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smithchar526

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Edit - How does this sound for 10 gallon batches using batch sparging method using a pump on single tier system?

Keggle 1 = MT
Keggle 2 - Boiling Pot
10 gallon round Cooler to catch the first run from MT

So I would:
1. Heat water and mash in MT,
2. Transfer 1st runnings to 10 gallon cooler.
3. Water heated from Boiling Pot, transfer to MT
4. 2nd runnings from MT transferred back to Boiling Pot
5. Transfer 1st runnings from cooler to boiling Pot.


-------------------------


Right now I have 2 keggles and am making stands for them with the burners built in. I have a beer pump that will be here tomorrow. I had been doing 5 gallon extracts, then switched to 10 gallons. Now I am switching to all grain. I did a BIAB all grain 10 gallon but want to do more of a traditional all grain setup. I think I want to start off with batch sparging.

From what I have read the 10 gallon cooler for a mash tun will have limitations with how much grain I can do in a 10 gallon batch so that makes me lean towards getting a 3rd keggle. I could use a cooler for the HLT and one of the kegs for MT.

Basically Im on information overload and want to know what people who all ready have this setup think I should try.

I see some of my options as

1 Cooler for MT (60gt cube cooler?)
2 Another keggle
3 Cooler as HLT (size?) and keg I have already for MT

My space is not really all that limited but it would take some work in my garage to make this fit with 3 kegs side by side without rebuilding work benches, sink ect...which is fine just gonna take a while
 
I'm having trouble "picturing" what you're trying to do. But to me, the easiest thing to do with one pump is to do two-tier, and gravity drain to the BK. That's what I did when I only had one pump.
 
you could also heat the sparge and transfer it to a cooler so you can start bringing your first runnings to a boil as you drain the mt.
 
great, that makes more sense, one less item to clean after brew day if I just put clean water in the cooler, and save time by heating the first runnings while getting the 2nd runnings. Thanks
 
Only issue I see is a keg makes for crappy mash temp holding unless you insulate the crap out of it.....better is RIMS/HERMS, (or, gasp, direct fire), to maintain mash temps. If you don't do any of those, be sure you really insulate it well.

Honestly, to me a keg is a terrible MLT without constant recirc to maintain temps. If I were you, I'd buy a 15 gal (60 qt), Ice Cube for $25 from Walmart and transfer your current cooler MLT valve/etc into that. I have my 60 qt Ice Cube, and love it. Even though I have a RIMS, and soon an e-Kettle to act as HERMS if I want, I don't see myself going to a keg MLT anytime soon, (and I have an extra keg). The cooler just holds heat so well, my RIMS has to do only minimal work to maintain temps, and I love recircing to get crystal clear wort.

With that all said though, the process you describe in your edit in the OP looks good.
 
Only issue I see is a keg makes for crappy mash temp holding unless you insulate the crap out of it.....better is RIMS/HERMS, (or, gasp, direct fire), to maintain mash temps. If you don't do any of those, be sure you really insulate it well.

Honestly, to me a keg is a terrible MLT without constant recirc to maintain temps. If I were you, I'd buy a 15 gal (60 qt), Ice Cube for $25 from Walmart and transfer your current cooler MLT valve/etc into that. I have my 60 qt Ice Cube, and love it. Even though I have a RIMS, and soon an e-Kettle to act as HERMS if I want, I don't see myself going to a keg MLT anytime soon, (and I have an extra keg). The cooler just holds heat so well, my RIMS has to do only minimal work to maintain temps, and I love recircing to get crystal clear wort.

With that all said though, the process you describe in your edit in the OP looks good.

That's a good point. I have a HERMS, and I'm still using my original Igloo cooler MLT! It holds temps perfectly, while a keg will not. You can use some of that reflectx insulation (or whatever it's called) that would help hold in temps.
 
Would a 10G cooler be suitable for a 10 Gallon batch Mash Tun?

I think it would be better to buy a larger cooler for a mash tun if you are not going to recirculate. Then use your 2 kegs for HLT and BK.
 
The whole issue I guess started from me wanting to use a false bottom and not a manifold for the mash tun and a round cooler just seems to fit better in my mind. If I do go with the Cube cooler that is big enough, what premade filter system should I get? I can make one but I just really dont want to... my list is to long already to make everything I want to, sometimes I just have to buy it. (Wife really wants me to focus on the non beer stuff I need to make)

I liked the false bottom because I thought cleaning would be quicker and the concept made more sense to me. But I will defer to those who have used both.

I also thought I could wrap the keg with insulation and maybe on the lowest setting add some heat when needed????

Homercidal - The 10 gallon batch in a 10 gallon cooler not being big enough is my issue. I didnt know this until after I thought I had everything figured out. So I was trying to think of a way to still use one and it not be a problem. I think your right that a larger cooler would be the way to go...not really sure why I dont want the manifold system, maybe I have just seen some that looked like way to many places to clean and I not sure how a bazooka screen would not get clogged. Maybe I just need to look around a little better at my options.
 
You're worries are not unfounded, but honestly, everybody and their brother uses a manifold system and they generally work very well. I could show you mine. I would not say it's "ideal", but clean up is SUPER easy, and it works great.

When I'm done with it, I just tip it on it's side and pull one end off (The pipes are not soldered) and spray the holes with a garden hose. The grain residue washed right out. Then I only have to put the end back on and I'm done.

The whole manifold flips upside down because of the semi-rigid plastic tube that connect the manifold to the spigot. I didn't design it to do that, but it's a handy feature that I'm glad to have.

My manifold is made from copper, because I didn't want PVC plastic. I drilled it at work on a CNC mill just save time. It still took a bit of work to file down the burrs and clean it up, but you could do the same thing at home with a hand drill or small press. Or cut slits instead.

This reminds me that I need to get some copper and build a manifold for a friend's Mash Tun...
 
Yeah I looked into a little more and have read alot of people who have had great experience with the ss briads and mainfold. I do have an extra ss washing machine hose that I can play around with and a little bit of copper. I was thinking of coming up with a hybrid of both (copper inside of SS briad). Thinking that I could fix some of the negatives of each. Sounds like the Briads main draw back is collapsing and the copper can allow to many grains in. Any one try something like this. The copper could have larger holes since it would be wrapped in the braids...still not sure if it would work. I also thought I could use a ss braid with a small false bottom over it to prevent the grain from collapsing the braid.

I think one reason I am look for other options is also because I used a kettle screen on my boiling pot and then used pellet hops...of course that would clog. I think that I keep going back to that and comparing the grain to pellet hops which isnt even the same. I just want to find\make something that can not get clogged.

I guess I will just play until I find something I like.
 
I'm not sure what is the downside to drilling/slotting copper or plastic, other than the time it takes to make it. I've never had a real problem lautering.

Anything can and will clog if you crush too fine or your mash is too thick or has a lot of certain grains.

If there were a perfect solution, everyone would use it. Some people use a false bottom, some people use a SS braid, some people use a manifold, some people use a paint strainer bag.
 

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