First time brewer (Update: 10/6)

[mjasinski30]

Hey guys! Just started my first home brew yesterday. I’m doing a kit from Brewer’s Best. Probably too ambitious for the first brew but I picked their whiskey barrel stout. I woke up this morning to find it is fermenting rather vigorously. Here’s a picture but the foam is coming out the airlock. I cleaned and refilled the airlock but wanted to know if anyone has ever seen this or had it happen and what it means for the brew. Thanks!

Update: It’s been 3 days since I started fermenting and after some vigorous fermentation, the bubbles have stopped. I was expecting more like Wed. or Thur. Should I go ahead and move it to the second fermenter to add the whiskey barrel chips or give it some more time? Thanks!

 

[Abhishek Dewan]

First brew is something you’d always remember. Yes blow offs do happen and can be reduced by doing a few things- use bigger fermenter or don’t fill beyond 75%; use blow off tube with one end in a bigger container filled with water or sanitizer solution for initial period of 3 days etc. Also, maintaining right temperature for fermentation is very important, don’t ferment at very high temperatures. Good luck, it’ll turn out just fine.

 

[mjasinski30]

First brew is something you’d always remember. Yes blow offs do happen and can be reduced by doing a few things- use bigger fermenter or don’t fill beyond 75%; use blow off tube with one end in a bigger container filled with water or sanitizer solution for initial period of 3 days etc. Also, maintaining right temperature for fermentation is very important, don’t ferment at very high temperatures. Good luck, it’ll turn out just fine.

Thanks! It’s fermenting in the low 70s so hopefully that will work out. I didn’t think I filled the bucket too much, but I’ll be more careful next time. Thanks for the encouragement.

 

[Ultryx]

@mjasinski30 take this opportunity to buy yourself some tubing for a blowoff setup. You may need it in the future, but otherwise, everything @Abhishek Dewan said is right!

 

[Maxkling]

Thanks! It’s fermenting in the low 70s so hopefully that will work out. I didn’t think I filled the bucket too much, but I’ll be more careful next time. Thanks for the encouragement.

What yeast, if the room is in the low 70’s then it very well may be in the high 70’s inside the vessel causing a vigorous fermentation which can lead to off flavors.

 

[bracconiere]

but wanted to know if anyone has ever seen this or had it happen

no? that looks gross! and you're going to drink that?

 

[mjasinski30]

What yeast, if the room is in the low 70’s then it very well may be in the high 70’s inside the vessel causing a vigorous fermentation which can lead to off flavors.

It’s US-04 yeast. And I’d love advice on where to best put the beer for fermentation. I know I don’t want it too warm, but I don’t think my wife would be too fond of me dropping the AC into the 60s for the whole house just to ferment for a few weeks. Haha

 

[mjasinski30]

@mjasinski30 take this opportunity to buy yourself some tubing for a blowoff setup. You may need it in the future, but otherwise, everything @Abhishek Dewan said is right!

Thanks for the tip. I’ll add it to the wish list.

 

[mjasinski30]

no? that looks gross! and you're going to drink that?

At least one. My hope is that it’s all at least tolerable. I’d hate to throw out beer.

 

[bracconiere]

At least one. My hope is that it’s all at least tolerable. I’d hate to throw out beer.

all that crap does what they call flocculation.....but it DOES look gross doesn't it?

(i find when i repitch my yeast into the next batch, i don't have as much blow-off....)

 

[RM-MN]

It’s US-04 yeast. And I’d love advice on where to best put the beer for fermentation. I know I don’t want it too warm, but I don’t think my wife would be too fond of me dropping the AC into the 60s for the whole house just to ferment for a few weeks. Haha

The good part is that the beer doesn't need to be cooled to the 60's for a few weeks. About 4 days would be sufficient. That still might not be so comfortable so go with a swamp cooler, put your fermenter in a tub of water, add frozen bottles of water to cool it and drape an old t-shirt over the fermenter with the tail end in the water so it can wick it up and evaporate.

