First Mead questions

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martyjhuebs

Naked Gnome Brew Co
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Attached are photos of my first batch of Cherry Mead. I added thawed unsweetened cherries in the very beginning. I used a generic dry yeast and removed cherries from one. My first question is in regards to the white and brown substance on the top of the carboy. I know that that is a bad sign in beer brewing but is it normal with mead? Second question, is bottling similar to bottling beer in regards to priming sugars?

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That stuff looks like it could just be sediment from a foamy fermentation? Or is this secondary?

In the bottom photo you have way too much headspace. It will oxidize and/or get infected like that. You need to top it up to the neck.
 
Distilled water? Does distilled water contain any minerals? I think you want to use spring water, don't you? . Distilled water is good for um .. electronics and transfusions not for fermentation...
 
That's the answer I was hoping for. Should I top it off with distilled water?

I prefer to top up with more mead or wine or something that won't dilute it too much, unless it's only a small amount. For your's, topping it up with water will make it significantly more watered down.

I'd probably use your other bottle to top up the one, then transfer what's left in that one in a smaller container.
 
Ideally I normally hold off on the fruit for 4-5 days but, it shouldn't hurt anything. The one thing that you have to keep in mind is mead is usually a high ABV and some generic yeasts can't handle the high alcohol, what yeast did you use? Also it is important to add yeast nutrient to keep the little guys happy. If you top it off, I would not just add plain water - it will dilute it. Add some more honey to the water or just add some fermentable sugar, I use candi or beet sugar. I also found that adding about 1/4 tsp of yeast nutrient every 10 days for the first 40 days, dissolved in hot hot water keeps the fermentation going. That and patience.
 
I used red star active dry yeast... if I add pure pineapple juice with crushed pineapple and topped it off with water a touch of sugar will that work?
 
Does the brown stuff look slightly slimy/oily? I know that i get a small layer of slimy/oily looking brown stuff on the top of my meads when i use more than 2lbs per gallon of honey. Ive been told its just protein or wax from the honey and have not noticed any off flavors from it.
 
Hi folks, I am just about ready to start my first batch of Mead. I have found a few receipts that are interesting but most are either for 5 gallons or 1 gallon so my question is how do I scale the receipe? On the 5 gallon, is it simply a matter of multiplying the Honey and Water by however may 5ths I need and simply adjust the flavorings to taste or is it more complicated? My target is 2 gallons.

One other question, I got my Honey from Northern Brewer and notice that there is no FDA info so I am assuming that maybe it is not pasturized is this a problem that I need to correct by boiling or will the natural anti microbial action of the Honey be enough?
 
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Hi. My rule of thumb is that 1 lb of honey dissolved to make 1 gallon of must (the mead before you pitch your yeast) will have a specific gravity of 1.040. So, 2 lbs will have a gravity in one gallon, of 1.080 and 2.5 lbs will be about 1.100. Obviously, I have no idea of what recipes you have but IMO you want to have about 2.5 - 3lbs of honey per gallon to have enough flavor from the honey. If you want a mead with a higher ABV (because fermented dry 1.100 will give you a mead of about 13 %) then you want to have added more honey per gallon. Higher ABVs may need to finish with more residual sugar to balance the alcohol and that may mean you need to step feed the additional quantities honey so that the yeast can still thrive rather than succumb to alcohol poisoning or to their inability to maintain osmosis when the concentrations of sugar are too high...
As to heating honey, I cannot speak for others in this forum, but heating honey has fallen out of favor in recent years. Heat destroys volatile molecules that provide flavor and aroma and even raw honey for adults is viewed as safe. Your yeast will take care of any wild yeast hanging around on the surface of the honey, although if you are at all concerned you might add one Campden tab per gallon after diluting your honey and 24 hours before you pitch the yeast. The Capmden tabs produce SO2 and the SO2 acts like an antibiotic to kill yeast, fungi, bacteria and the like that may be in fruit or in this case , honey. (Sulpha drugs I believe were/still are often used to treat bacterial infections in animals) .
 
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