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rodwha

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I have slowly been drawing closer to trying my hand at making mead. I’ve been brewing beer for nearly 8 years. I bought my wife what she needed to make fruit wines years back but after 2 wines simultaneously she gave up so I’ve adopted the gear, which included three 3 gal Better Bottles.

I order my brewing needs from MoreBeer and they sell mead kits as well so I’ll be purchasing from them. As I’m using a smaller volume vessels I figured the hydromel kit which comes with 6 lbs of honey would be a good starting point, though I’m not sure I want it to be a lower ABV. According to the calculator here it would produce roughly a 9.6% mead. Adding an additional 1.5 lb bottle would boost it to about 11.9%, and 3 lbs to about 14%. For a wine-like mead I figured I wanted in the neighborhood of 13-14%, but I’m wondering if I should start lower with just the 6 lbs for my first attempt.

One thing that confuses me it that the calculator doesn’t determine the ABV based on the yeast used. Looking over the options at MoreBeer most don’t give an attenuation figure, though one does (75-100%). Does wine yeast not work in the same manner as beer yeast?

I figured I’d start with their hydromel kit as it comes with instructions and the nutrients needed. All I need to do is choose the yeast. What I’m wanting is a very dry mead that has the honey flavor intact. I’m not sure I’d want any yeast flavor influences. I think I’d prefer to start with Redstar dry yeast based solely on the price. It appears to my novice mind that the Cuvée packet would be ideal for what I want. Opinions?

I keep my beer yeasts on hand making yeast starters. I generally make a 1.5 qt starter using the quart for the beer and the pint as what’s to be stored giving it another ~3 months of life. Does mead yeast work in the same manner? Does anyone keep their yeast going like this?

I’m also curious how temperature impacts the process. Does it influence the attenuation? Like beer does it influence flavor contributions? I assume it also influences the speed at which the yeast works. My fermentation chamber is set to 65* and the thermostat is set to 75*. Using the Cuvee yeast (assuming its optimal) which would you ferment it at to achieve a well attenuated mead with little yeast flavor impact?

I had bought a Mr Beer kit from a garage sale solely for the little fermentor and the plastic bottles so as to give me the ability to take mead to the lake, pool, or camping. I’ve contemplated using the little fermentors instead of the Better Bottles because they have the little spigot that would make transferring without aerating a bit more simple, but it has a fairly large opening at the top that I assume gives too much headspace for this purpose, right? Essentially I’d be aerating it more than what’s desired, and why carboys and such have the small neck?
 
I have some Mr Beer fermenters I use for small experimental projects. Sanitize the spigot and then wrap it up with a small plastic bag. Get a small length of tubing to fit on the spigot that will go down in the bottle to prevent splashing.
Your 3 gallon better bottles are great for 2-2.5 gallon batches.
You don't need to buy a mead kit from More Beer. Get some honey and yeast nutrient.
I like Fermaid O, but there are lots of different kinds. A small digital scale is vital and it comes in handy when you are beer brewing, so just get one now.
Check out the mead calculator on the Mead Made Right website. There's a podcast with recipes as well.
I use GoFerm protect when re-hydrating wine yeast, it works for me. Follow a degassing and nutrient addition schedule and your mead will come out great.
Look for the Basic Brewing podcast and look for the "best mead practices" episode.
Ricky the meadmaker offered lots of great tips and the website associated with his meadery has recipes and "ask the meadmaker" videos.
Starting out with a low ABV mead is a good idea. Your mead will be ready to drink sooner. Higher strength meads can be a little tricky and if you get a strong alcohol note it may take a long time to age out.
Temperature is important when fermenting mead, but you can make a simple temp. control chamber with an insulated box and water frozen in soda bottles.
 
As I understand it attenuation only applies to beer.
For wine what matters is the max ABV the wine can handle, and whether the amount of sugar can hit or surpass that level. This is true even when using beer or ale yeast in your mead/wine/cider.
And honey has no nutrition for the yeast other than sugar so make sure you use a nutrient.

Other than that? What he^ said.
 
I order my brewing needs from MoreBeer and they sell mead kits as well so I’ll be purchasing from them. As I’m using a smaller volume vessels I figured the hydromel kit which comes with 6 lbs of honey would be a good starting point, though I’m not sure I want it to be a lower ABV. According to the calculator here it would produce roughly a 9.6% mead. Adding an additional 1.5 lb bottle would boost it to about 11.9%, and 3 lbs to about 14%. For a wine-like mead I figured I wanted in the neighborhood of 13-14%, but I’m wondering if I should start lower with just the 6 lbs for my first attempt.
Quick and dirty ABV Calculation -- OG - FG * 131.25 = ABV Example OG 1.065 - FG 1.005 = 0.060 * 131.25 = 7.9 ABV (Not perfect but works within a 10th or two.)

One thing that confuses me it that the calculator doesn’t determine the ABV based on the yeast used. Looking over the options at MoreBeer most don’t give an attenuation figure, though one does (75-100%). Does wine yeast not work in the same manner as beer yeast?
For higher ABV Meads I target 1.125 OG using a little more than 3 pounds of honey in a gallon and drive it to 1.000 or less. Same for Lower ABV Meads but target 1.065 OG and about 1.5 pounds honey. As mentioned above attenuation is not something most mead makers take into consideration. Yeast tolerance, temperature and nutrient additions all play a part.

