so trentm, I'm all about making big starters to pitch into my painstakingly brewed beers, but I am sensing there's more to your methods and I'm all ears.
What you are saying about the good yeast bring the primary challenge to homebrew ers resonates with me.
Can you share more about your methods? I've upped my game in a lot of areas, and I am seriously all ears on this.
Also, having had experience twelve stepping a close friend, don't beat yourself up. You know the person has to be ready for the message. It's not all about you. Peace.
Sure, but first let me say thanks for the kind words. The guy I mentioned has been my best friend for 53 years, we are now 58. I don't think he will make it to 60.
I really go to the greatest extreme for yeast preparation of any homebrewer I know of and I am sure this method is not for the average homebrewer just looking to make an easy batch of beer. However for the committed brewer who is ready to take the hobby to the highest level possible, this method can make that achievable. I do brew Belgians exclusively and perhaps these benefit more from high quality yeast than some other styles but I believe all styles will gain from great yeast.
My methods are adapted from my work as a plant pathologist (the study of plant diseases). But I think they are very similar to the way a commercial yeast lab would produce yeast. As part of my work as a plant pathologist, I would grow up cultures of various plant pathogens (typically bacteria or fungi) from storage, either in water, slant, or cryopreserved and inoculate healthy plants to study the effects of a challenge from a certain pathogen. To make these experiments publishable, strict guidelines are followed to to ensure repeatability.
To begin you need a source of yeast (any source will work). I have isolates from 5 different Belgian Strains; of those I cultured four from some of my favorite Belgians, one I got in a trade from "Worthaug" on this forum. But there is really nothing magic about isolating your own yeast, the strains from commercial yeast companies can be very good. I store my strains on slants but many people have reported good results by freezing in glycerine in a home freezer. You could even do this from a vial or pack of yeast without worrying about storage, it's just more expensive in the long run.
Now for the process: Using an
inoculating loop take a very small amount of yeast from your source (if you can see it on the loop, it's enough) and
dilution streak it onto a
media plate to form single colonies of yeast. After 3 to 4 days growth on the plate select a few (4-8) nice looking colonies and using your loop transfer the whole colonies into 7 - 10 ml of wort (I use a 15 ml disposable centrifuge tube). Shake the tube as often and as hard as possible over the next 12 to 18 hours (strain and temp dependant), leaving the cap loose between shakes. When the a good layer of yeast has formed at the bottom of the tube and the wort begins to clear from the top (just a bit of clearing in top few millimeters) the culture is ready for the next step. Each of the following steps can be from 4 to 10 fold increases (some people have reported success using as much as a 100 fold increase for the first step). A seven fold increase seems to work best for me but smaller increase are fine, whatever fits your final volume the best. Too large of a step creates a longer lag time and more potential for infection.
Back to the next step: From the 15 ml centrifuge tube transfer to ~35ml of wort in a 125 ml flask with a stir bar (flask size can vary but try to use half or less of the total volume of the container). Incubate on a stir plate until you feel you have completed about 75% of the fermentation (it take some practice but can get an idea from the cloudiness of the culture (there is plenty of room for error if you have not planned too large of a step increase). Now it's ready to move to the next step and I would use ~250 ml of wort in a 500 or 1000 ml flask. When ready this volume will take you up to 1700 ml pitch.
Each time you transfer to the next step, just pour the stir bar into the next flask and incubate on the stir plate at ~75F with a very strong vortex. Good aeration of a culture is, in my mind, the most important variable you can control when propagating yeast. I wish I had words to describe just how important but suffice it to say with good aeration throughout the culture will achieve many more, very healthy cells. Keep in mind that growing yeast produce a lot of CO2 and removing that from your flask and bringing in an adequate amount of O2 takes a strong vortex. It also helps to keep your flasks at half volume or less.
Aseptic technique and procedures are critical throughout the process.
Culturing yeast this way will produce many more cells than just making a starter from a vial or pack because you are using optimum pitching rates for each step. This along with good aeration, cultures of all my Belgian strains (with one exception) will produce on average 300 million cells per ml (this is strain dependant and one of my strains will only produce ~200 million cells per ml). So for most Belgian strains, culturing using this method will produce 300 billion cells per liter.
I italicized some of the terms that may not be familiar to some people, a google search may help to define those terms.