Corny disconnects are universal on the keg side, but can vary as to what their outlet is.
I use the steel flow control disconnects from kegland, and actually find they work really well, with a couple of minor things to note.
1. The steel disconnects have the standard 1/4” MFL flare fitting on them same as black/grey plastic discos so you can swap them straight out.
2. They work well! I run the very restrictive 3/16” beer line from them, but I only use what I need to get to the tap shank (around 2 feet of line), and it’s very flexible. I can adjust a pour to work with a light lager at 3 volumes of CO2. With my first beer from the keg I start off with the disconnect nearly off and give it 1/8 turn until I get a nice flow without too much foaming.
1. As they’re metal they can be problematic with odd post tolerances. Sometimes a cold disconnect will not go on to a warm keg post as the slight changes in size due to metal expansion/contraction.
2. Under really high pressure they have been known to blow out the poppet seal. Not happened to me yet.
3. There’s an extra seal in them you need to keep an eye on - the MFL connector screws into the main body and has an o ring to seal that gap. When I got my disconnects this was missing on one of them, and it leaked out most of a keg of beer before I found it.
Partly my fault for not checking for leaks and leaving the gas on. The seal came with the disconnect but wasn’t installed.
When this happened to me someone at my homebrew club said he’d had that seal leak too.
I’m considering moving to the plastic flow control disconnects from kegland. They’re cheaper, and don’t have the issues I’ve listed above, but they might have others.
The problem for me is that they only have a 5/16” connector on them, meaning I’d need to replace my beer lines and shank adapters too.