I have a 10 x 16 shed with double doors on the side and 2 foot shelves all around, I have a temporary set up on one end with a 3 pot 25 gallon herms system and a laundry sink, the question is what to add to the rest lol
Help me design my brew shed
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Man I wish I had that just for storage. I would think some sort of venting system would be on the top of the list.
OP
OP
beat ya too it, I put in a pretty good blower this year
I have window unit in mine that can keep it 60 degrees even when it is well over 110 degrees outside. In the winter I use a small space heater and can keep it colder. It's basically storage and a walk in fermentation chamber. I still brew outside.
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this is at one end, i have alot to work on there just cant get the time, I have a sink to the left and table on the back wall, trying for some sort of reclamed wood behind, not sure on the floor
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DuncB
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Insulate the pots with camping mats cut to size.
Build a condenser and then much less noise. Does the fan blow in or suck out?
If out could be higher.
There's lots of potential and work.
Build a condenser and then much less noise. Does the fan blow in or suck out?
If out could be higher.
There's lots of potential and work.
OP
OP
That fan in the window isn't the exhaust fan, that's mounted on the upper wall and it's a very good one, works great, I have a steam condenser for that unit as well, but lifting that lid with the condenser on is a chore, I haven't mastered that on that 25 gallon pot yet
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I built a chiller from a freezer, looks like so far the conical will go next to the table on the left then the freezer that has glyco inside, I'm guessing a conditioning freezer will be next to place for kegs, I also have a canner unit so I can't leave that out, I'm guessing the other end across for the brew rig
I have pegboard that's up in my garage brewery. Helps access some bigger things like racking tubes, silicone tubes with QDs, mash paddle, spoon, etc... that was a pretty economical addition to improve convenience during brew day..
I also mounted the grain mill and floor capper on some wood and drilled a hole in the wood so that I can hang those two devices on the wall with a eye screw that I bent open so it's more j-shaped... Not the solution for everybody, but it saves me precious space.
Also, kinda ancillary to the question, but I have a old 720p projector and speakers in the garage which is really nice to put some sports on while I brew ..
not fancy, but it helps to have something to sit and do while the mash or boil is going....
I also mounted the grain mill and floor capper on some wood and drilled a hole in the wood so that I can hang those two devices on the wall with a eye screw that I bent open so it's more j-shaped... Not the solution for everybody, but it saves me precious space.
Also, kinda ancillary to the question, but I have a old 720p projector and speakers in the garage which is really nice to put some sports on while I brew ..
not fancy, but it helps to have something to sit and do while the mash or boil is going....
OP
OP
Does anyone know where to get a stainless adaptor using no hoses to go from screwing into the Quick Ball Lock to a ½” npt to replace this contraption.
This is basically for oxygen free transfer from my fermenter
This is basically for oxygen free transfer from my fermenter
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similar to this
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It's a 1/2" NPT x 1/4" flare bushing.
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I cant seems to bring up the corerct one, all are male flare
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Probably need to go with two pieces. A 1/4"FNPT x 1/2"MNPT bushing. And then a Female Flare (1/4 FFL) to 1/4" Male NPT Adapter
Flare fittings don't always have direct adapters/bushings.
Its only $8.99 together if I did it right.
Flare fittings don't always have direct adapters/bushings.
Its only $8.99 together if I did it right.
DuncB
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What hose do you use on the camlock fitting?
DuncB
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Would the camlock not just screw straight on the end of the 1/2 inch bushing?
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The bushing was $2.65 so $9.64.
Yes but hard to find the bushing reducing to a 1/4" flare. It may exist though. Brewhardware has most of the male female 1/4" NPT and 1/4" flare combos, maybe all of them, not 100% sure. So usually not a problem to go from NPT to flare but the bigger sizes of NPT may need an extra fitting.
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Im currently using the standard pvc keg serving line, I beleive its 5/16" , Im just wanting to go directly from my camlock to the ball lock to reduce multiple connections
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a good adaptor to build would be a camlock plugging directly into a keg, having its own quick connect increasing flow
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You could almost do that if you had the corny keg lid with the TC port. Then just a TC with a camlock fitting. You'd probably want a TC valve after the lid then the camlock fitting I suppose to make the transfer closed.
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DuncB
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Wondering what tube goes on the camlock female?
DuncB
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I don't think a fit to 1/4 inch is needed as the half inch male can screw directly into the male camlock?
