Fly sparging question

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Wables

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This is probably a simple question, but I need to ask it anyway. I am planning on switching from batch to fly sparging, and have no fly sparging experience. My question is do you stop your hot water flow to the top of the MLT early so you can collect all of the wort from the MLT? If I want to get 13 gallons in my kettle, will I need to add 13 gallons of sparge water, or 10?

Thanks!
 
Sparge water volume won't change, just the means by which you sparge changes. Instead of draining the MLT completely, then filling it with sparge water, you drain it slowly with a constant gentle sprinkle of sparge water over the top of the mash. Ideally, the drain rate equals the sparge water flow rate, so that the volume of liquid in the mash tun remains constant until you're out of sparge water.
 
Yuri_Rage said:
Sparge water volume won't change, just the means by which you sparge changes.

So, what you are saying is when I am done sparging I will not have 1" of water above the grain, the MLT will be drained of all of the liquid. Is this correct?
 
When you are done fly sparging all the wort will be in the boil kettle. Same as when you are done batch sparging. When you're done, you're done.

Just think of it as a continuous sparge rather than a 2 step sparge as with batch sparging.
 
Wables said:
So, what you are saying is when I am done sparging I will not have 1" of water above the grain, the MLT will be drained of all of the liquid. Is this correct?
Generally speaking, the mash tun will be dry when you're done.

If you miscalculate the sparge water volume, you can collect enough wort and still have some liquid left in the mash tun. That is true with batch sparging as well. In this case, it's worth measuring the pre-boil gravity to see whether there's anything to be gained by continuing to collect the runnings and boiling off the excess volume later.
 
I use a phils sparge arm.

While it takes longer... I like the fact I can just "monitor" and have a home brew.. instead of adding and recirculating.... and I do mash out and vorlaf before I start my sparge (fyi) :)

do you have cooler setup for your MLT? What are you using for your HLT?
I have a 2 cooler setup both with ball values... and it is pretty easy to get the flow the same. on the in and the out flow.

What are you planning on using for your fly?

There are people here who swear by batch sparging... and I am sure it works awesome cause I admire most of those that use it...
I just saw phills arm for like 25$ and I was like .. hell I am in for 400$ already .. what is another 25$...

That is how I got here... ha!

Give up more of your thoughts and your setup ...

T
 
tgrier said:
do you have cooler setup for your MLT? What are you using for your HLT?
I have a 2 cooler setup both with ball values... and it is pretty easy to get the flow the same. on the in and the out flow.
T

Right now I am using a keggle to boil, an 8 1/2 gal turkey fryer pot for an HLT, and I have 34 and 70 qt coleman extreme coolers with manifolds for mashing. I batch sparge both 5 and 10 gallon batches.

I have 2 more keggles converted for a HLT and MLT, and I am waiting on a false bottom. I also have a March pump. My brew stand is a 2 tier with 3 burners. I have attached an older picture. I have added a control pannel with individual burner controls, ignition, and pump control. My plan is to have the top tier the MLT, and pump the sparge water up to it, and gravity flow down to the boil kettle. I will be doing constant recirculation with direct heat to the MLT for temperature control.

BrewStand001.jpg
 
Bobby_M said:
Well, if you stick with batch sparging you can make that a single tier. Why would you give up the simplicity of batch sparging? What do you intend to gain?
To each his own. I enjoy fly sparging so I don't understand why someone would choose to batch sparge.
 
I'm speaking from the perspective of a batch sparger having success wondering why a fellow batch sparger is deciding to defect. It seems that most people that try batch hardly every try fly. I know flying works for a lot people.
 
I generally fly sparge, and batch sparge only when I'm pushed for time.
I don't see what purpose is served by completely draining the mash tun when fly sparging. It just takes longer than necessary as the outflow will reduce and the grain bed gets more compacted as the water level decreases. You don't lose any measurable efficiency if you stop sparging when the gravity gets down to 1.010, as that is the gravity at the bottom of the tun. The water still percolating through the grain bed has an even lower gravity. I usually end up with a gallon or so of water in the tun at the end of the sparge, and don't notice any bad effects.

-a.
 
Cuz it takes me 10-15 minutes and I get about 80% efficiency. That's why I batch sparge.
 
Let's quit the batch vs fly debate and help Wables with further questions. He didn't ask which was better, he simply asked how to accomplish a brew method that's unfamiliar to him.

