I have made several AG batches and have a good crush so I know he crush is not an issue. I also hold water temp to a degree, so I know temp is not an issue. I also fly soar he at a slow rate, so I have come to the conclusion that it is something George my water. I have tried 5.2 salts and no improvement. I am not going to spend the money to test my water. I get an efficiency of around 50-60% and am getting super frustrated as I can never hit my target gravity. Anyone know what I can add to my water, aside from more grain, sugar or DME, which I have also done but don't want to do that as it just messes up thhe recipe. Maybe add gypsum or something else? I am planning on making a dogfish head 90 minute clone and it should be at 9% abv, but I am assuming I'll get it around 6% and will be really mad if I don't get it to at least 8%!
Help, poor efficiency due to water
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Bellybuster
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Without testing your water you're stabbing in the dark as to whether the water is even your issue.
I have my doubts.
Efficiency problems can have quite a few contributors, water ph is one of them but not to the extent that you'real seeing without showing other more obvious signs.
Crush can be a huge contributor, you say yours is fine but is it?
How long do you normally mash for? A long slow sparge will do little if you don't yet have conversion.
I have my doubts.
Efficiency problems can have quite a few contributors, water ph is one of them but not to the extent that you'real seeing without showing other more obvious signs.
Crush can be a huge contributor, you say yours is fine but is it?
How long do you normally mash for? A long slow sparge will do little if you don't yet have conversion.
I have my rollers set pretty close to each other, to get a fine crush. I assume it's pretty good based on the setting? I mash for 75 minutes just to be sure I get a good conversion. I used a cooler with a false bottom. Any ideas on what else I can do.
You're assuming
Adding this and that to water without knowing where you are starting with is a bad idea. You are as likely to negatively affect the flavor as you are to improve it.
Mash pH does have an effect on efficiency but it is a very minor player by comparison. Mineral content and mash pH have a much greater impact on flavor. This is true in all but the most extreme of water profiles.
You are barking up the wrong tree. Water is not going to have this major an impact on your efficiency. Delink the two in your thought process and look at the big players. You also need to measure things accurately if your data is to be of most use.
Mash pH is way down the list.
Not sure why would not want to know what's in your water. Tap water and Spring water are equally non-specific terms. If your going to spend money on water buy something you know the content of. DI or RO, the latter being 1/3 the price.
If you don't want to test your water but you can buy RO water at $0.39/gallon from Kroger/Walmart etc. That's that issue solved. You will need to add correctly planned minerals to build from your blank canvas.
This will not correct your efficiency issue.
- Your crush is OK. It may be lets have a look. Post a pic
- Your mash temperatures are solid. (How accurate is your thermometer. Is it calibrated. If so how did you calibrate it.)
- Your mash parameters are sound. (What type of water to grain ratio are you using)
- Your lautering efficiency is acceptable. What is your lautering process
- Your water is so out of whack as to impact the activity of the enzymes in the mash. (You have no knowledge as to your water's suitability for brewing)
Adding this and that to water without knowing where you are starting with is a bad idea. You are as likely to negatively affect the flavor as you are to improve it.
Mash pH does have an effect on efficiency but it is a very minor player by comparison. Mineral content and mash pH have a much greater impact on flavor. This is true in all but the most extreme of water profiles.
You are barking up the wrong tree. Water is not going to have this major an impact on your efficiency. Delink the two in your thought process and look at the big players. You also need to measure things accurately if your data is to be of most use.
- Crush
- Temperature stability and accuracy
- Mash thickness (thiner is better)
- Lautering efficiency. (Multiple method and equipment related factors)
Mash pH is way down the list.
Not sure why would not want to know what's in your water. Tap water and Spring water are equally non-specific terms. If your going to spend money on water buy something you know the content of. DI or RO, the latter being 1/3 the price.
If you don't want to test your water but you can buy RO water at $0.39/gallon from Kroger/Walmart etc. That's that issue solved. You will need to add correctly planned minerals to build from your blank canvas.
This will not correct your efficiency issue.
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If you think that your crush is OK and your mash temperature is accurate, then I would suggest doing one batch using a batch sparge versus your fly sparge. I've seen/heard of many issues with channeling and leading to poor efficiency when your equipment is not set up to fly sparge properly. This includes proper drainage as well as water addition.
If you get the same results with a batch sparge as you got fly sparging, then you have some other issue. I doubt water is your cause, but before trying any other cure, I could not recommend any alterations without doing a water test to see just what the issue is.
If you get the same results with a batch sparge as you got fly sparging, then you have some other issue. I doubt water is your cause, but before trying any other cure, I could not recommend any alterations without doing a water test to see just what the issue is.
5.2 salt is well known to be a waste of money as it cannot do what it claims to do. Ironically the money you spent on that would have almost paid for a water test so you can properly understand your water.
Most of the time people complain about low efficiency it's the quality of the crush. Tighten up the mill and try another batch. Paraphrasing another brewer, tighten the mill until it scares you, then give it one more turn.
On top of what others have said....Paying to get your water analyzed will probably save you money on the long run. If your water is a contributing factor to poor efficiency and you solve the problem, then you won't be throwing extra materials at it. I.E. Extra grain, DME etc...therefore saving you money in supplies
How did you set the gap you currently have? I have mine set using a credit card, after checked every few brews. I generally hit a 72-75% efficiency depending on the precise grain bill.
Also, how have you calibrated your volumetric equipment? Missing gravity points are often due to water volumes being inaccurately measured somewhere along the line.
Do you have a decent quality water report from whoever supplies your water so you can at least make some judgement about its quality?
Also, how have you calibrated your volumetric equipment? Missing gravity points are often due to water volumes being inaccurately measured somewhere along the line.
Do you have a decent quality water report from whoever supplies your water so you can at least make some judgement about its quality?