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The 1/2 MNPT screws into the camlock. The smaller side of the bushing is 1/4" FNPT. The male side of the adapter is 1/4" MNPT and screws into the bushing (use teflon tape). The other side of the adapter is 1/4" FFL and the male MFL of the ball lock QD screws in there. Camlock>bushing>adapter>QD.
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Oh my whole brewery set up runs around 1/2" silicone and camlock fittings, even on my fermenter and chillers, everything uses it and makes things so much easier
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Yes I've thought of something like that but I can't keep oxidation out through the lid without some sort of quick valve but good idea
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I'd have to think it through more carefully as far as purging. You could probably fill it all the way up to the valve with Starsan though? Cap it with the adapter, then close the valve and purge with CO2?
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what i do now is fill with the lid off and very fast then purge several times, using that adaptor i built is very slow with the 1/4" line
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So you felt like the transfer was too slow into the keg with your already built adapter?
Ok, so if you fill the keg with Starsan, then purge the Starsan with CO2, the keg is filled with CO2. Then a closed transfer from the fermenter to the keg won't matter if it is slow. Am I missing a concern or a step in your process? I am not always sure I am envisioning other peoples equipment and methods completely. I was thinking perhaps you wanted to use the camlock since it was bigger and might not clog when transferring hoppy recipes. And it would be faster but perhaps not worth the cost of the new lid and fittings.
You have big pots though so I guess you are moving lots of liquid where time itself might be a bit more important? How many kegs are you filling at a time, it might add up to get a bunch of those lids and a valve. Something in between as far as time might be to switch to ptc and use the biggest evabarrier lines. It would be wider than the barb inner diameters. A bushing to ptc adapter instead, not a Duotight as they use BSP not NPT. I think your time is going to be constricted by your ball lock QD connection.
Ok, so if you fill the keg with Starsan, then purge the Starsan with CO2, the keg is filled with CO2. Then a closed transfer from the fermenter to the keg won't matter if it is slow. Am I missing a concern or a step in your process? I am not always sure I am envisioning other peoples equipment and methods completely. I was thinking perhaps you wanted to use the camlock since it was bigger and might not clog when transferring hoppy recipes. And it would be faster but perhaps not worth the cost of the new lid and fittings.
You have big pots though so I guess you are moving lots of liquid where time itself might be a bit more important? How many kegs are you filling at a time, it might add up to get a bunch of those lids and a valve. Something in between as far as time might be to switch to ptc and use the biggest evabarrier lines. It would be wider than the barb inner diameters. A bushing to ptc adapter instead, not a Duotight as they use BSP not NPT. I think your time is going to be constricted by your ball lock QD connection.
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sorry about my narcissists ranting but I'll be honest after 6 hours plus brewing and cleaning I’m ready for something else not babying a transfer, you know what I mean lol
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I get it! I just realized you're brewing bigger batch sizes. I don't often do 10 gallon batches but I do purge multiple kegs at once and it can be tedious. I usually do at least 4 at a time. What might speed things up there would be a manifold. Assume a 15 gallon batch. Bring your 1/2" line in to two tees in series. You'd have three outputs which would go to three kegs. They would fill up at the same time. You would need to reduce the line from 1/2" to flare, either like I said originally or go 1/2" reduced down to push to connect, 9.5mm is the biggest Evabarrier then some Evabarrier tubing to the Duotight 9.5 ball lock disconnects. The kegs will need a little space. Make sense? I do this with my jockey to clean the four lines at the same time. I have an extra tee.
DuncB
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I wouldn't use silicone tubing anywhere that I wanted to keep oxygen out.
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Yes. A camlock immediately to the tees, then Evabarrier after reducing coming off the tees is one approach to avoid that.
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I'll be honest I've brewed for nearly 45 years and I'm sure that a pure oxygen free beer tastes better than mine but I keep getting people knocking at my door asking for more so I'm not too worried, they keep saying I should open a brewery but at 60 plus years it's not on the radar
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DuncB
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Why not get some vinyl 1/2 inch internal, sleeve it with a short length of appropriate sized tube fit that over the end of MFL or use the old barbed ball lock connector with above tube arrangement.
Less oxygen transfer and probably cheaper than the adapters.
I do wish there was large diameter Eva barrier tubing.
Less oxygen transfer and probably cheaper than the adapters.
I do wish there was large diameter Eva barrier tubing.
DuncB
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Are you fermenting in corny kegs?
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I have Eva barrier tubing but I think its 3/16" so that would be slow filling 3 kegs
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I have a some 14 gallon conicals
DuncB
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Am I assuming that you have a floating dip tube and then empty the conical from the top?
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