Foaming issue with keg

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Nov 20, 2015
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What's up guys I'm here today because I have a question about my kegging system that I installed. So I'm sure some of you know about this issue and that issue is the foaming when poured into a glass. I got about a half a glass of foam to be there if not a little bit more.

I got all of my equipment at the home beer supply shop so therefore I assume I have all of the right equipment. My beer line is about 9 feet long and serving pressure is about 10 psi. I have the temperature probe dangling Reading the ambient temperature at about 28°F (I previously had it taped to the side of the keg itself). I do not have a fan circulating the air inside.

Any ideas on what I can do?
What is the inside diameter of the beer line? You want it to be 3/16", but I think a lot of LHBS carry 1/4", which can be problematic.

A beer that has foamed excessively during the pour will be flat because most of the CO2 came out of the beer during the pour, resulting in the excess foam.
sounds like you need longer line. I used the calculators which say I need like 12' of 3/16 line at 38F and 11psi, but after trial and error I found I get a pour I like with a line leght of 25'.

Also i once had a problem keg that always foamed like a bastard, eventually took off the dip tube poppet and saw the LHBS where I bought it had screwed a piece of the spring from the universal poppit into the threads for the post so I was pulling air when pouring, so double check your connections down to the nitty-gritty if it's only one keg your having issues with.
I've had problems with beer foaming when it is too cold. Sounds odd I know but I looked it up and read that at multiple place. Try bumping your beer up to 38 (apparently that's the golden number)
I'm sure you don't want to hear it as most don't but.....
If you just got it...return it

Get a sanke keg, 5 ft lines that come with every tower and a flow control tap and enjoy hassle free perfect pours forever...

Corny kegs were made for soda
Sanke kegs for beer
I am BY FAR the odd man out with sanke kegs because its not the "homebrew thing to do"....but trust me....the system works better as it was designed for beer.

Otherwise up the temp to 38 make sure you have GOOD lines,not sure what the LHBS sold you, they make a difference....don't have any low spot in the line coil them up on the keg
we all like cold beer but 28 seems real low...I actually think the floavor comes out more in a warmer don't get that "zing" of an ice cold beer that mutes the flavor
The reason I have it so low is because the temp of the actual beer is warmer inside the keg than it is outside of the keg so I am trying to compensate for it. People suggest fans inside the keezer but do you really need a fan to continuously circulate the air? Besides if I set The temperature to 38° all of that cold air (which it already does at 28) will sink to the bottom thus increasing the temperature higher up in the chest freezer. I knew this was going to be a lot of work going in but damn this is frustrating I don't want to give up either.are there any thermometers or temp controllers that can be placed directly inside of the keg? Also I will try out the calculator thanks guys
+1 on the longer lines. I have 5' on both my kegs (corney kegs BTW) and each pour is perfect. Also, my temp is a little lower than 38 degrees, at 36 degrees, and I don't see any difference in each pour.
Re temp control, I have my sensor in a large amount of water and not just hanging loosely, with the thought being it will regulate to "liquid temp" and not the air temp and the liquid in he leg will be the same as the liquid in the jug of water.

Edit to add: I also use a cheap computer fan. The fan and power supply were dirt cheap on Amazon. I think it's an 8" fan or there abouts.
There's probably a large temperature change like what has been alluded to already. When your fridge is at 28 and your shank is sitting at 50 that's a 22 degree temp change. That's going to significantly reduce the solubility of CO2 in the beer and drive it out of solution (get foamy). If your fridge/beer is at 38 that's only a 12 degree change. I would say this may be your problem (poor circulation of cold air) if you get foamy pours continuously, as in two-three pints in a row).

In order to counteract that larger temp change you would need longer lines (someone said 25' earlier) to get the beer to flow through slower. Essentially letting the temp change drive CO2 out of the beer and create a head instead of agitation from hitting the glass at speed.
Hey guys curious (and dont mean to hijack) but for those that have 5' lines could you share a picture of your routing inside your kegerators/keezers?