 

[mjasinski30]

The good part is that the beer doesn't need to be cooled to the 60's for a few weeks. About 4 days would be sufficient. That still might not be so comfortable so go with a swamp cooler, put your fermenter in a tub of water, add frozen bottles of water to cool it and drape an old t-shirt over the fermenter with the tail end in the water so it can wick it up and evaporate.

Awesome. Thanks!

 

[bobeer]

Us04 is a yeast I use often. I find 67-68 degrees for primary fermentation then 70-71 to clean things up works well. It'll give it a nice clean finish but leave the beer maltier that then us05 would.
And your pic is totally normal and what you want to see for a big stout. It means healthy yeast are chomping away at those sugars.

 

[mjasinski30]

Us04 is a yeast I use often. I find 67-68 degrees for primary fermentation then 70-71 to clean things up works well. It'll give it a nice clean finish but leave the beer maltier that then us05 would.
And your pic is totally normal and what you want to see for a big stout. It means healthy yeast are chomping away at those sugars.

Thanks and glad to hear. More than anything, this being my first brew, I’m just hoping to have something that I’m willing to drink and share 5 gallons of.

 

[IronMan Brew]

Yup - been there done that - blow off tube now on all brews - distilled water

 

[IronMan Brew]

Cream Ale just about to finish up

 

[mjasinski30]

Cream Ale just about to finish up

Nice set up. What is that you’re storing the fermenter in? I assume that keeps your temp controlled well.

 

[IronMan Brew]

it is a kegerator currently with a Ink Bird - I will be buying a small Fridge for Fermenting. I am moving up to Kegging so the kegerator will be storing kegs and usage as well !

 

[mjasinski30]

it is a kegerator currently with a Ink Bird - I will be buying a small Fridge for Fermenting. I am moving up to Kegging so the kegerator will be storing kegs and usage as well !

Nice! Best of luck with kegging.

 

[mjasinski30]

Added update to original post, too.

Update: It’s been 3 days since I started fermenting and after some vigorous fermentation, the bubbles have stopped. I was expecting more like Wed. or Thur. Should go ahead and move it to the second fermenter to add the whiskey barrel chips or give it some more time. Thanks!

 

[RM-MN]

Added update to original post, too.

Update: It’s been 3 days since I started fermenting and after some vigorous fermentation, the bubbles have stopped. I was expecting more like Wed. or Thur. Should go ahead and move it to the second fermenter to add the whiskey barrel chips or give it some more time. Thanks!

Give it more time. While the bubbles may have stopped the yeast aren't done yet. I'd suggest 3 weeks before adding the chips. Let the yeast finish the fermentation and have time to settle out. The stout will improve in flavor and "smoothness" for a long time and this 3 weeks will be part of that.

Now, go buy a second fermenter and brew another beer, something that will be done quicker and be ready to drink sooner. I'd suggest a wheat beer like a clone of Blue Moon as it will be ready to drink before your Whiskey Barrel Stout will be ready to bottle.

 

[mjasinski30]

Give it more time. While the bubbles may have stopped the yeast aren't done yet. I'd suggest 3 weeks before adding the chips. Let the yeast finish the fermentation and have time to settle out. The stout will improve in flavor and "smoothness" for a long time and this 3 weeks will be part of that.

Now, go buy a second fermenter and brew another beer, something that will be done quicker and be ready to drink sooner. I'd suggest a wheat beer like a clone of Blue Moon as it will be ready to drink before your Whiskey Barrel Stout will be ready to bottle.

Wow, 3 weeks. The instructions suggested 4-6 days, add chips and transfer to 2nd fermenter for about 2 weeks, bottle and condition for 2 weeks. If I do ferment for 3 weeks, how long would you recommend exposing the beer to the chips? Sorry for all the questions.

And I’ve already been thinking about buying a second bucket to start brew #2. I’ll look into something less time consuming. Thanks!

 

[RM-MN]

Sorry for all the questions.

I'm not at all sorry you are asking all the questions. It's a good way to learn.

I'd probably leave the beer on the chips for the amount of time the recipe calls for.

