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crazytrainscott

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I'm new to the site and to all grain brewing. I made the below batch this past Saturday. So far I've dry hopped with 1/2 of the hops. My question is as follows:

Within 4-5 hours I saw noticeable activity. The airlock was popping every second or so. Today(Tuesday), I'm noticing that the activity is slowing. Seems to be one bubble every 15 seconds or so. Should I be worried that the activity level is subsiding this early? Did I make an error in the manner in which I made the starter?

16lbs 2-row
1.25lbs Thomas Fawcett Amber Malt* (see note below)
3oz Zythos
1oz Simcoe
1oz Warrior
Mix all hops together, and hop continuously for 90min** (see note below)
Mash at 149-150*
Starter made with Wyeast 1098 British Ale. Made a 3 quart starter which sat for approx 36 hours. Last 6 hours I put the starter in fridge and then discarded approx 2 quarts on top prior to pitching.

Dry hop:
2oz Zythos
2oz Simcoe
 
Reads like you've done everything right and you've likely had a good primary. I've often had 60 point or even higher pretty much "done" with the boisterous stuff within three and certainly four days, even with temperature control, so I'd say your beer is doing fine.

But the final call is up to the hydrometer sample taken when you've let the yeast really finish up their work. I usually run primaries for at least two weeks but usually much longer before even considering taking an SG reading...

Cheers!
 
Thanks! I just timed it and its bubbling about every 11 seconds now and was pitched about 3 days ago

My OG came in at 1.081
 
All looks well, the fermentation sounds right to me as well. After a few days (3-6), the major gymnastics in the Carboy should stop, and bubbling should slow to a trickle for the next 7-10.

One question, though, did you dry hop before fermentation was concluded? Generally, you don't want to do this because CO2 bubbling will rob your beer of the aroma that dry-hopping should bring. I recommend doing the same beer again in the near future, but dry-hop AFTER the fermentation has ceased, and see if you can tell a difference. Your beer won't be BAD, it just won't be as good as the beer dry-hopped AFTER feremntation is done.

I also like a smack pack, instead of a starter. I just brewed a 1.093 beer and used a smack pack. it's rollin righ talong.
 
Thanks for the heads up on dry hopping after fermentation has ceased. So probably best to dry hop when I get into the secondary.
 
I always like to dry hop in the secondary. However some recipes call for both. I suggest (if you like a hoppy beer) to maybe try both and see if that fits your tastes.
 
Once primary fermentation is done, you could rack to a secondary let age a bit then dry hop with fresh batch of hops as well. Depending on how long you plan on leaving it sit, I would plan on using a secondary even if you don't want to re-hop. It is possible to leave hops on a batch too long, and begin to extract unwanted flavors. Some say a "grassy" flavor, I'd say more like chewing on a green corn husk.............About 2 weeks is as much as I risk anymore.
 
Your beer won't be BAD, it just won't be as good as the beer fermented with proper yeast counts.

I also like a smack pack, instead of a starter. I just brewed a 1.093 beer and used a smack pack. it's rollin righ talong.

Made a note on a reply ^^

IMO To say that not making starters when using liquid yeast is fine is bad advice.

To the OP: Ignore the bubbling in the airlock. Gravity readings are the only way to know exactly how your fermentation is progressing.

You should wait until fermentation is done to dry hop. You also don't necessarily need to do a secondary at all. You can leave the beer in primary for 3-4 weeks then bottle it. You can dry hop for the last week or so. I like to use a 1 gallon paint strainer bag to control the hop debris.
 
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