I'm sure he wants to see if one method works better for him than another with regard to any number of variables. It's not up to us to sway him from trying something different to see how it works out.
 
(Sparging as I type) My procedure is to keep about 1" above the grain bed throughout the entire runnings capture. You don't typically let it run dry (at least not that I ever heard of). Just keep the water above until you capture the volume you are after.

In a 5.5 gl batch I typically shoot for about 7-8gl to the boil pot and after I'm at 6 gl I will check the runnings gravity. If you happened to be < 1.012 you'd stop the HLT water and then let it drain so not to dillute it further. Usually at 6g I'm still at about 1.020 however so I go for another 1g and then turn the arm off and get my last 1g by letting it drain.

I also do not do a mash out but my sparge water is at about 170 to compensate for the heat loss of the sprinkler. I toss a towel over the tun. I'm shooting for the grist to remain at about same as the rest temp. Calculating specific HLT volume really isn't necessary with this process; as long as you got more than enough. I start with 8g just to be sure and because the arm slows down its spin too much when it gets low in the HLT
 
I use a Phil Sparger over a 10 gallon Rubbermaid cooler with a stainless false bottom that I use as my mash tun - it is what came with my Norther Brewer 'Deluxe All-Grain Kit' that I bought.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/pics/fullsize/deluxe-ags-10.jpg

I do not do a mash-out and always allow for more sparge water than I need. I add 175 degree water to my pre-heated HLT which is another 10 gallon Rubbermaid cooler. I try to keep about 1/2" of water on top of the grain bed. I sparge for 1 hour to collect the 7.75 gallons of wort that I need for my 90 minute boils. About every 10 minutes I use a piece of 12" 1/8" rod to gently 'break-up' the grain bed in an effort to eliminate any channeling.

Oh, and I crush my own grain using a standard, non-adjustable JSP MALTMILL while I'm waiting for my mash water to reach it's strike temperature. My efficiencies usually fall between 80 - 88%.

I'm very happy with my set-up and have no plans to change anything.

Hope this helps.

- GL63
 
GrantLee63 said:
I use a Phil Sparger over a 10 gallon Rubbermaid cooler with a stainless false bottom that I use as my mash tun - it is what came with my Norther Brewer 'Deluxe All-Grain Kit' that I bought.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/pics/fullsize/deluxe-ags-10.jpg

I do not do a mash-out and always allow for more sparge water than I need. I add 175 degree water to my pre-heated HLT which is another 10 gallon Rubbermaid cooler. I try to keep about 1/2" of water on top of the grain bed. I sparge for 1 hour to collect the 7.75 gallons of wort that I need for my 90 minute boils. About every 10 minutes I use a piece of 12" 1/8" rod to gently 'break-up' the grain bed in an effort to eliminate any channeling.

Oh, and I crush my own grain using a standard, non-adjustable JSP MALTMILL while I'm waiting for my mash water to reach it's strike temperature. My efficiencies usually fall between 80 - 88%.

I'm very happy with my set-up and have no plans to change anything.

Hope this helps.

- GL63


i like the idea of breaking up the grain for channeling,

Nick
 
Yuri_Rage said:
Let's quit the batch vs fly debate and help Wables with further questions. He didn't ask which was better, he simply asked how to accomplish a brew method that's unfamiliar to him.

I'm sure he wants to see if one method works better for him than another with regard to any number of variables. It's not up to us to sway him from trying something different to see how it works out.

Geez, I wasn't intending to start a debate. I have done 20+ batches using the batch sparge technique, except for the slow runnoff in my last 3 batches due to a finer crush I have been happy.

I have a few reasons for moving to fly sparging. One is better efficiency. I do buy my grain in bulk so this isn't much of an issue. But I am thrifty. Another is to see if I can get my efficiency to be more consistent. I just poured my father out of my house because my 4.5 to 5% house ale hit over 6% because my efficiency was 86% instead of 75% and I missed my target temperature low by almost 4 degrees. Finally, it will be neat to try somthing new with very little investment as I already have a pump.

I may go back to batch sparging after a batch or two. I don't know yet, but I like having some flexibility. My brew setup should handle both with equal ease.

Thanks for all of the responses to my original question about water level at the end of the sparge. Have a Merry Christmas!
 
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