I'd also start thinking about a third fermenter. With more batches in the works, it won't be so hard to wait. Often the beer tastes better after spending more time in the fermenter, especially darker beers and those with higher alcoholic content. While I only have one of my fermenters in use currently, the other 4 are ready to go.

 

[mjasinski30]

I'm not at all sorry you are asking all the questions. It's a good way to learn.

I'd probably leave the beer on the chips for the amount of time the recipe calls for.

I'd also start thinking about a third fermenter. With more batches in the works, it won't be so hard to wait. Often the beer tastes better after spending more time in the fermenter, especially darker beers and those with higher alcoholic content. While I only have one of my fermenters in use currently, the other 4 are ready to go.

Awesome. Thanks. The hardest part is the waiting!

 

[doug293cz]

... The hardest part is the waiting!

Tom Petty fan?



Brew on

 

[mjasinski30]

So going to add to my list of questions. Apologies in advance for the scattershot nature.

1. Can you ferment a beer for too long? In other words, will it “hurt” the beer for it to sit in the fermenter longer than suggested?
2. Do all beers need to move to a secondary fermenter or in some cases is it ok to ferment and then bottle from one fermenter?
3. If I start a fermenting around mid-70s does it do any good to get it to high 60s after a day or two or should I just leave it?
4. @RM-MN, just to clarify, are you saying to do first fermentation for 3 weeks, add to second fermenter with chips for 2-3 weeks?

Thanks everyone! I’m really enjoying this!

 

[McKnuckle]

While I understand why you phrased it as "ferment too long," in reality fermentation has a finite timeline. In an average ale, it's over in 3-7 days. Any remaining time spent in the primary fermenter is considered conditioning, where the yeast re-absorbs some fermentation byproducts, drops out, and the beer clarifies. In a professional brewery, beer is moved quickly out of the fermenter as soon as the yeast is no longer actively metabolizing anything. Many homebrewers do that too! Usually it's those who keg their beer, where an additional small layer of settled yeast is not a big deal. In bottles that's a pain, explaining why some keep beer in the fermenter for 2-3 weeks.

The vast majority of beers do NOT need a secondary fermenter; in fact it is considered a risky practice because we have poor oxygen control in our setups (compared with the pros). Any transfer and subsequent storage in a container where CO2 does not blanket the beer introduces oxygen. Oxygen is anathema to finished beer. There is also a smaller, but still real, opportunity to introduce infection during a transfer.

The temperature of your beer during the first 72 hours of fermentation will dictate most of its character. So there is no benefit to lowering temp only modestly after that point, as in your example. Usually a reduction in temperature is more dramatic, and done to influence conditioning (to stop or slow yeast metabolism, or facilitate precipitation of solids in the beer).

 

[mjasinski30]

While I understand why you phrased it as "ferment too long," in reality fermentation has a finite timeline. In an average ale, it's over in 3-7 days. Any remaining time spent in the primary fermenter is considered conditioning, where the yeast re-absorbs some fermentation byproducts, drops out, and the beer clarifies. In a professional brewery, beer is moved quickly out of the fermenter as soon as the yeast is no longer actively metabolizing anything. Many homebrewers do that too! Usually it's those who keg their beer, where an additional small layer of settled yeast is not a big deal. In bottles that's a pain, explaining why some keep beer in the fermenter for 2-3 weeks.

The vast majority of beers do NOT need a secondary fermenter; in fact it is considered a risky practice because we have poor oxygen control in our setups (compared with the pros). Any transfer and subsequent storage in a container where CO2 does not blanket the beer introduces oxygen. Oxygen is anathema to finished beer. There is also a smaller, but still real, opportunity to introduce infection during a transfer.

The temperature of your beer during the first 72 hours of fermentation will dictate most of its character. So there is no benefit to lowering temp only modestly after that point, as in your example. Usually a reduction in temperature is more dramatic, and done to influence conditioning (to stop or slow yeast metabolism, or facilitate precipitation of solids in the beer).

