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bb239605

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Looking to get myself a new gaming PC. I prefer a desktop, and am willing to spend 1.5k total (i need a monitor also). I dont have any computer right now, and since i spend most of my PC time playing games I was hoping to get some advice.

I havent bought a computer in a long time, and with the release of Skyrim and the imminent release of Star Wars: The Old Republic i want something that can crank these out on ultra graphics settings. (I also have SC II and will being playing Diablo III).

Anyway, I was looking at a CyberPower BlackPearl, but i havent bought a PC in a while so I am slightly unsure as to what to get.
 
Gamer Xtreme SSD-K from cyberpower looks good. 1300 without monitor should be right in your price range. You could also go with a cheaper model and upgrade your video card or go with multiple cards. Whatever you choose just dont skimp on the following and you'll be good: Video Card(s), RAM, Power Supply, Motherboard.
Find a site that lets you costomize your computer. Its good to know exactly whats going into it.
 
Building a computer is rediculously easy. If you have a Costco membership I recommend the zt systems because they are a good price. But if you want extreme gaming be ready to drop 1500 on a desktop
 
Build it yourself. A true gaming machine needs to at least meet my two basic criteria:

AMD powered
Water Cooled

:tank:
 
You are going to get a lot of different opinions. No matter if you buy or build, for gaming you will need:

VIDEO CARD(S)
RAM
CPU
PSU

The PSU is the lifeline of a computer. Without ample, clean power a computer can be flaky, stop working, or become damaged. It doesn't seem as important at first glance as the other components, but it's the first thing I shop for in a system. I've had to replace PLENTY of shtty Power Supplies in otherwise decent systems over the years.

Video cards: You can save money by buying a single very good card and likely it will play most of the games out there fully cranked. SLI cards are going to be more expensive, not just because you have to buy two of them, but because you also have to get an SLI board to put them in.

I'd think about buying a single very good card and then upgrade that in a couple of years when the prices drop.

Something else that might be important to think about is a Solid State Hard Drive. Keeping the OS and the Game directories on a SSD is a fantastic way of speeding up a gaming experience. Load times for both are a fraction of what a SATA drive will do.

They are expensive, and not nearly as big yet, but the speed is impressive.

If it were me, I'd build a system and run a single very nice video card and buy an SSD and a SATA drive for data and backup. I'd get as much RAM as I can cram in there and a CPU that isn't outrageous in price (I like to hit the sweet spot on price vs performance). Power it all with a highly rated high power PSU and a nice case (I have been liking Cooler Master for relatively inexpensive, yet nicely featured cases), and a nice 23" or larger Widescreen Monitor with HDMI inputs. Or two, if you have the desktop space!
 
I would consider waiting until next year. The 600 series cards will be out during the first quarter of next year from what I've read. I'm planning on rebuilding my computer with some new parts then.
 
Build it yourself. A true gaming machine needs to at least meet my two basic criteria:

AMD powered
Water Cooled

:tank:

Agreed. AMD, As much RAM as you can get, SLI ready Mobo, 2 of the best graphics cards you can get. Water cooling is only a novelty.. Just make sure you have plenty of fans. As far as monitor goes, get yourself a 32 inch LCD, LED, Or plasma with a high refresh rate since you will be sitting so close to it.
 
As an OCF member and lifetime nerd I have had more than my share of debates so rlly not looking for another, but water cooling is hardly a novelty. Is it for everyone? Absolutely not. Are kits lame? You betcha. Can custom made high performance water systems be dismissed? No way ;-)

Sent from my Galaxy S 4G using Home Brew Talk for Android
 
My advice? Go outside.

But if you still want to play video games instead (I was there once) I would build my own system. I consider myself computer stupid, but I built my own once and it was super easy. Put the hardware crap together (worked on cars all through college, putting a computer together was easy) myself and invited a software guru nerd friend over to install the software and formatting crap in exchange for beer and I was on my way.

Then 6 months later I got a kayak and a mountain bike and that computer has collected dust ever since (7 years ago).
 
