Fly Vs. Batch Sparging

[Holzster]

I searched the forums but could not find out about the question that I could see, so if it was covered before I am sorry.

I been some Extract & BIAB brewing for a LONG time now, but wanted to start going total in all grain. I know the difference between batch & fly sparging but have a couple questions before I decide witch Lauter Tun to make.

1. With batch sparging I can use the cheaper rectangle cooler, but I know this way is a little bit less efficient that fly sparging. IN a normal 5 Gallon batch would adding just a little more grain make up for this or is the difference really not that much?

2. Fly sparging - If I want a total of 7 gallons for a 5 gallon batch Can I just keep fly sparging as it is Lautering into my brew kettle till I get to the 7 gallon make then just stop? Or do I need to calculate the water needed & send that volume thought so no liquid is left in the Lauter tun at the end?

3. Are the spinning sprinkler fly spargers work as good as they seem to be or are the a gimmick?

thanks again.

 

[Demus]

Fly sparging takes more equipment and time for just a few percentage points higher efficiency. If you don't do it right you might not even get that. Your idea of just adding a little extra grain would absolutely do the trick. Stopping at 7 gallons would certainly get you, well 7 gallons but not necessarily the right gravity. If you get higher efficiency that expected, your gravity will be high. Lower efficiency will be lower gravity. You can just sparge more, but then you'll have more water to boil off. Either way you don't want to sparge more than what gets your run-off to below 1.020 as you will start to extract tannins from the grain husks. It's much easier to waste a pound or two of base malt ($2 or so) and sparge to your target number of gravity points, then just add water to get to your 7 gallons...

 

[alane1]

to answer no.2 generally as a rule of thumb you would use the same amount of water to sparge as you would to mash at a 1.25qt of water to 1 lb. of grain ratio.to continue fly sparging past this point would likely result in tannin extraction.

 

[Holzster]

Thanks both for the quick response.

 

[LuiInIdaho]

1. For Batch Sparging, many people have an efficiency that will equal that of fly sparging. Much of this would be dependent upon your equipment and technique. However, adding a bit more grain will alway make up for the decreased efficiency (if this is the case) because of batch sparging.

Denny Conn has some thoughts on the matter. His comments can be found here.

2. With fly sparging, you can sparge longer to get more sugars extracted from the grain. However, there is a limit and the limit might not be the number of gallons that you use. You will want to monitor the specific gravity of your wort runnings to determine when you should quit. I am not sure of the exact lower limit on the gravity, but I am pretty sure that if you continue to fly sparge when your gravity is 1.010 or lower, you risk extracting tannins into the wort. It has to do with the Ph of the wort.

3. I can't comment on the different apparatus for fly sparging. I batch sparge. Having said that, you can use false bottoms, stainless braids from water supply lines (for toilets or hot water tanks), or use a manifold for Batch Sparging. If you fly sparge, you are better off with a false bottom or perhaps a manifold.

I hope that this helps.

Mark

 

[david_42]

3. That's what is used in commercial operations. But they are spreading water over a much larger area. As Mark points out, for homebrewers the manifold at the bottom is much more important.

 

[sudbuster]

I searched the forums but could not find out about the question that I could see, so if it was covered before I am sorry.

This is an OLD, old topic on HBT and other HB forums. It has been the source of much disention. But, after much experimentation, has mostly been put to rest, except by new brewers. To be concise, either method, properly conducted, will produce worts of equal quality with equal efficiency. So, choose your poison and allow others the same privalege.

 

[Jaybird]

This is an OLD, old topic on HBT and other HB forums. It has been the source of much disention. But, after much experimentation, has mostly been put to rest, except by new brewers. To be concise, either method, properly conducted, will produce worts of equal quality with equal efficiency. So, choose your poison and allow others the same privalege.

Really? We have talked about this here on HBT? Never have I ever...LOL

jkjkjk

 

[martiniw2olives]

Holzter,

I have found this to be an excellent tool. It's never let me down.

http://www.brew365.com/mash_sparge_water_calculator.php

 

[Holzster]

Martiniw2olives - I use BeerSmith - does it all for me - I never needed the Mash tab - but now - I am finding the greatness in that program!!

But thanks for the link - will be nice to calculate stuff on the fly!!

 

[Holzster]

Martiniw2olives - I use BeerSmith - does it all for me - I never needed the Mash tab - but now - I am finding the greatness in that program!!

But thanks for the link - will be nice to calculate stuff on the fly!!