Help: Time for GFI Protection

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NWMushroom

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I've been using the eBIAB system from High Gravity Brewing for a few months now:

http://www.highgravitybrew.com/productcart/pc/BIAB-Electric-Brewing-System-p3987.htm

It's fitted with the 3 wire crowfoot plug which I plug directly into my dryer socket.

I have the old crowfoot socket for the dryer which is on a circuit with a 40a breaker:



I can't change any of the wiring or outlets as I rent.

Now, I want to make things safer by adding GFI protection by using a spa panel.

First, I'll be getting High Gravity Brewing to replace my 3-wire plug controller with a 4-wire plug (NEMA 14-30P) controller.

I need help with the next stage of the plan.

My impression is, I can buy:

This cord to run from the dryer socket to the spa panel:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VU1KC6/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

(Or should I be using this and buying separate cord?):

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003X4UP9Q/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

This spa panel (is there a better one to get from HD?):

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Midwest-...el-Disconnect-with-GFI-UG412RMW250P/100686230

This plug for the GFI protected spa panel 'out':

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...le-Power-Outlet-Black-R50-00278-000/202066680

Based on P-J's diagram for 3 wire to 4 wire GFI protection through a spa panel:



What wire do I get to connect the terminals inside the spa panel? Is this the stuff?

http://constructionsupplycentral.co...southwire-10-3-300v-power-cord-black-lft.html

Basically, I want to know if I'm going in the right direction here. I need to stop brewing on the seat of my pants and get some safety involved.

Thanks for any advice/help.
 
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jeffmeh

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If you have a 40a breaker protecting the circuit, all of your components should be rated for 40a or above. Either of your first two links would be fine, as they are rated for 50a, as is the spa panel. The receptacle you linked is only rated to 30a, so you will need something with a higher rating. You may as well go for a 50a rating on the whole run, which would mean 6awg copper wire.

The other issue is whether your controller has any type of circuit protection, as it is spec'd for 30a and likely uses a 10awg power line. If they have a 30a circuit breaker or fuse in the controller, then you will be fine. If not, you should provide one by making it fit in the spa panel. If you do that then you can drop to 30a rated components downstream.
 
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NWMushroom

NWMushroom

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Thanks for the assistance.

I just checked the dryer specs and it says that it only draws 23 amps, so would I be right in assuming I can replace the 40a breaker protecting the circuit the dryer is on with a 30a breaker? The dryer is the only appliance on that circuit.

The controller doesn't have any circuit protection, but if I replace the 40a breaker with a 30a breaker I believe I can run everything with the lower gauge rating, correct?

As for the copper wire for wiring the spa panel, I would need 10 gauge, right? Is this the stuff:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SOUTHWIRE-COMPANY-Building-Wire-4WYY4?Pid=search

Is it good practice to use different color wire for each connection in the spa panel?
 

jeffmeh

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Thanks for the assistance.

I just checked the dryer specs and it says that it only draws 23 amps, so would I be right in assuming I can replace the 40a breaker protecting the circuit the dryer is on with a 30a breaker? The dryer is the only appliance on that circuit.

The controller doesn't have any circuit protection, but if I replace the 40a breaker with a 30a breaker I believe I can run everything with the lower gauge rating, correct?

As for the copper wire for wiring the spa panel, I would need 10 gauge, right? Is this the stuff:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SOUTHWIRE-COMPANY-Building-Wire-4WYY4?Pid=search

Is it good practice to use different color wire for each connection in the spa panel?
You are quite welcome.

Yes, replace with a 30a breaker, and you can run 10awg for everything. I would probably also replace the receptacle with a NEMA 10-30 one, so it is obvious that you have limited it to 30a.

For wiring, I would suggest running 10/4 as your power in to the spa panel, even though you will not be using the ground wire. That way, if you ever have a location with a true ground, you can change the plug and rewire the spa panel with 4-in and get the benefit of the true ground. Something like this will work. http://www.wireandcabletogo.com/Por...SOOW/10-4-SOOW-Portable-Cord-600V-UL-CSA.html

You can also poach some wiring from that cable to use in your spa panel. Good practice is to use standard colors for the wiring: H1-black, H2-red, N-white, G-green.
 
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NWMushroom

NWMushroom

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Thanks again for your help!

Is it recommended to use crimp-on ring terminals when connecting everything up?

