Help filling hole in keg or keg selection for keggle

[kaminsknator]

I have sourced four kegs to start my journey into brewing. I plan on make a 3 keggle system. Searching shows that the coors kegs would be adequate for the BK or the HLT but the straight one is best for the MLT because it is better for laminar flow. Personally I like the look of the straight kegs better.

The issue is that one of the straight kegs I bought had 3 small holes in the side of it. The top was cut off too which makes cutting the lid harder. I don't think the placement of these holes is correct for anything functional such as a sight glass or thermometer. I ordered all the stuff to solder on a couple fittings and could put a screw in and solder it then grind it flat. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix these holes or should i just use 2 coors kegs?

Any and all suggestions welcome.

 

[mredge73]

You can try jbweld or aquaseal. You could also drill them out to and add a bulkhead plug.
Bottom one would work fine for a thermowell. Mash level will not get to the top hole unless you are doing high gravity 10 gallon brews.

 

[IslandLizard]

Since you already have the soldering gear, I'd solder a screw in the ones that have no use and grind them down, as you said yourself.

Not sure if JB Weld will hold up over time. I had it pop off/out on a water vessel after a year, but it was enameled steel, not Stainless.

 

[SkipperJer]

I have a similar problem. I put the hole for the drain too high which leaves too much wort in the keggle. One idea was to have the hole welded shut but that may leave pits where stuff could get stuck. Another idea is to use Silicone RTV 6500 on a bolt/washer to plug the hole.

 

[GreenMonti]

I have a similar problem. I put the hole for the drain too high which leaves too much wort in the keggle. One idea was to have the hole welded shut but that may leave pits where stuff could get stuck. Another idea is to use Silicone RTV 6500 on a bolt/washer to plug the hole.

Use a dip tube ad make sure the outlet is lower then the bottom of the keggle and no need to weld up the current port

 

[SkipperJer]

I do have a dip tube and a sight glass installed in the too high hole.

 

[Bobby_M]

You can't mix a diptube and sight glass.

 

[day_trippr]

I do have a dip tube and a sight glass installed in the too high hole.

Sight glass aside, if said dip tube is connected to enough tubing to maintain a siphon, how much wort gets left behind?

For example, the drain valves on my kettles are installed a few inches above the bottoms, but their dip tubes extend to within a 1/4" of those bottoms.
And when I pump those drains there's no more than a couple of cups of fluid left when it starts sucking air.

Without the pump or siphon action, there'd be a couple of gallons of liquid left when the valves stop draining on their own...

Cheers!

 

[Bobby_M]

That's the thing, with a sight glass in the same port as the diptube, there is no way to maintain siphon without plugging the top.

 

[timdillon36]

I think a few stainless screws with a rubber or silicone gasket will seal those right up. If you plan on using a bag I would get a screw with a pan head and install from the inside and then cut off and grind flush from the outside.

Or find someone with a electric powered metal glue gun. If they are skilled with it you will never know the holes were there.

Just reread your first post. A screw and sodder is better than my first suggestion. I wouldd Flux everything before you install the screw and sodder then grind.

 

[GreenMonti]

Sight glass aside, if said dip tube is connected to enough tubing to maintain a siphon, how much wort gets left behind?

For example, the drain valves on my kettles are installed a few inches above the bottoms, but their dip tubes extend to within a 1/4" of those bottoms.
And when I pump those drains there's no more than a couple of cups of fluid left when it starts sucking air.

Without the pump or siphon action, there'd be a couple of gallons of liquid left when the valves stop draining on their own...

Cheers!

That's the thing, with a sight glass in the same port as the diptube, there is no way to maintain siphon without plugging the top.

Bobby is right, if there's a sight glass installed in line with the diptube. The port won't fully drain. The hole in the top of Sight glass will act as a siphon break and it won't drain past the "bulkhead" (bottom of the piping). You must plug the hole in the top of the sight glass for it to drain fully.

Now, take away the sight glass and have enough tubing to extend past the bottom of the the vessel and it will drain to the same point as with the pump.

 

[SkipperJer]

I appreciate the responses. When I drain the keggle I do put a baggie over the top of the sight glass so suction is maintained. The other problem is that since the hole is so high there has to be at least 6 gallons in the pot for the wort to show up in the sight glass, ie, the sight glass is useless for less than 6 gallons.

 

[passedpawn]

I appreciate the responses. When I drain the keggle I do put a baggie over the top of the sight glass so suction is maintained. The other problem is that since the hole is so high there has to be at least 6 gallons in the pot for the wort to show up in the sight glass, ie, the sight glass is useless for less than 6 gallons.

I would LOVE to see a picture of this. Please?

It sounds that port is high enough to be a return for whirlpooling. For now, put a camlock male fitting on there, add a dust cap to close it, and drill a much lower hole.

 

[GreenMonti]

I would LOVE to see a picture of this. Please?

It sounds that port is high enough to be a return for whirlpooling. For now, put a camlock male fitting on there, add a dust cap to close it, and drill a much lower hole.

Agreed.
Can we get a pic?