Gas/Electric HERMS

[Pombe]

Wife won't let me brew on the stove anymore (just moved to a new house) but she's given me the go-ahead for the garage brewery I've wanted since I started brewing.

Of course I've done lots of reading here, especially the DIY section on the HERMS/RIMS, electric/propane etc etc. Initially I wanted to go all electric for efficiency reasons; however, I want to do most of the work myself and don't have much confidence with household electricity. I'm also lacking a 50A dedicated circuit and the desire to add one to my panel.

That being said, I've thought up an electric/propane hybrid solution. It will be a three-vessel single tier Brutus 10 style system...MLT, HLT and BK; recirculating mash etc. My theory is, I want to use a single burner between the HLT and BK, that will be mounted on a slider and able to transition to heat either the MLT or the BK. The system will utilize the burner to heat the strike water to the appropriate temperature. Then, after dough in, I'm hoping to recirculate through the MLT while keeping the temperatures consistent with a typical 120V 1500W low-density element.

The burner would then be transferred over to the BK for the boil. My question is, will the 1500W element be able to maintain my mash temperature and also be able to bring the water up to mash out temperatures?? I'll be using 15G Sanke's for 10G batches.

Any thoughts or feedback??

 

[erik]

How are you going to ventilate the Carbon Monoxide from the propane burning in your garage?

Due to the problems with propane (CO, refills, etc) I'm building my all-electric HERMS stand now. My next step is to put in the 60 amp SPA panel (once I finish the flooring in the house SWMBO is happy).

 

[Yooper]

I have a 1500 watt element in my HLT and it takes a LONG time to get from recirculation temps to mash out. Too long, actually, and I'm already wanting to change it.

It takes about 2 hours to get my tap water to strike temperature, from about 48 degrees to 178 degrees, and then when I'm ready to mash out, it takes forever to heat my MLT (through recirculation) to mash out temps. When I change it, I'm definitely going with a bigger element. I'm not sure what size yet, or maybe just adding an additional 1500 watt would work, but I'm looking into it.

 

[Pombe]

How are you going to ventilate the Carbon Monoxide from the propane burning in your garage?

Due to the problems with propane (CO, refills, etc) I'm building my all-electric HERMS stand now. My next step is to put in the 60 amp SPA panel (once I finish the flooring in the house SWMBO is happy).

Th rig will be on casters and I'll always be brewing with the garage door open.

I have a 1500 watt element in my HLT and it takes a LONG time to get from recirculation temps to mash out. Too long, actually, and I'm already wanting to change it.

It takes about 2 hours to get my tap water to strike temperature, from about 48 degrees to 178 degrees, and then when I'm ready to mash out, it takes forever to heat my MLT (through recirculation) to mash out temps. When I change it, I'm definitely going with a bigger element. I'm not sure what size yet, or maybe just adding an additional 1500 watt would work, but I'm looking into it.

What's the limit on element wattage on a 120V household circuit??

 

[erik]

What's the limit on element wattage on a 120V household circuit??

It depends on the circuit that you're plugged into, and the other load on that circuit. Most household circuits (in my neighborhood) are 15A, but I've put 20amp ones into my house.

Assuming 15amp (and no other load), you can use a 1650 Watt element (110*15 == 1650)
With a 20amp circuit you can use 2200 Watt element.

I'm setting up 220V and a 5500Watt element for each BK and HLT so it should be a max of 50 amps if I run both at the same time (5500/220) *2 == 50
The 60 amp panel will give me enough "headroom" to also use a pump and any other needed devices.

BTW, I'm NOT an electrician so my knowledge of electricity is enough to keep me from dying and hire an electrician to inspect my work before he plugs the sub-panel into the house main panel

 

[Pombe]

I suppose I could just use the element to maintain the mash temperatures and kick on the burner to raise to mashout temps. Trying my hardest to avoid the 50A breaker.

 

[sjlammer]

what circuits do you currently have in your garage? check it out and give us a list.

Also, I've read that you don't want to run a breaker at full capacity all the time. supposedly they are rated to run at 80-85% of their listed capacity for continuous duty.

the way i've seen it listed is 120V x 15 amps x 85% = 1530 watts continuous

120V x 20 amps x 85% = 2040 watts.


Personally, I have (2) 2000Watt heaters in my HLT. This heats water from 100 to 168 in about 20-30 minutes. Two hours is a long time to wait for water if you ever need it in a hurry