Highest OG yeast can Handle

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

DocDriza

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2014
Messages
187
Reaction score
16
I am looking to make a specialty beer that has an estimated OG of 1.107. I understand that WL yeast rates the yeast for if high, medium, or low ABV. The question I have is, even though a yeast is rated for high ABV, how high is high? Will a WLP 500, 545, or 550 work? I plan on doing a starter with the shake method. I don't have a sir plate I yet. It possible to over pitch with these strains? Should I over pitch just to be safe?

Thanks in advance.
 
Those yeasts you mentioned should ferment a 1.007 beer. Its not necessary to overpitch but I would make sure your yeast is healthy, has plenty of nutrients, and has plenty of oxygen.
 
One easy way to Oxygenate a high gravity beer without Oxygen is:
1 - do the shake method at the start
2 - at 12 hours in, take a sanitized stirring spoon, vigorously stir up the beer for a couple of minutes to release dissolved CO2. Then put the led/stopper back and shake again for a minute to reoxygenate the wort.

The yeast will quickly scavenge the newly introduced O2 and you will not have any risk of Oxidized beer in a high gravity beer this early in the fermentation.


The other thing I suggest is using the Wyeast Nutrient (added during the boil).


Stir plates are cool ;-)
I have 2. :)
 
The other thing I suggest is using the Wyeast Nutrient (added during the boil).


Stir plates are cool ;-)
I have 2. :)

Any suggestions on how much to use on the yeast nutrient? I forgot about that.

My flask and stir bar are on their way. I'm almost done with the stir pate itself. Trying to find something that will absorb the vibrations from my fan.
 
Any suggestions on how much to use on the yeast nutrient? I forgot about that.

My flask and stir bar are on their way. I'm almost done with the stir pate itself. Trying to find something that will absorb the vibrations from my fan.

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/wyeast-yeast-nutrient-1-5-oz.html

Half a teaspoon - comes out to 15 cents per 5 gallons. Just add it 10 minutes before the end of the boil. Stir it in.

For high gravity beers I think it's important to give the Oxygen and the nutrient. To get a complete fermentation.
 
Does your recipe have any simple sugars in it? If it has a pound or more, you may want to consider not adding those to the boil. You can dissolve them in a little water and add them when fermentation is nearly complete.

The Belgian yeasts you mentioned should perform well on high gravity brews, but if you're going to worry about it you can take the additional step above to possibly eeek out a few additional gravity points at the end. What sort of FG are you aiming for?
 
Does your recipe have any simple sugars in it? If it has a pound or more, you may want to consider not adding those to the boil. You can dissolve them in a little water and add them when fermentation is nearly complete.

The Belgian yeasts you mentioned should perform well on high gravity brews, but if you're going to worry about it you can take the additional step above to possibly eeek out a few additional gravity points at the end. What sort of FG are you aiming for?

I'm looking it get it to 1.027. Last time it only got to 1.050, and still hasn't conditioned after 6 months. I think the yeast died out.
 
That's a 10.5% beer. Most Belgian yeasts can handle that. Use the tips above and you shoLd be fine.

Find yourself some dry champagne yeast and add a quarter pack into your bottling bucket as you rack your beer. This will ensure you have healthy enough yeast to carb your bottles. it especially helps on high abv beers that condition in a secondary for a month or more.
 
Use the rest of the champagne yeast on your last beer that didn't condition. Pry each lid up, sprinkle a few grains in the bottle and recap. Place them in a Rubbermaid container in case there's a lot of simple sugars for the champagne yeast to eat up
 
What do you think about using clear candi sugar at high Krausen? You think that will get me anything. Since this is supposed to be an Imperial Pumpkin Pie, sweetness isnt too much of an issue for me.
 
I always do late sugar additions - I just like the idea that the yeast get active again.

It wouldn't be a bad idea to slightly overpitch, maybe by 20%. You could probably double the pitch and it'd still be fine, and would ensure you get a thorough fermentation
 
What do you think about using clear candi sugar at high Krausen? You think that will get me anything. Since this is supposed to be an Imperial Pumpkin Pie, sweetness isnt too much of an issue for me.

What do your fermentables look like?

Candi sugar won't give you sweetness. It will dry out your beer. If you want sweetness, use something like lactose which won't ferment. Molasses or brown sugar would work in a pumpkin and help with sweetness, or at least perceived sweetness.

One tip. Clear candi sugar is nothing more than beet sugar. Plain white table sugar will give you virtually the same results.
 
This is something I can add when to my starter correct? If i can, which is better to do, add it to the starter or to the boil?

You can add it to starter, but you will need less, since it's a much smaller volume. I'd use 1/8 of a teaspoon or evenless
 
For those that care, my yeast starter came out awesome. I added nutrient in the starter and in the boil just to ensure yeast health. Measured OG came pretty close to the estimated. 1.104 and 1.107 respectively. I totally understand why you would want a yeast starter now. Noticeable fermentation seemed to happen sooner. Thanks for the help guys.
 
Back
Top