Flow Control Disconnects

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BeerHolic

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I have has some bad feedback and good feedback from research on web as the use of flow control disconnects for corny keg.
What is the opinion of fellow keggers ?.
If using flow control disconnects what model / brand are you using ?.
Are disconnects a universal size ? i.e. will fit any corny keg ?.
 
Corny disconnects are universal on the keg side, but can vary as to what their outlet is.

I use the steel flow control disconnects from kegland, and actually find they work really well, with a couple of minor things to note.

The good:
1. The steel disconnects have the standard 1/4” MFL flare fitting on them same as black/grey plastic discos so you can swap them straight out.

2. They work well! I run the very restrictive 3/16” beer line from them, but I only use what I need to get to the tap shank (around 2 feet of line), and it’s very flexible. I can adjust a pour to work with a light lager at 3 volumes of CO2. With my first beer from the keg I start off with the disconnect nearly off and give it 1/8 turn until I get a nice flow without too much foaming.

The bad:
1. As they’re metal they can be problematic with odd post tolerances. Sometimes a cold disconnect will not go on to a warm keg post as the slight changes in size due to metal expansion/contraction.

2. Under really high pressure they have been known to blow out the poppet seal. Not happened to me yet.

3. There’s an extra seal in them you need to keep an eye on - the MFL connector screws into the main body and has an o ring to seal that gap. When I got my disconnects this was missing on one of them, and it leaked out most of a keg of beer before I found it.
Partly my fault for not checking for leaks and leaving the gas on. The seal came with the disconnect but wasn’t installed.
When this happened to me someone at my homebrew club said he’d had that seal leak too.


I’m considering moving to the plastic flow control disconnects from kegland. They’re cheaper, and don’t have the issues I’ve listed above, but they might have others.
The problem for me is that they only have a 5/16” connector on them, meaning I’d need to replace my beer lines and shank adapters too.
 
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My experience with the non-flow-control Duotight disconnects is that they are problematic compared to CMB disconnects:
  • there are some keg posts they won't fit over, and
  • the liquid disconnect doesn't always disengage correctly (so you remove the disconnect and liquid jets out)
I wouldn't get more than one, to make sure it works with your system.
 
I replaced 2 Intertap flow control faucets with the Kegland plastic flow control disconnects and they work much better in my experience. I ended up replacing all of my disconnects with the plastic flow control ones and am happy with the results. I find that they are particularly good when using a Jockey Box, because you don't have to use the CO2 regulator pressure to adjust the pour. I also like how easy they are to disassemble and clean and the fact that evabarrier hose fits into the disconnect without the need for hose barbs, clamps, threaded fittings etc.
 
Someone had a bear of a time turning the knob on those Kegland disconnects recently. The Kegland rep said they were machine assembled so maybe they need to tweak the load sensors on that robot :)

Cheers!
 
Someone had a bear of a time turning the knob on those Kegland disconnects recently. The Kegland rep said they were machine assembled so maybe they need to tweak the load sensors on that robot :)

Cheers!
Never had that problem - have found them easy to take apart and clean
 
I'm gonna order some of those Duotight flow control ones I posted. Right now I have like 10ft lines and secondary CO2 regulator for each faucet.

I'm guessing with these I could just go with short lines and a single regulator & psi setting for all my kegs. Just dial each tap in so not to get the right pours?
 
I'm gonna order some of those Duotight flow control ones I posted. Right now I have like 10ft lines and secondary CO2 regulator for each faucet.

I'm guessing with these I could just go with short lines and a single regulator & psi setting for all my kegs. Just dial each tap in so not to get the right pours?
The advantage you'll get is you can have much shorter lines and they can all stay the same length.

If you want different carbonation in each of your kegs you'll still need the secondaries to help vary the input pressure. The flow control disconnects just let you balance the line to the pressure so you minimise foaming.

If you're happy with all your kegs at the same pressure you can get rid of your secondaries.
 
well I have anything from a pub ale to a hefe on tap. so a wide range of carbonation.

no one tap is dedicated to a style. whatever keg pops...the next keg of whatever that is ready goes in it's place.
 
well I have anything from a pub ale to a hefe on tap. so a wide range of carbonation.

no one tap is dedicated to a style. whatever keg pops...the next keg of whatever that is ready goes in it's place.
Same as my keezer setup - you will need secondaries then.