Thanks, McKnuckle. My secondary fermenter has a spigot on it for bottling so I was hoping to bottle from it (thinking its easier than a siphon). I was planning to transfer the beer to that for the barrel chips and then bottle, but your oxygen warnings have me leery. Is there a “safe” way to transfer to the second bucket to avoid oxygen? Or would it be ok to do all fermenting and add the chips in one and only switch it over right before bottling? I feel like that could introduce issues though...

 

[McKnuckle]

It's hard to fixate too much on O2 avoidance - beyond the basics - when you are fermenting in buckets. They are probably the least adaptable to oxygen avoidance techniques of all vessels. And at your stage, that's totally okay!

You have to recognize that many of those who reply to this thread, including me, have been brewing for years and have progressively refined our techniques and equipment. Most of us brewed at least several batches, if not dozens, without taking extraordinary care to avoid O2. The beer was mostly just fine. Some of it was even great!

The good news is that your stout is inherently less revealing of oxidation than most other styles, particularly anything pale or hoppy (pilsner, IPA, etc.).

Until you upgrade to a different style of fermenter, if that happens, bottle from your spigot. It is far easier than using a racking cane and siphon with a bottling wand (you need 3 hands!). I would add the chips to your primary, wait the requisite period, then rack as much clear beer to the bucket as possible along with priming sugar. Stir very gently and then bottle immediately from the bucket. What I would avoid is having the beer sit for a long period in the bucket after transferring.

That's about the best you can do at this stage, and it will be good enough. There will be plenty of time to obsess about other things once you've gotten some basic techniques down.

 

[mjasinski30]

It's hard to fixate too much on O2 avoidance - beyond the basics - when you are fermenting in buckets. They are probably the least adaptable to oxygen avoidance techniques of all vessels. And at your stage, that's totally okay!

You have to recognize that many of those who reply to this thread, including me, have been brewing for years and have progressively refined our techniques and equipment. Most of us brewed at least several batches, if not dozens, without taking extraordinary care to avoid O2. The beer was mostly just fine. Some of it was even great!

The good news is that your stout is inherently less revealing of oxidation than most other styles, particularly anything pale or hoppy (pilsner, IPA, etc.).

Until you upgrade to a different style of fermenter, if that happens, bottle from your spigot. It is far easier than using a racking cane and siphon with a bottling wand (you need 3 hands!). I would add the chips to your primary, wait the requisite period, then rack as much clear beer to the bucket as possible along with priming sugar. Stir very gently and then bottle immediately from the bucket. What I would avoid is having the beer sit for a long period in the bucket after transferring.

That's about the best you can do at this stage, and it will be good enough. There will be plenty of time to obsess about other things once you've gotten some basic techniques down.

Awesome. I appreciate the encouragement and advice. I’ll keep you guys posted and hopefully in a few weeks be able to post pictures of a beautiful Stout.

 

[jerrylotto]

Does anyone else think that S04 is not alcohol tolerant enough for a stout recipe? I typically use S05 for those and hold fermentation to 65-67. That's not to say it is a lost cause, but I would be concerned about a high FG and maybe pitch a more tolerant yeast to finish things off.

PS - are we reporting the wort temperature or the room temperature? Fermentation is highly exothermic at first and I've seen 15 degree spikes when I relied on air cooling. Now I submerge the fermentation vessel in a water bath until it slows and then use ice/freezer paks in a jacket to keep the wort temps steady.

 

[mjasinski30]

So, I went ahead and followed the recipe and switched to the second fermenter with the chips. OG was 1.056. Reading I just took was 1.020. Hope that’s a good sign. Time to let it sit for 3 weeks then bottle. Can’t thank everyone enough for the advice. I’ll keep you posted.

In the meantime, I’m going to get another bucket and start a new, less time consuming brew. Thanks again for all the help and encouragement.

 

[RM-MN]

I’m going to get another bucket

Just one?

