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BTW, I always thought 'down under' referred to only Australia...didn't realize it could be you Kiwis too!
That's because you've lived a life too sheltered by Uncle Sam and his media haemorrhoids.....
i hope i was reading the hydrometer right !
put 14lbs into 4 gal, G was around 1.070. put around another 4-6lb in to get it to 1.090-1.095. could simply be the scales are crap.
You may need to define the "gallons" tweake, a lot of the forums are US based and they automatically take "galllon" as 3.78 litres/US gallon, rather than the one that was "originally invented" by us i.e. the imperial gallon/4.55 litres.
With "normal" honey, I'd originally use between 3 and 3.5lb per imp gallon, but these days I follow the hydrometer readings.
EC-1118 is a yeast I used when I first started as that's what was advised by the local HBS. The problem I find with it, is that it's prone to blowing a lot of aroma (and seemingly flavour) straight out the airlock (these days I tend to keep a stock of K1V-1116 and D21 - the K1V will probably be easier to get and does good things with honey........)
You'll also probably find that because it's such a vicious ferment, it will ferment your mead dry - oh, and if you take another look around the bazaars, at staggered nutrient addition, it seems that the majority will use 2 stages (unless you're talking those mad as hell vvv high gravity/honey Polish meads) i.e. they'll rehydrate the yeast with GoFerm (a nutrient specifically designed for rehydration), then after the pitch, they'll wait until there's definite fermentation activity, indicating that the "lag phase" has finished, then pitch the first part of the nutrient, ferment to the 1/3rd sugar break and add the rest of the nutrient calculation.
Then, if it seems that the ferment slows down too much, people won't add nutrient/energiser mixes as after the 1/3 to 1/2 sugar breaks, the yeast doesn't assimilate inorganic nitrogen, so they use yeast hulls or even just a teaspoon of bread yeast that's been boiled in a little water and cooled (that's what I do - UK doesn't have quite the range of materials that the US has).
I'd guess that you'd be wanting to keep an eye on your gravity readings, and make the nutrient (I'll stick to that term as tronozymol is a "complete" nutrient with nutrient and energiser/DAP) additions after pitch, then 1/4 and 1/2 sugar breaks if you want to specifically do the SNA in 3 stages.....
I'd think that the burnt and normal honey mix should give you an approximation of a Bochet mead.
Of course, you might find that you'll have to back sweeten though as the yeast should ferment dry and you might experience an "alcohol hot" type taste - which isn't a problem, it just needs to be either aged out of the brew or covered/masked with back sweetening and possibly a little bit of acid addition at the end....
Good on yer for making use of what might seem to be "waste". A Bochet is something I haven't tried yet, but is definitely on my "to do" list.
regards
fatbloke
p.s. Your in NZ, so if it really did turn out crap, you can always just distil it and then just mix it with half a pack of oak chips and store it for a 12 month. He he! Honey Brandy
p.p.s I've got tronozymol here as well, but I've moved over to using the Lalvin nutrients (GoFerm and FermaidK) and DAP (di-ammonium phosphate) because Lalvin/Lallemand provide extensive data and it make working out nutrient requirements so much easier - yes I do have to mail order it from the US, but find it's worth the effort.....