The flow control disconnects just make line balancing easier - you keep all your lines the same length and adjust the disconnect to balance the line.
 
i couldnt get my lines balanced and my foam under control before i got my duotight flow control. that thing is idiot proof. it pours a little slow but perfect everytime. its also a little bulky . i also picked up the picnic tap 2.1 and after it chilled for a day in the kegerator it pours perfect also. and very low profile . the only con is that when you first open and close it it causes a little more foam than expected and you have to adjust for that while you pour. i was expecting it to have flow control but it automatically adjusts there's no actual "control" to it. still it pours perfect pints of beer . i love them . ill try to post some pours later from the duotight flow control via a picnic tap and from the picnic tap 2.1
 
Same as my keezer setup - you will need secondaries then.

The flow control disconnects just make line balancing easier - you keep all your lines the same length and adjust the disconnect to balance the line.
I have secondaries already. and 10ft lines.

was hoping to simplify the plumbing a little.

guess best I can do is to shorten the lines. not even worth the effort?
 
I have secondaries already. and 10ft lines.

was hoping to simplify the plumbing a little.

guess best I can do is to shorten the lines. not even worth the effort?
It was worth it for me to not have loads of beer line in my crowded keezer and to avoid the guesswork of matching beer line length to match the carbonation of the beer being served.
 
A little thread bump here. I've been considering for a while now to get a Perlick flow control faucet and an adapter to mount it to the ball lock on top of the keg. It'd be $100 or even a little more. Are these Duotights about as good? They are certainly cheaper. I don't mind spending for the Perlick if it's better, but it does have to be better.

Right now it's ball lock to EVABarrier circled around the keg a few times, ending in a picnic tap. I am ready to move up!
 
I appreciate the reply. I'm at a point where I find it hard to clean my long EVABarrier lines. I can either find a really long brush, replace them every so often, or go to something like a faucet mounted to the keg directly.

I'd very much like to mount directly to the keg! I'm just skeptical about even the flow control faucets controlling the foam. I know they are supposed to , but every other faucet I've tried (not flow control) were of course awful. As for the flow controllers it seems like every good review is met with a bad one, so...
 
Experience is that you can make it work by attaching a flow control disconnect and a flow control tap direct to a keg, but they are ultra sensitive to any changes.

As for cleaning your beer lines, how often do you find they're dirty? EVABarrier should be quite resistant to build up, and a good quality beer line cleaner run through it every few months should keep them like new. Definitely no need to scrub them.
 
I use the metal kegland(?) flow control disconnect and the shortest possible line for seltzer. I find that it works *better* than flow control via line length, as even with 4mm ID line for seltzer I have to choose between foaming in the line (longer line) or too much pressure head at the tap and foam in the glass (shorter line). I have to set the flow on the disconnect to just a trickle and it takes half a minute for a pour, but at least I retain practically all carbonation in the glass, which I find very necessary for hard seltzer to be palatable.

Those disconnects are very prone to leaking, and you have to seat them just right. Some months ago I mopped up the keezer; it's less fun than what it sounds like.

For beer etc. I use line length as the flow control tool, because it's easier than fighting with the flow control disconnects.
 
Experience is that you can make it work by attaching a flow control disconnect and a flow control tap direct to a keg, but they are ultra sensitive to any changes.

As for cleaning your beer lines, how often do you find they're dirty? EVABarrier should be quite resistant to build up, and a good quality beer line cleaner run through it every few months should keep them like new. Definitely no need to scrub them.
I pulled a line off of an Imperial stout that was in the frig for the last 3 months or so. It's got something built up in it, probably standard yeast type sediment that would usually be on the bottom of the keg but has made its way around.

I bought more line, will just change it every so often for now, and research the flow control taps a bit more.

I could run cleaner through it but "these days" that sounds like extra work I won't have time to finally get around to doing.
 
If you use flow control disconnects or taps then you can use much less beer line, and just change the line if you get any build up in it.

Although to be honest any time I've had a bit of yeast sediment in the line it's just been blown out as soon as I start running beer through it again.
 
I have the Kegland flow controls in place. Been swapping out as each keg gets replaced. Last 2 got done the past few days so now all 3 taps are flow controls with 3 ft EVA lines.

I have a saison at 12psi, brown ale at 6psi, and cali common lager at 10psi.

The guys are coming over tonight for cigars and beer. Will see how they pour and report results.
 
Good luck.

Best process I've found is to pour half a pint so the whole system is cold, then adjust for subsequent half pints in 1/8th turn increments.
 
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