As an OCF member and lifetime nerd I have had more than my share of debates so rlly not looking for another, but water cooling is hardly a novelty. Is it for everyone? Absolutely not. Are kits lame? You betcha. Can custom made high performance water systems be dismissed? No way ;-)

Sent from my Galaxy S 4G using Home Brew Talk for Android

Water cooling is a great way to gain performance, but you gotta admit, the real reason to water cool, is just to water cool.

I mean, you gotta be a modder in order to get the full benefit. The casual builder would not be well served by playing with this stuff. It's kind of like hot rodding.
 
That I will completely agree with, its a status thing :tank:

I do agree with going outside, hunting is the best FPS

Sent from my Galaxy S 4G using Home Brew Talk for Android
 
My $0.02, being a cheap DIY guy, build your own. It saves lots of money. I priced my system out against similar store bought models when I built it and I was ahead by $500, plus mine was better. Spend the extra $500 on a 32"-40" LCD/LED/Plasma as said before.

Took me a week or two of reading how parts match up and how it's done. It'll take 2 hours tops for you to physically build your first one. If you don't want to build it, then the one you linked will work...but I think you're getting ripped off.
 
Good greif...

I did not read the other replies so this may or may not have been covered already...

1st off this is the WAY WRONG TIME to get a new computer and here is why... Windows 8 is going to be released shortly. Windows 8 will ONLY be released in 2 versions 64 bit and 128 bit. Currently we only have 32 bit and 64 bit operating systems and chips availible to purchase. In a nut shell there is going to be a brand new chip series released 128 bit and 32 bit systems will go the way of the dinosaurs. When this happens the price of the 64 bit hardware is gonna drop like a rock off a cliff. So in short even if you do not want a 128 bit system the 64 bit stuff is going to get REAL cheap at that time.

This is also good news for the maccers out there because finnially the mac OS will get to run in it's native 128 bit OS (that is what mac was originally written for) in short I suggest to wait a few months.

Next up, if you build it yourself you will save a bunch of cash. I know it can be scarey to think about building a computer with no help. Lucky for you (and anyone else that is reading this) I already wrote a guide!

Now that you have read Moriz guide to parts, spent your hard earned money and are trying to figure out how this all goes together. Your scared that you are going to mess something up. No fears, this is the guide for you. It is going to walk you through, very basically on assembly and take you to POST.

Note: This is a guide. I am not responsible for bad parts or parts you have broken, please use common sense. Please read it all 1st then go through the steps.

KEY
cpu = chip.
psu = power supply
mobo = mother board
gpu = graphics card
AS5 = Arctic Silver 5

Set-up.

The 1st thing you need is tools. No fear they are not very expensive. A NON MAGNETIC philps screwdriver and NONMAGNETIC small needle nose pliers. A PSU tester/jumper (less than $5.00). 1 clean piece of corrugated cardboard (about 16 in x 16 in), 1 can of air/ duster, a small tube of AS5. I am going to strongly suggest an anti-static wrist strap, it is not totally needed but I do not want you to fry your new parts. A roll of electric tape and/or wire ties, a deck of playing cards, paper towels, utility knife, pen, paper and lastly a folder.


Work Area: A room that is not “super dry” (this can be extra troublesome in the winter months) and has NO carpeting. A clean table, a chair, good lighting. A basement if available is perfect, as long as there is no standing water. Do not eat/drink in your work area or have food/drink on your work table. If you need any food or drink take a break.

Mind set: Yes, you can do this! This is not a race. Slow and steady is better than having to do things over (especially when you think your all done!)

Prep: Print this guide! (If it is to be published/redistributed I do ask that you ask my permission 1st.) Put the cardboard on the table, so edges do not hang off. It needs to be bigger than the mother board 16 in x 16 in is perfect. Lay out your tools on table. Put your UNOPENED parts on the floor near the table. Wash and dry your hands. Grab a seat…….


Here we go!



