First brew day on my High Gravity 10 gallon EBIAB...today questions

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stevedasleeve

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I tested everything and am finally brewing again today after several months of not brewing during my move from DC to Melbourne beach Florida.

I'm not new to brewing, been at it once a week for 7-8 years but I am somewhat new to BIAB.

Q1: do I sanitize the system first? I've run hot water through it to check and figure boil off. The bag however has not been touched. I assume rinsing it first but maybe not?

Q2: after the brew day how do you clean? I was thinking running hot PBW through everything then rinsing and sanitizing with starsan - perhaps the last step is unnecessary?


Q3: 60 minute mash or 90? The pump recirculates and the water:grist ratio is high so seems like 60 is fine right?

Q4: for transferring into the fermenter would you run boiling wort through the hose or disconnect and soak in starsan to sanitize?

Cheers!
Steve
 

kh54s10

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I don't have a BIAB system, but this is what I would do.

1) Only worry about sanitizing anything and everything that will come in contact with the wort after the boil.

2) It depends on the system. If you cannot physically clean an area, run cleaner through it.

3) IMO that depends more on the recipe rather than the equipment.

4) I would use the Starsan.
 

TexasWine

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I tested everything and am finally brewing again today after several months of not brewing during my move from DC to Melbourne beach Florida.

I'm not new to brewing, been at it once a week for 7-8 years but I am somewhat new to BIAB.

Q1: do I sanitize the system first? I've run hot water through it to check and figure boil off. The bag however has not been touched. I assume rinsing it first but maybe not?

Q2: after the brew day how do you clean? I was thinking running hot PBW through everything then rinsing and sanitizing with starsan - perhaps the last step is unnecessary?


Q3: 60 minute mash or 90? The pump recirculates and the water:grist ratio is high so seems like 60 is fine right?

Q4: for transferring into the fermenter would you run boiling wort through the hose or disconnect and soak in starsan to sanitize?

Cheers!
Steve
1. Just rinse the bag good. Everything else should be fine as long as you gave it a good cleaning.
2. I put about 5 gains fresh water in the kettle, scrub the kettle down with a scrubby pad, drain the kettle, add 5 more gallons clean water, heat it up, add PBW, circulate for 30 minutes, drain, rinse down with clean water. No additional sanitizing needed.
3. Check your gravity as the mash progresses. That will tell you how long you need to mash.
4. Either works. I start circulating about 10 minutes before the boil is done.
 

griffi

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I have an 11 gal HG system and mostly use it in a eBIAB mode for 5 gal batches with a grain bill of no more than about 13 lbs. (1.065 or so). Bigger beers, I will just pull out my igloo mash tun. But I still just heat strike and sparge water in the HG kettle.
I agree with what's been said above.
Since you're constantly recirculating the mash, be conservative with your pump speed. One thing I did and it really helped: installed a sight glass. It is so useful for monitoring both mash (against a foam over ) and boil (boil off rate).
Just do a water test for leaks and go for it!
 
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stevedasleeve

stevedasleeve

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20 minutes into the mash the pump failed. They're sending a replacement. Meanwhile I guess I'll finish the brew day without recirculating! I'm mashing out now, and stirring.
 

griffi

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That's frustrating! A brand-new chugger pump failing? BTW, I really couldn't stand those plastic disconnects that came with mine and I switched to camlock's instead...
 
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stevedasleeve

stevedasleeve

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It worked out well enough without the pump. Fun to be brewing again! I've had so many disasters this was not a big deal at all. Only bummer is I can't brew tomorrow. I like that I only have to clean a single vessel. Thanks for your input!

Steve
 

RM-MN

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20 minutes into the mash the pump failed. They're sending a replacement. Meanwhile I guess I'll finish the brew day without recirculating! I'm mashing out now, and stirring.
When I brew my conversion is all done before 20 minutes(usually done in 5 minutes). That will depend on the quality of the crush but yours was probably done in less than 20 minutes.

With any system except fly sparging, mash out is totally unnecessary.
 

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Boiling wort will sanitize clean surfaces. You cannot sanitize dirt. Clean the equipment before use or immediately after use and a good rinse before use.
 

brewian

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I just brewed with my HG 15gal system, upgraded with the SSbrewtech pot, and it was great. Looks like they've fixed a lot of the previous issues with the temperature probe (mine is located on the pot, just above the boil coil) and disconnects (these are all steel). Water came up to mash temp and boil very quick with the 240V. Just hooked it up to my dryer outlet.
 

griffi

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Just hooked it up to my dryer outlet.
I haven’t been following the thread so don’t take offense but you do have a GFCI protected panel between the dryer outlet and the controller, right? Don’t want to hear of somebody frying themselves...
 
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Haven’t fried myself yet! Many brews later I’m fine with this system. Mostly 10 gallon batches since my local happy hour results in a whole lot of imbibing here.

I had the original temp probe replaced and put in ss camlocks, got a very efficient immersion cooler and am now never upgrading again.

