for anyone but that brewer.