Step 1 – unpacking and inspection

Start opening your boxes. Inspect every part for obvious defects, hit it with the duster/canned air, placing them on the table afterwards. Put the mobo on the cardboard. NOTE: do not hold canned air upside down or at close range to the part. Do NOT touch any connections with your fingers or blow the part of with your breath! Take all documents and disks, put them into the folder. This is also a prime time to cut of the upc’s off of the boxes and store the receipts. Warranties, rebates will need/want this info. Graphic cards serial #’s are most often on the card. Grab your pen and paper write it down. Set the folder off to the side but keep it close.



Step 2 – planning + testing

Open up the computer case and try and get a good image of what goes where. Think about wire management. A rats nest (no offense Snog ) of wires makes for bad air flow, and harder to work on, not to mention not impressive to show off. Ok, close up the case and set it aside, you wont be using it for a good while.

Now grab the PSU and the jumper/tester. Put the jumper on and plug the psu in. Make sure the fans spin, (LED lights come on if it has them) and there was no “poof” of smoke. Unplug it set it aside.



Step 3 – assembly

Now we are going to assemble the the basic computer outside the case. I find it easier to do it this way, if I run into troubles I do not need to rip it all apart. If you have the anti-static wrist strap get it on, and attach it to its pad or the case.
Lets start with the cpu. All modern cpu's are ZIF (zero insertion force) on the mobo there is normally a protective plate (plastic) where the cpu goes. open the retaining latch and remove that piece of plastic. Then on the chip there is normally also a protective cover remove it and look for the triangle in 1 corner, where the chip goes on the mobo there is usually a mark in a corner on the mobo socket. Set the chip in place. (if your chip has a bunch of little pins be careful not to touch them or bend them.) lock the chip in place.
Now it is time for the ram. You will see (on the ram) there is a few "notches" on the edge with the contacts. Once again do not touch the contacts. Look into the ram slot, you should see corresponding little "humps". Push the locks away from the ram slot and gently push the ram into position until the locks come up and lock the ram into place. (It is a good Idea to read the mobo manual to find out what slots need to be populated with ram. Normally there will be 2 of 1 color and 2 of another.)
Next, we will install the cpu cooler. Some aftermarket coolers are big, really big. It can be troublesome to get the ram in with 1 of those but we did that already. Now get your paper towels, playing cards, and arctic silver. The arctic silver will come out very thick. Put a small rice sized bead on the cpu. now take your playing card(s) and as best as possible spread it out to just before the edge of the chip. ***IMPORTANT*** AS5 conducts electricity do not get it on ANYTHING other than the top of the cpu and the heat sink surface!!!!!! Use paper towels, if you need a little more use a little more. Next repeat this for the heatsink surface that will touch the chip. Thin but not so that you can see through it. Now line up the heat sink and attach it. (If it has screws, don't reef on it, take them just a small ways past the squish. When you think it is on good give it a little twist does it move really easy on the cpu? if not, your good; if so, just a little tighter. hook up the power cord for the fan to the correct place on the mobo, consult mobo manual for this.

NOTE: At this point get the mobo manual and your case. Set the case next to the mobo so that you can hook up the power button leads. This will vary on cases and motherboards so read the manual.

Step 4 - basic POST test.

Hook up a keyboard and mouse, then the PSU. Plug the psu up to the mobo but not to a socket. Last minute check, check that the ram is in, the cpu is stable. Now plug in the psu (you may need an extension cord) with a surge protector power strip. Then push the power button. In a few seconds you should hear 1 beep If not something is not right. Power the machine down by holding the power button in until it dies. You do not need a monitor for this test. unplug the psu from the surge protector and hold the power button in for 15 seconds, this will discharge the components. Disconnect the psu from the mobo. unplug any cords from the mobo to the case.

*no post or multiple / strange beeps.* Not to worry unless you had a big poof of smoke(very, very rare). If there was smoke you will be RMAing all those parts but the cpu cooler and the psu. If you have a noise that sounds like a demon gasping for its last breath, the ram is bad. If you are getting multiple beeps check the mobo manual, it will have beep codes in it normally in the back. (you may need to call support at this point for some help.)

Step 5 - into the case.