If I am running 10/4 as the power into my spa panel, what do I do with the ground wire when connecting the plug (and when connecting it to the spa panel)? Just leave it lose and unconnected?

Trying to get my shopping list together. Since I'll be using 10awg for everything, I am assuming I should get this:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003X4UP9Q/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Instead of this (due to the gauge):

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VU1KC6/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

For the run from the dryer receptacle to the spa panel? Correct?

You've been really helpful - and who knows, maybe a life saver!
 
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jeffmeh

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Thanks again for your help!

Is it recommended to use crimp-on ring terminals when connecting everything up?

If I am running 10/4 as the power into my spa panel, what do I do with the ground wire when connecting the plug (and when connecting it to the spa panel)? Just leave it lose and unconnected?

Trying to get my shopping list together. Since I'll be using 10awg for everything, I am assuming I should get this:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003X4UP9Q/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Instead of this (due to the gauge):

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VU1KC6/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

For the run from the dryer receptacle to the spa panel? Correct?

You've been really helpful - and who knows, maybe a life saver!
You don't need ring terminals to make the spa panel connections. Strip the wire to the appropriate length, insert wire, screw down tight.

If the plug you linked to fits your existing receptacle, then that will work.

How are you connecting in and out of the spa panel?
 
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NWMushroom

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jeffmeh

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Out of the spa panel, I would be using this receptacle:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...le-Power-Outlet-Black-R50-00278-000/202066680

My controller will then just plug right into it.

As for the connection into the spa panel, wouldn't I just use the plug I linked to (to go from the dryer receptacle) with the wire you linked to (to go into the spa panel)?

Thanks again!
Going out you are fine. The cord going in should ABSOLUTELY have a female receptacle end, otherwise you can having a potentially very dangerous situation with live male plugs. Use the same version as your outlet receptacle, except the plug end version, on the cord. That's NEMA 14-30. The cord versions are easier to find in the locking version, L14-30. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEMA-L14-30...431?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c30bdc90f

Now, you have two basic choices for where the cord enters the panel. You can buy a NEMA 14-30 inlet http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003B8T0E0/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20, which is expensive.

Or, you can make a short, pigtail cable, with a NEMA L14-30 plug, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-Nema-L1...032?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c309c87c8. You would want a strain relief where the cable exits the spa panel, http://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-3-...f-Cord-Connector-27697/202077092#.Unr6zpUo61s.

There are other ways to do it, but these methods again give you an easy way to incorporate a true ground in the spa panel if that ever becomes an option.
 
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jeffmeh

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Another option is to just bring the input cable right into the spa panel with the strain relief. Your spa panel would then have a long attached input cable, rather than being able to detach the input cable. Your call.
 
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NWMushroom

NWMushroom

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Thanks again. I think with your help I have it figured out.

I am still not sure whether to just bring the input cable right into the spa panel with a strain relief or go with a plug and inlet.

Quick question - I see the benefit you suggested regarding using 4 wire going into the spa panel (to help future-proof). If I went that route, what do I do with the ground wire going into the spa panel? Just cut it back a bit shorter than the other wires and leave it loose?
 

jeffmeh

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You can cap off the unused ground wire coming into the spa panel with something as simple as some electrical tape and a wire nut.
 
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NWMushroom

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OK, so I decided to go into the spa panel with a NEMA 14-30 inlet - unfortunately after removing the largest knock out it appears it won't fit, no matter which way I try to do it.

My bad, I should have checked the size before removing the knock out!

The knockout measures 2", but it looks as though I need a 2 1/8" hole to fit the inlet.

Any ideas on how I proceed here?!

Thanks!

knock-1.jpg


knock-2.jpg


knock-3.jpg
 

bsperr

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A rotary tool, like a dremel, would be quickest. Or you could pick up a half round rasp and do it by hand. Just work your way around the hole evenly with the rasp and you'll cut off 1/8" in no time.
 
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NWMushroom

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OK, so I finally got around to wiring the spa panel - it's a 3 wire input going to a 4 wire output.

Can someone please look at the picture I took and tell me if it looks right before I wire in the output receptacle?

Thanks!

spa-panel.jpg
 

jeffmeh

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OK, so I finally got around to wiring the spa panel - it's a 3 wire input going to a 4 wire output.

Can someone please look at the picture I took and tell me if it looks right before I wire in the output receptacle?

Thanks!
That looks correct to me. Nice work.
 
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