Getting ready to replace my mash tun

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srice

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I"m currently using a RIMS setup with a cooler for a mash tun. The cooler is getting pretty funky and I would like to replace it with stainless. I like to simplify while I upgrade and was curious as to why I don't see more bottom draining mash tuns. This would allow me to get rid of the dip tube. Is there an inherent reason you don't see more bottom draining tuns?
 
Absolutely love mine, and the tippy-dump makes it even better.

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Absolutely love mine, and the tippy-dump makes it even better.



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I was thinking of building out this design as well --
2 questions:

Rather than using the tippy dump, if you had a hole in your brew table (open to the floor), could you easily disconnect the bottom drain line and just push the spent grain out of the keg hole on the bottom (assuming it's possible to easily get the false bottom inside out of the way)?

How well does your insulation on the MT hold temp (assuming single infusion w/ no RIMS/HERMS or other heat control)?
 
I was thinking of building out this design as well --
2 questions:

Rather than using the tippy dump, if you had a hole in your brew table (open to the floor), could you easily disconnect the bottom drain line and just push the spent grain out of the keg hole on the bottom (assuming it's possible to easily get the false bottom inside out of the way)?

How well does your insulation on the MT hold temp (assuming single infusion w/ no RIMS/HERMS or other heat control)?

Not really- I have a hole in mine but since it's bottom draining, the only opening is where the sanke fitting is- about 1/2"(?) I think. You'd never get all of the wet grain mass out of there.

I LOVE the tippy dump, but I'm a 135 pound weakling and brew 10 gallon batches, and it means much less work and lifting. Remember, the keg weighs 30 pounds empty, and starting with 23 pounds of grain in a batch means about 20+ pounds of water absorption- so that empty keg with spent grain weighs around 75 pounds in a 1.050 or so beer.

Mine isn't insulated, but stainless does hold temperatures better than I thought. I use my old cooler's lid, and that helps. I do have a HERMs, but it's not really that necessary in my experience although it holds temps rock solid with no variation at all and gives a super clear wort.

Photo (MLT in the middle):

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I was thinking of building out this design as well --
2 questions:

Rather than using the tippy dump, if you had a hole in your brew table (open to the floor), could you easily disconnect the bottom drain line and just push the spent grain out of the keg hole on the bottom (assuming it's possible to easily get the false bottom inside out of the way)?

How well does your insulation on the MT hold temp (assuming single infusion w/ no RIMS/HERMS or other heat control)?

Like Yooper said, you'll never be able to realistically push your grain out that hole in the keg, I just don't think it's feasible. I don't think it would be easy to get your false bottom out of the way either. The tippy-dump is great, but i'm sure you could get by without it. Some people use a can or other scooping device to remove most of the grain. I've heard of others using a shop vac. If your stand is tall enough, you could possibly disconnect your drain plumbing and tip the tun into a wheel barrel or bucket.

As for the second question, I couldn't give you a very good answer, as I've always used my HERMS to maintain mash temps. I insulated mine to try to keep temps as consistent as possible throughout the tun.
 
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