First E-Brew Day

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MI_Dogman

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E-Brewers,

Today I attempted my first brew on my new electric system. Came away with a few of things. My mash was SPOT ON AWESOME, however I didn't sparse long enough and with my two vessel system (instead of two coolers and a kettle) it affects my efficiency. When it came to the boil I had a bit of a surprise. Maybe you guys can help me with this.

Is the boil suppose to pulse? I mean it was like not boiling very much to roaring boil every couple of seconds. I started at 100% and ended up dropping to 55-60 after reaching boil. Do I have a setting wrong or is that just how electric boiling is?

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iijakii

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There's a cycle time parameter you might be able to lower depending on your PID. But yes, you're always going to have pulsing.
 
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MI_Dogman

MI_Dogman

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Ok, it was one part I didn't research. It was no big deal, just caught me surprise. Thanks!

I am only using two vessels and have to calculate exactly how much water I need in the beginning. I ended up use a half a gallon to much but other than that hit right around 70% on my mash, which was what I was hoping for. Now I need to figure out this sparging issue. I'm use to 3 vessels, and right now I'm basically doing a full volume mash when it comes to mash out. It's fun to tinker. Just have to dial in the new stuff!
 

iijakii

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Yeah 70% seems to be about the best for no-sparge unless it's a finely crushed BIAB. You can try holding back a couple of gallons in a bucket and sparging with that after draining the MT. Might not be worth the hassle for a couple percentage points though.
 

doug293cz

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... My mash was SPOT ON AWESOME, however I didn't sparse long enough and with my two vessel system (instead of two coolers and a kettle) it affects my efficiency.

...
...

I am only using two vessels and have to calculate exactly how much water I need in the beginning. I ended up use a half a gallon to much but other than that hit right around 70% on my mash, which was what I was hoping for. Now I need to figure out this sparging issue. I'm use to 3 vessels, and right now I'm basically doing a full volume mash when it comes to mash out. It's fun to tinker. Just have to dial in the new stuff!
You're either doing a full volume mash or you are sparging. It can't be both. Adding the balance of your brewing water prior to first run off (if that's what you're doing) has identical lauter efficiency as full volume/no sparge, which will be lower than a sparged lauter. Just what is your lautering process?

Brew on :mug:
 
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MI_Dogman

MI_Dogman

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Yeah I added the remaining water prior to run off and mashed out in the process. As soon as I got up to 168 (about 15min) I transferred to the BK/HLT. It's something I have not done before, so it will be a learning curve. Around 70% efficiency is fine with me as long as I can maintain it. Maybe I will gain a little more when I get the process down better. Maybe I can try a slightly finer crush next time. I milled at .035"
 
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MI_Dogman

MI_Dogman

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Oh, I'm using Auber SYL-2352 for the boil 5500w/240 and its cycle parameter is set to 2. Should I try 1 for the boil?

The RIMS 1500w/240 is controlled by a Auber SWA-2451 and its cycle time is set to 2 as well. That seemed to be perfect (that's what I have seen most people setting there cycle to).
 

jlongstreet

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The reason you're getting pulsing is that the 55-60% you've got it set at for the boil means the element is 100% on, 55-60% of the duty cycle. If the duty cycle is 2 seconds, the element is 100% on for 1.1-1.2 seconds, then off for .8-.9 seconds. 2 seconds is generally the recommended duty cycle -- much less than that and you end up crossing over the frequency of the AC power. Also, SSR lifetime is linked to how many on/off switches it performs.
 
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MI_Dogman

MI_Dogman

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Ok, that's good to know. I can live with it. Like I said it just caught me off guard is all. Otherwise I was pretty happy with how everything performed!
 

orangehero

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The 2352 is a bit strange, depending on what the P, I, and D values are the t is affected. Even when everything is set up right and t is at the apparently lowest value of 2 it will still make a pulsing boil and in some cases cycles longer than the nominal 2 seconds. I have also found that after running autotune for certain P, I, and D values changing the t back down to the lowest value will create an error with the PV (temp reading) where it shows some nonsensical value. It's best to have a dedicated one for the BK where you don't need the highest precision when in automatic mode, for example doing a hop stand.
For an Auber SYL-2352 change the "P" and "t" values to 1 to make the boil smooth.
 
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MI_Dogman

MI_Dogman

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I do the boil in manual. Does the P and T value affect the PID while in manual? It's a two vessel system so my BK is also my HLT. I use the automatic for the strike and if I want to hop stand. Otherwise the last bit of water before mash out gets heated up real quick in manual before it goes to the mash tun.
 

sonex

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I switched from a 2352 to the dspr1 because the pulsing bothered me. Not that it made a difference in the final product. either will make beer.
 
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MI_Dogman

MI_Dogman

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Well guys!! I haven't done any adjustments to the system yet, but I will my next brew. I have the blonde on tap now and the bottles are carbing up. You will all be happy to here that there seems to be no off flavored from the brew process. No burnt or scorched tastes what's so ever. I believe my system is a success!
 
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MI_Dogman

MI_Dogman

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Ladies and Gentlemen we have lift off!! I'd did my second brew on the new system and it went really smooth with the boil this time. I ended up looking at my settings in my BK/HLT PID and they were all out of wack. Must have been from when I tried to do an autotune.
So I returned everything to the suggested settings in the manual and :rockin: success!! I just made sure that the Thanks for your input. Now I can focus on dialing in the process and recipes!
 
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