No, that wouldn't do it IMO. Sugar mixed at a 50/50 ratio like Prohibition homebrew might. A combination of residual sugars, phenolics and assorted off flavors are the classic combination of bad homebrew. The residual sugars usually stem from the use of liquid extract and the nasty flavors can almost always be traced back to sanitation or fermentation problems.I wonder if that 1 pound of candi sugar is giving him the dreaded extract twang... ie cider taste.
If he can't make acceptable extract beer, theres absolutely no way he'll make good AG beer. There will just be more variables, and he'll be further away from knowing what the problem is.SWITCH TO ALL GRAIN. Seriously your beers turn out way better. Extract brewing is too limiting.
Totally agree! That is the reason I joined HBT: to get better at the extract before jumping into the deep end. I am very optimistic that with the advice I've received on these posts, as well as the internalizing that I've done, I can produce a good beer out of a prescribed and proven recipe.If he can't make acceptable extract beer, theres absolutely no way he'll make good AG beer. There will just be more variables, and he'll be further away from knowing what the problem is.
A packet of dry yeast has roughly the correct yeast count for a full 5 gallon batch. A tube of White Labs or a Wyeast smack pack does not. Thus the starter. You don't need a starter with dry yeast.it has recently dawned on me that my first batch was fermented with a packet of DRY YEAST! Ah simplicity, or perhaps I just had simpler taste back then.
Not quite. It takes me 4 to 4.5 hours total including setup and cleanup. I do single infusion and batch sparge. I'm sure other processes can take more time, but AG doesn't need to be very time consuming. I even have time to do other things while waiting for the mash.I am guessing going AG would add an extra two to three hours to the brew process.
My brother in-law uses it, and it seems way more convenient. I'll get some and give it a try next time.I've seen more than one person on here have off flavors due to iodophor (myself included). Its worth a try to switch to starsan.
I know exactly what you mean. My process was refined (understatement) throughout 14 batches of bad beer until I finally switched sanitizers. Granted I was using the farm supply variety iodophor which might of had something to do with it. Anyways no problem since, and on the plus side I'm making damn fine beer thanks to all that "refinement".My brother in-law uses it, and it seems way more convenient. I'll get some and give it a try next time.
Wouldn't it be a kick in the balls if i go through all this process improvement, the batch turns out crappy, then I switch to star-san and my home-brew tastes go away?! I guess if nothing else, my process is refined...
Thanks for the tip.
Thanks, I've learned so much from this forum that it will be difficult to tell which modification caused the improvement (I'm hoping there is a significant improvement to speak of.)i don't know what you were using for LME before you got the NB kit, but I think you will notice a difference with the NB. when i was doing extract the syrup from NB was good stuff and my attenuation was always better than using other LME's. good luck.
I can only hope that this batch of beer wantsto be better. It's like, yeah man, I want to strive to be a great beer. And I'm all, yeah man I want you to be great so I can drink you man...Maaannnn.... Don't let the winds of popular thought blow your individuality and cognitive sense of reason out the window. Do what's right for you man. I like your beer just the way it is. Let your beer speak to us in whatever language it wants to. If your beer doesnt taste the way you want, maybe your tastes are off.
American interpretive hippie meaning: Your brew be bitchin, chill.
-Thats for the crazy German thingy you pulled a page back!
Search autolysis if you want to spend the evening reading. Under 6 months and you are probably OK leaving the fermenter alone. I can't imagine leaving a beer on the lees for 6 months myself.Liar Liar, I did not rack into the secondary tonight, I chose to drink beer with friends. Torpedo Extra IPA, thanks for asking. I did go to the local brew store and get some more tubing for siphoning/blowoff, a weldless thermometer for my mash-tun (under construction), and some of those neat orange caps for my carbuoys. You know the ones you stick your racking cane in the top hole and blow CO2 in the smaller hole and it starts the siphon for you?
Maybe I'll rack to the secondary tomorrow. With all I've learned in the last 3 weeks from this post, I have a hard time getting in a big hot dither to get my wort of the trub like I used to. I'd be interested to hear other opinions on the point of diminishing returns when it comes to "length on the trub"...thoughts??
Where's the harm in blowing CO2 to start the siphon? Not argumentative, just inquisitive. I was under the impression that using CO2 negates the possibility of contamination, although I have heard some start by physically "blowing" into the tube. That technique does seem dangerous to me.Personally I would never blow into my wort for any reason. You could probably suck on the destination carboy cap though.