Now grab your case and mount the psu in it. Your mobo should have came with a plate for the back of the case, I suggest you use the 1 that comes with the mobo, not the case. Next mount the harddrive(s) and the disk player/burner (we are just mounting at this point don't hook anything up to the psu yet). Next lay the case on its side and mount the mobo. *BE VARY CAREFUL, DO NOT LET THE SCREW DRIVER SLIP, it can vary easily scratch and destroy the motherboard.* I suggest you use the needle nose pliers to start the mobo mounting screws, or to "retrieve" a fallen/dropped screw. next rehook up the power buttons, case fans, and the rest of the cables and wires along with the UNPLUGGED psu connections.

Step 6 - POST
Hook up the keyboard, mouse and monitor, plug in the psu and fire it up. Did you get 1 beep and see the bios screen flash? If so it is looking good for you.

Now turn it off. unplug the psu, then monitor, mouse and keyboard. Fix that mess you call wiring. Use the electric tape and wire ties. This is not just for the visual of it. It will help your air flow as well.

Hook it all back up and enter into the bios. check your cpu temps. If the cpu temps are over 60c in the bios something is not right, turn it off and gently tighten the cpu's heatsink. try again. once you are stable in bios turn of the computer and DO NOT mess with it for 20 hours. The AS5 needs that time to fully cure.

Congrats you did it!

Now you will need to adjust the bios, this info is in the mobo mannual, since you have 20 hours to fix the wiring and read , no problems. Then install your operating system, update everything drivers bios the works. Install your software.

Last thing, gently brag about your creation and shun pre-built computers,you now have the right.
 
It may sound complex, from Zamial's writeup, but that's only because you aren't looking at the parts and whatnot. After you're done you will wonder to yourself how you never did it before.

Nice writeup btw Zamial.
 
Currently as far as CPUs go the i5 2500K is the best choice. There are faster processors but AMD does not make any of them. The current state of AMD is a disaster. There no reason to not make a high end machine with $1500.

Video card is usually the limiting factor in a gaming rig. With the i5 it certainly will be. I'd go with a single HD 6970 or a GTX 560 ti. Multi GPUs are just an extra PIA. It's always better to get the best single card for what your willing to spend. If you have a mobo that supports it you can add another card down the road. That's what I did. I got a 4870 when it came out and about a year ago found another one used for dirt cheap. The performance is there but it can heat a small room pretty well.

You have got to get a SSD drive. You still want a big hard drive but getting your most used programs on a solid state drive is the most dramatic improvement you can buy.

Go over to Anandtech, read the sickies and ask some questions. The guys over there will love to help you through a great build.
 
Malticulous said:
You have got to get a SSD drive. You still want a big hard drive but getting your most used programs on a solid state drive is the most dramatic improvement you can buy.

+1
However, I would not install anything on it but the bear necessities for the OS. Even with leveling, SSD drives have finite amount of writes they can take (read operations are far and away the biggest OS use of the primary drive). Limiting the applications to a good HDD will also save space letting you get a smaller SSD for considerable $$ savings. Be sure to have your OS make images of your SSD drive regularly. When it go t1ts up you can re-image the replacement drive and carry on.

FWIW, you can use symbolic links to "fool" your apps if they just MUST install on the primary drive, as Steam used to require.
 
Zamial said:
Good greif...

I did not read the other replies so this may or may not have been covered already...

1st off this is the WAY WRONG TIME to get a new computer and here is why... Windows 8 is going to be released shortly. Windows 8 will ONLY be released in 2 versions 64 bit and 128 bit. Currently we only have 32 bit and 64 bit operating systems and chips availible to purchase. In a nut shell there is going to be a brand new chip series released 128 bit and 32 bit systems will go the way of the dinosaurs. When this happens the price of the 64 bit hardware is gonna drop like a rock off a cliff. So in short even if you do not want a 128 bit system the 64 bit stuff is going to get REAL cheap at that time.

This is also good news for the maccers out there because finnially the mac OS will get to run in it's native 128 bit OS (that is what mac was originally written for) in short I suggest to wait a few months.

