GFCI Options For 3-Prong Dryer Outlet

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Woodbrews

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I'm in the planning stages of an 240V eBIAB system and am wondering about my options for ground fault protection. For now, I plan on plugging the controller directly into a 3-prong dryer receptacle. My house was wired in the early 1960's and the dryer outlet is connected to a pair of 20-amp breakers.

What are my options for adding GFCI protection?

- Use an in-line extension cord like this between the controller and the outlet? Or this, cheaper alternative?
- Replace the dryer receptacle with GFCI outlet (if such a beast exists)?
- Replace the two 20-amp breakers with GFCI breakers?
- Wire a new dedicated outlet?

What is the best in terms of safety and cost-effectiveness?

Thanks!
 
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You can go with the TRC-44720-020 from CableOrganizer.com (last one in the list). You'll still need to change the plug ends or make up a short adapter for the dryer outlet connection. If you are handy, its easy, if not, call an electrician.

That said, your hook-up doesn't sound right. The box breaker should be at least a 30 amp double-pole breaker (a breaker that spans two breaker slots). Given your description of the current hookup, your max element size is going to be around 3800 watts. Most eBIAB setups use 5500 watt elements to achieve acceptable boil times. I'd be concerned that your electrical setup isn't up to par and would call in an electrician to inspect and upgrade as necessary. A GFCI breaker can be an option, but it depends on your box. Mine was $130 just for the breaker, so I went the in-line route.
 
A pair of 20 amp breakers or a double pole 20 amp breaker?

If its a pair you have some possible major electrical problems to fix in that house before you start adding stuff.
 
neo71665 said:
A pair of 20 amp breakers or a double pole 20 amp breaker? If its a pair you have some possible major electrical problems to fix in that house before you start adding stuff.

Aside from wiring and safety issues, that pair of breakers COULD end up feeding off the same hot leg. Which doesn't actually give you 220v.
 
A pair of 20 amp breakers or a double pole 20 amp breaker?

If its a pair you have some possible major electrical problems to fix in that house before you start adding stuff.

You are correct -- it is a double-pole 40-amp.
 
My guess is you have something like this, but you really should have something like this. Why? So both legs trip killing all electricity to the outlet. If each leg can be independently tripped, you could potentially still have an electrified outlet and get zapped when touching the equipment plus other safety hazards.
 
First, can you confirm that your wiring is H-H-N (no ground)? That would be the typical 3-prong dryer outlet. Also, please confirm what type of wire you have there (gauge, copper vs. aluminum). Are you sure it's a 2-pole 40a, rather than a 2-pole 20a breaker?

The best approach would be to get four wires from the breaker to the outlet (H-H-N-G), but that is easier said than done with existing work. I'm not sure whether PassedPawn's suggestion of bringing a ground from another outlet really conforms to the electrical code (someone else can comment on that), but it is probably better than what you have. Note that if you do add the ground, you must change the wiring in the dryer so that the neutral is no longer bonded to the dryer chassis.

All that said, you will likely find the next best solution to be to add a GFCI spa panel that you can plug into the existing dryer outlet when you wish to brew. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Midwest-...686230?keyword=midwest+spa+panel#.Up5PO5Uo61s
 
My guess is you have something like this, but you really should have something like this. Why? So both legs trip killing all electricity to the outlet. If each leg can be independently tripped, you could potentially still have an electrified outlet and get zapped when touching the equipment plus other safety hazards.

I'll snap a pic when I get home to clear up any confusion. But even if I replace the breaker with a GFCI breaker, I'm still left with a single 3-prong dryer outlet. I'll pull the front off the outlet and see whether it was run with a 3-conductor or 4-conductor wire.
 
3 or 4 conductor wire is less important than the gauge of that wire (you want 10 gauge wire), and the available amps back at the main panel (at least 30 amp on a 2-pole breaker where both legs will pop at the same time). Yes, 4 conductor is the current code, but you don't have to do that if the existing wire gauge is OK and you can just replace the panel breaker.

I'll snap a pic when I get home to clear up any confusion. But even if I replace the breaker with a GFCI breaker, I'm still left with a single 3-prong dryer outlet. I'll pull the front off the outlet and see whether it was run with a 3-conductor or 4-conductor wire.
 
My dryer outlet is connected to a double-pole 30amp. I also have available a spare double-pole 20amp that was formerly connected to my baseboard heat, which we no longer use. The house has 200amp service, so there is plenty room. I'm thinking of running a dedicated circuit instead of connecting to the dryer circuit.
 
Resurrecting an old thread.

My house is quite old. I believe it was built in the 50s. In any event, I want to build and inline gfci adapter for my 3 prong dryer outlet. This picture is my breaker. Does it appear safe to handle the AF in 240V mode?
20201129_163607.jpg
 
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I have a 40s house and use a three prong dryer outlet. The box was updated at some point but for sure not recently. More updated than the one in the photo but still not new. It is on a 30 amp and I use an inline gfci. I can’t tell you if yours is safe or not but I would assume it is if it can handle 30 amps. The foundry is less than 15 amps.
 
Resurrecting an old thread.

My house is quite old. I believe it was built in the 50s. In any event, I want to build and inline gfci adapter for my 3 prong dryer outlet. This picture is my breaker. Does it appear safe to handle the AF in 240V mode?
View attachment 708400
This is an old thread that I just saw in the list of related things below one I replied to earlier. The breakers and therefore panel in this picture is FPE equivalent. Lots of bad stuff about this equipment. Google FPE electric panel. I suggest it be replaced.
 
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