I figured I’d start with their hydromel kit as it comes with instructions and the nutrients needed. All I need to do is choose the yeast. What I’m wanting is a very dry mead that has the honey flavor intact. I’m not sure I’d want any yeast flavor influences. I think I’d prefer to start with Redstar dry yeast based solely on the price. It appears to my novice mind that the Cuvée packet would be ideal for what I want. Opinions?
As the Madscientist suggested Mead made Right is a great resource. Look at Groennfell Meadery web site as well. They have lower ABV recipes and some interesting practices if you have temp control that might be worth looking into.
https://www.groennfell.com/recipes


I keep my beer yeasts on hand making yeast starters. I generally make a 1.5 qt starter using the quart for the beer and the pint as what’s to be stored giving it another ~3 months of life. Does mead yeast work in the same manner? Does anyone keep their yeast going like this?
Yes, I am a fan of yeast starters (Others would argue against) and works just fine.

I’m also curious how temperature impacts the process. Does it influence the attenuation? Like beer does it influence flavor contributions? I assume it also influences the speed at which the yeast works. My fermentation chamber is set to 65* and the thermostat is set to 75*. Using the Cuvee yeast (assuming its optimal) which would you ferment it at to achieve a well attenuated mead with little yeast flavor impact?
Unlike beer mead is all about the flavor nuances vs. bolder larger flavors. Yeast, Honey and additions including nutrients all bring their own flavor profile. Temp is very important for most yeast. Premier Cuvee is a wine yeast and some of these kinds of yeast get stressed pretty easily. Stressed yeast throw some off flavors. As a general rule of thumb (until you figure out your preferred protocols) I would target mid to low range of the published temperature tolerance. Something like 62 - 66 Deg F for this one and even at those temps will drive pretty much any mead to near 1.000 FG. Assuming good staggered nutrient protocols (TOSNA 3.0) for higher ABV Meads >10% and TOSNA 3.0 with all the addition at yeast pitch for <10%. Again, as mentioned Fermax and Fermaid-O is my choice as well.
 
One thing that confuses me it that the calculator doesn’t determine the ABV based on the yeast used. Looking over the options at MoreBeer most don’t give an attenuation figure, though one does (75-100%). Does wine yeast not work in the same manner as beer yeast?

Beer and ale have sugars that are difficult to ferment. Most yeasts leave some of that behind, as residual sweetness. That's what attenuation is about when brewing. Mead, wine and cider have simple sugars that are close to 100% fermentable (sometimes more). Attenuation does not apply, even when using an ale yeast.

I figured I’d start with their hydromel kit as it comes with instructions and the nutrients needed. All I need to do is choose the yeast. What I’m wanting is a very dry mead that has the honey flavor intact. I’m not sure I’d want any yeast flavor influences. I think I’d prefer to start with Redstar dry yeast based solely on the price. It appears to my novice mind that the Cuvée packet would be ideal for what I want. Opinions?

Any wine yeast that has a "neutral" flavor profile will do that. Look in the Scott Labs Yeast Handbook (available online) and search for "neutral". You'll find a bunch. DV-10 is one of those.

I keep my beer yeasts on hand making yeast starters. I generally make a 1.5 qt starter using the quart for the beer and the pint as what’s to be stored giving it another ~3 months of life. Does mead yeast work in the same manner? Does anyone keep their yeast going like this?

Sure. Especially with liquid yeasts. But dry wine yeast is cheap, and I've never gone to the trouble of trying too reuse them.

I’m also curious how temperature impacts the process. Does it influence the attenuation? Like beer does it influence flavor contributions? I assume it also influences the speed at which the yeast works. My fermentation chamber is set to 65* and the thermostat is set to 75*. Using the Cuvee yeast (assuming its optimal) which would you ferment it at to achieve a well attenuated mead with little yeast flavor impact?

Somewhat, yes and yes! Temperature matters. For most meads (and protocols) it's recommended to ferment in the lower 25% of the yeast's published temp range. 65° is a good number for most cases. The final gravity (call it attenuation if you want) is usually at or just below 1.000 in most ferments, though I did have a traditional mead finish at 1.002 with D-21 yeast at 60°F.
 
Thanks for all of this info helping to clear up a few things!

I don’t think I’ll bother with trying to save yeast. Dry yeast isn’t expensive and I’m not sure how often I’ll make mead anyway.

Now I’m a little curious how something like US-05 would do with a mead... Maybe one day I’ll try it and see.

Is light an issue?
 
For a yeast starter for mead, I use of 1lb honey and 1 tablespoon of Fermaid-O to 2 liters. It’s the recipe from the one month mead thread, another good source of information even if you don’t make a BOMM (which uses Wyeast 1388 Belgian ale yeast). When you make a starter, make it little oversized and just save a jar or two from it before you pitch. you’ll be saving yeast that isn’t mixed with other flavors or already stressed. Just stick it in the fridge after it ferments dry or keep the lid loose until it goes dormant in the fridge.
 
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Light can be an issue but again, not in the same way that light is a problem for brewers. Light that excites hopped beer creates a skunk like smell and flavor so brewers need to avoid light. With wine making light can cause color to drain***so wine or mead made with fruit might need to fermented so that the carboy is not kept in direct sunlight. Honey itself I don't think has any inherent color that light will fade but that said many mead makers keep the sun away from their carboys. I ferment in my basement so I have never really had to deal with problems associated with light.
*** I suspect that if the wine or mead was made with more acidity and contained more tannins the problem of fading color would be minimized greatly but it is easier to blame UV light than one's technique...
 
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