Next up, if you build it yourself you will save a bunch of cash. I know it can be scarey to think about building a computer with no help. Lucky for you (and anyone else that is reading this) I already wrote a guide!

Now that you have read Moriz guide to parts, spent your hard earned money and are trying to figure out how this all goes together. Your scared that you are going to mess something up. No fears, this is the guide for you. It is going to walk you through, very basically on assembly and take you to POST.

Note: This is a guide. I am not responsible for bad parts or parts you have broken, please use common sense. Please read it all 1st then go through the steps.

KEY
cpu = chip.
psu = power supply
mobo = mother board
gpu = graphics card
AS5 = Arctic Silver 5

Set-up.

The 1st thing you need is tools. No fear they are not very expensive. A NON MAGNETIC philps screwdriver and NONMAGNETIC small needle nose pliers. A PSU tester/jumper (less than $5.00). 1 clean piece of corrugated cardboard (about 16 in x 16 in), 1 can of air/ duster, a small tube of AS5. I am going to strongly suggest an anti-static wrist strap, it is not totally needed but I do not want you to fry your new parts. A roll of electric tape and/or wire ties, a deck of playing cards, paper towels, utility knife, pen, paper and lastly a folder.

Work Area: A room that is not “super dry” (this can be extra troublesome in the winter months) and has NO carpeting. A clean table, a chair, good lighting. A basement if available is perfect, as long as there is no standing water. Do not eat/drink in your work area or have food/drink on your work table. If you need any food or drink take a break.

Mind set: Yes, you can do this! This is not a race. Slow and steady is better than having to do things over (especially when you think your all done!)

Prep: Print this guide! (If it is to be published/redistributed I do ask that you ask my permission 1st.) Put the cardboard on the table, so edges do not hang off. It needs to be bigger than the mother board 16 in x 16 in is perfect. Lay out your tools on table. Put your UNOPENED parts on the floor near the table. Wash and dry your hands. Grab a seat…….

Here we go!

Step 1 – unpacking and inspection

Start opening your boxes. Inspect every part for obvious defects, hit it with the duster/canned air, placing them on the table afterwards. Put the mobo on the cardboard. NOTE: do not hold canned air upside down or at close range to the part. Do NOT touch any connections with your fingers or blow the part of with your breath! Take all documents and disks, put them into the folder. This is also a prime time to cut of the upc’s off of the boxes and store the receipts. Warranties, rebates will need/want this info. Graphic cards serial #’s are most often on the card. Grab your pen and paper write it down. Set the folder off to the side but keep it close.

Step 2 – planning + testing

Open up the computer case and try and get a good image of what goes where. Think about wire management. A rats nest (no offense Snog ) of wires makes for bad air flow, and harder to work on, not to mention not impressive to show off. Ok, close up the case and set it aside, you wont be using it for a good while.

Now grab the PSU and the jumper/tester. Put the jumper on and plug the psu in. Make sure the fans spin, (LED lights come on if it has them) and there was no “poof” of smoke. Unplug it set it aside.

Step 3 – assembly

Now we are going to assemble the the basic computer outside the case. I find it easier to do it this way, if I run into troubles I do not need to rip it all apart. If you have the anti-static wrist strap get it on, and attach it to its pad or the case.
Lets start with the cpu. All modern cpu's are ZIF (zero insertion force) on the mobo there is normally a protective plate (plastic) where the cpu goes. open the retaining latch and remove that piece of plastic. Then on the chip there is normally also a protective cover remove it and look for the triangle in 1 corner, where the chip goes on the mobo there is usually a mark in a corner on the mobo socket. Set the chip in place. (if your chip has a bunch of little pins be careful not to touch them or bend them.) lock the chip in place.
Now it is time for the ram. You will see (on the ram) there is a few "notches" on the edge with the contacts. Once again do not touch the contacts. Look into the ram slot, you should see corresponding little "humps". Push the locks away from the ram slot and gently push the ram into position until the locks come up and lock the ram into place. (It is a good Idea to read the mobo manual to find out what slots need to be populated with ram. Normally there will be 2 of 1 color and 2 of another.)
Next, we will install the cpu cooler. Some aftermarket coolers are big, really big. It can be troublesome to get the ram in with 1 of those but we did that already. Now get your paper towels, playing cards, and arctic silver. The arctic silver will come out very thick. Put a small rice sized bead on the cpu. now take your playing card(s) and as best as possible spread it out to just before the edge of the chip. ***IMPORTANT*** AS5 conducts electricity do not get it on ANYTHING other than the top of the cpu and the heat sink surface!!!!!! Use paper towels, if you need a little more use a little more. Next repeat this for the heatsink surface that will touch the chip. Thin but not so that you can see through it. Now line up the heat sink and attach it. (If it has screws, don't reef on it, take them just a small ways past the squish. When you think it is on good give it a little twist does it move really easy on the cpu? if not, your good; if so, just a little tighter. hook up the power cord for the fan to the correct place on the mobo, consult mobo manual for this.