 

[beerbelliest]

Hi there, so as a new brewer here, I just bought a recipe kit for an American Ale. I noticed that the batch was going to yield 19Lt (5 gal), and thinking that it would be too much too handle for a complete beginner I adjusted the ingredients' weight and volume to a third of the original recipe (6.3lt or 1.67Gal). To make things even more complicated, I just realized that the ideal fermenting condition is at 21C (70F). Thus far I documented the progress of the fermentation day from day one, and on average it is fermenting around 26-29C (79-84F) up to now. During the first 2 fermenting days I noticed almost no bubble on the airlock. On third to seventh though, by some miracles, I noticed the bubbles. Krauzen did form during the active bubbling days, and getting lesser and lesser by the passing days. Despite the volume I still used the full 5 gallon bucket to ferment my batch, and no I do not have secondary fermenting bucket.

So comes my questions:
1. Will my batch yield a normal beer?
2. What would be considered as a bad batch of beer? Is it just the sour taste, or how bad really can a beer get?
3. Is there any way of telling that a batch of beer is safe to consume? (I followed the safety precautions of brewing, sanitize and sterilize)
4. Is it okay I post my questions here? Or should I start a new thread. Sorry I'm really new to this blogging and sharing in this forum

Thanks for the tips and replies above, they are also my main concerns in starting brewing. Hope to learn a lot here.
Cheers

 

[RM-MN]

1. It should be a normal beer except..
2. A bad batch of beer is one that doesn't taste good. Sour is one, hot alcohol is another which you likely will have. When yeast ferment too high of a temperature they create what is known as fusel alcohol. This make the beer taste like it is much higher in alcohol content than it really is and reports I have read say that it leads to some wicked hangovers if you drink too much at one setting.
3. Nothing that can harm you can survive in beer as it is too acidic and has alcohol too. It might not taste good though.
4. Since you posted here I answered here but it really would be best if you start a new topic with your question so it doesn't get confused with the original poster's question or simply ignored.

5. Small batches are nice as you don't have to drink 50 bottles of beer if you don't like it. It also allows you to make some (small) changes when you brew the next portion of that kit. One thing to learn quickly is to ferment the beer near its lower preferred temperature as getting too warm, especially in the first 2-4 days, will get you some esters and maybe fusel alcohol that won't taste like you probably prefer. You can search for the yeast's preferred temp on the manufacturer's website.

 

[seatazzz]

Kit instructions tend to be horribly outdated. As others have stated above, moving your beer to a secondary fermentation vessel is not only mostly unnecessary, but can introduce more oxygen that may harm your beer. Unless you're planning on letting your beer sit on fruit for an extended period, secondary is absolutely NOT necessary. As long as your sanitation is on point, no infection present, there's no harm in letting your beer sit in primary for as long as necessary. And that includes adding your oak chips.

 

[Rick Crane]

I bought a Fridgidaire at home Depot and a Inkbird temp controller.

Frigidaire 5 cu. ft. Chest Freezer in White FFCS0522AW - The Home Depot

Store more of your favorite frozen foods and optimize bulk food storage with the Frigidaire 5.0 Cu. Ft. chest freezer. Great for storing large or small items, this chest freezer features a removable basket,

www.homedepot.com

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HXM5UAC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

One carboy or one bucket fits fine. ( 5.0 cu Feet)

I was just playing around with it and put the Inkbird sensor in a glass of water inside the freezer with nothing else inside and logged the temperature over 7 hours. Target temp 65 F The temp graph is attached. Looks like it goes up to 70 f and as low as 30 F to try and maintain 65 degrees. Not sure this is ideal. I will play some more with a 5 gallon bucket of water inside the freezer and the temp probe just hanging.

I think I am going to put the beer in a carboy to ferment and tape the temperature probe from the inkbird to the glass carboy, and tape some foam over it for insulation. I came across these idea's reading the forums.

My temperature logger :

Arduino Temperature Data Logger with SD Card - Simple Projects

Arduino project shows how to build temperature data logger using SD card, DS18B20 digital sensor, DS3231 RTC board and LCD. Arduino temperature datalogger.

simple-circuit.com