NOTE: At this point get the mobo manual and your case. Set the case next to the mobo so that you can hook up the power button leads. This will vary on cases and motherboards so read the manual.

Step 4 - basic POST test.

Hook up a keyboard and mouse, then the PSU. Plug the psu up to the mobo but not to a socket. Last minute check, check that the ram is in, the cpu is stable. Now plug in the psu (you may need an extension cord) with a surge protector power strip. Then push the power button. In a few seconds you should hear 1 beep If not something is not right. Power the machine down by holding the power button in until it dies. You do not need a monitor for this test. unplug the psu from the surge protector and hold the power button in for 15 seconds, this will discharge the components. Disconnect the psu from the mobo. unplug any cords from the mobo to the case.

*no post or multiple / strange beeps.* Not to worry unless you had a big poof of smoke(very, very rare). If there was smoke you will be RMAing all those parts but the cpu cooler and the psu. If you have a noise that sounds like a demon gasping for its last breath, the ram is bad. If you are getting multiple beeps check the mobo manual, it will have beep codes in it normally in the back. (you may need to call support at this point for some help.)

Step 5 - into the case.

Now grab your case and mount the psu in it. Your mobo should have came with a plate for the back of the case, I suggest you use the 1 that comes with the mobo, not the case. Next mount the harddrive(s) and the disk player/burner (we are just mounting at this point don't hook anything up to the psu yet). Next lay the case on its side and mount the mobo. *BE VARY CAREFUL, DO NOT LET THE SCREW DRIVER SLIP, it can vary easily scratch and destroy the motherboard.* I suggest you use the needle nose pliers to start the mobomounting screws, or to "retrieve" a fallen/dropped screw. next rehook up the power buttons, case fans, and the rest of the cables and wires along with the UNPLUGGED psu conn,.......................

I zoned out at windows. Lol all kidding aside great post, u have more time and patience than I.

Sent from my Galaxy S 4G using Home Brew Talk for Android
 
Zamial said:
1st off this is the WAY WRONG TIME to get a new computer and here is why... Windows 8 is going to be released shortly. Windows 8 will ONLY be released in 2 versions 64 bit and 128 bit. Currently we only have 32 bit and 64 bit operating systems and chips availible to purchase. In a nut shell there is going to be a brand new chip series released 128 bit and 32 bit systems will go the way of the dinosaurs. When this happens the price of the 64 bit hardware is gonna drop like a rock off a cliff. So in short even if you do not want a 128 bit system the 64 bit stuff is going to get REAL cheap at that time.

I did not read the rest of the install guide. But to the lay readers out there, I would say the above analysis is flawed, at best. I did some googling to see if I missed anything and I could not find one authoritative source to corroborate the Win8 128b assertions or even it's release "shortly". There are also no data on price trends to support the assertion that the cost of new 64 b hardware will drop like a rock any time soon. That's not how it works now or has worked it he past.

If you need/want a computer today, Buy and build to fit what your needs are <i>today</i> There will ALWAYS big bigger, better, moar moar moar just around the corner. Don't get wrapped up in trying to future proof yourself. IMHO

Sent from my iPad using HB Talk
 
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