My pipeline is generally 30 gallons reserve. I brew 2-3 times per month
 

brewian

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I haven’t been following the thread so don’t take offense but you do have a GFCI protected panel between the dryer outlet and the controller, right? Don’t want to hear of somebody frying themselves...
I actually don't. I've contacted a local electrician and they didn't seem too concerned about it, but reading more online I'd like to get that fixed before I brew next. Looks like you can buy a type of adapter cord https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...eASIN=B001QRKPQU&linkCode=as2&tag=duanstor-20 but it's pretty pricey. Will have to see if this would be cheaper than getting a separate GFCI panel installed... What do you do?
 

griffi

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I actually don't. I've contacted a local electrician and they didn't seem too concerned about it, but reading more online I'd like to get that fixed before I brew next. Looks like you can buy a type of adapter cord https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...eASIN=B001QRKPQU&linkCode=as2&tag=duanstor-20 but it's pretty pricey. Will have to see if this would be cheaper than getting a separate GFCI panel installed... What do you do?
Wow, that is expensive! I think you can find inline gfci cords cheaper than that but what I did was take a small spa panel and wire it to a 4 prong dryer plug. I brew on my screened in back porch and I leave the spa panel plugged in all the time. When I want to brew, the 6’ length of the dryer cord allows sufficient length to get the controller in a convenient location. If you’re interested in the spa panel route, search the electric brewing section for a good wiring diagram/photo thread.
 

visitor

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I just brewed with my HG 15gal system, upgraded with the SSbrewtech pot, and it was great. Looks like they've fixed a lot of the previous issues with the temperature probe (mine is located on the pot, just above the boil coil) and disconnects (these are all steel). Water came up to mash temp and boil very quick with the 240V. Just hooked it up to my dryer outlet.
Sounds like they made some improvements over what is advertised on their website? Curious how the SsBrewtech pot works with the basket? I see the bayou kettle has a lip for the basket to sit in. How did they solve that with the Brewtech kettle?
 

cubsfan16

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Sounds like they made some improvements over what is advertised on their website? Curious how the SsBrewtech pot works with the basket? I see the bayou kettle has a lip for the basket to sit in. How did they solve that with the Brewtech kettle?
I have the same/similar HG setup...15g SS Brewtech kettle, Riptide pump with the camlock fittings. I also had a spin cycle whirlpool arm added and use with a Jaded CFC. I love brewing on this system.

I only have a couple of minor complaints. With the SS Brewtech and spin cycle wp arm the basket sits a little cockeyed making one side of the basket ride up on the edge of the kettle which makes it hard to get the binder clips to clip on to hold the bag and also doesn’t allow the lid to sit flush on top. I have also used both the 10” and 14” spincycle...the 10” is too short for a 5gal batch and the 14” seems to catch turbulence from the plugged port above the bottom valve. It’s not a huge deal, just not ideal. So far I have just been brewing 5.5-6gal batches. Going to try a 10.5 low gravity beer next
 

Yambor44

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My lid doesn't fit flush either but I figure as long as I am recirculating with the PID controller and element on it really won't make any difference. My bag is long enough that it reaches down over the handles on the outside and if I feel the need I can add a clip on each side.

The only challenge I have run into is a few stuck recirculations, meaning the wort doesn't run through the bag/basket fast enough to keep a prime on the pump. After about 30 mins of babysitting, shutting off the pump and stirring on again/off again it works itself out. I finally just bought a 400 micron bag and haven't had the problem since.
 

cubsfan16

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My lid doesn't fit flush either but I figure as long as I am recirculating with the PID controller and element on it really won't make any difference. My bag is long enough that it reaches down over the handles on the outside and if I feel the need I can add a clip on each side.

The only challenge I have run into is a few stuck recirculations, meaning the wort doesn't run through the bag/basket fast enough to keep a prime on the pump. After about 30 mins of babysitting, shutting off the pump and stirring on again/off again it works itself out. I finally just bought a 400 micron bag and haven't had the problem since.
Yeah, I should have mentioned the lid issue is more of a pet peeve and hasn’t caused any issues with brewing.

I also had the same issue with stuck circulation and have been dealing with it by dialing the flow way back on my pump. I am using the brewingbag.com bag that HG shipped with the setup. Brewinabag’s website says they are around 210 micron. Where did you get the 400 micron bag? Are you able to run your recirc wide open or at least more than a moderate trickle?

I also read of people doing away with the basket and doing a BIAB false bottom from brewers hardware with good results.
 
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cubsfan16

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I just ordered a BIAB false bottom from brewhardware.com. There are several threads indicating people being successful using them to improve flow when recirculating. Plus, I can do away with the basket altogether.
 

visitor

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Yambor44 and cubsfan16 - thanks for the feedback on your experience with the HG system. I'm leaning toward modifying my 15G SSBrewtech kettle vs getting the fully system. Since I have a Riptide pump, bag, hoses, quick connectors, kettle. It sounds like I need the element, controller, false bottom (to keep the bag off the element) and parts an pieces to get the element connected to the kettle. I'm thinking of doing the weldless TC port for the element so I guess I need something to punch or drill a hole for that.
 

Guntash

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Hey guys i am looking at getting the HG EBIAB system as well. I was looking to get the 20gal SS brew pot with ripetide pump and the 240v system. Anybody have any experience with this sized kettle and how well the basket/bag fits? I am from Canada for i want to make sure its a solid system before I pull the trigger and take it hard on the USD to CAD conversion rates..
 

Yambor44

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Yeah, I should have mentioned the lid issue is more of a pet peeve and hasn’t caused any issues with brewing.

I also had the same issue with stuck circulation and have been dealing with it by dialing the flow way back on my pump. I am using the brewingbag.com bag that HG shipped with the setup. Brewinabag’s website says they are around 210 micron. Where did you get the 400 micron bag? Are you able to run your recirc wide open or at least more than a moderate trickle?

I also read of people doing away with the basket and doing a BIAB false bottom from brewers hardware with good results.
I got mine at BIAB’s website. I bought the 40-62 quart D=13” to 16” H up to 21”. I paid an additional $10 to upgrade to 400 micron.

When I first encountered the “stuck” recirculating mash I called HGBing and spoke to Dave. He recommended I add a ball valve to the exit side of the pump to control the flow better from there. So I purchased one from him and added to the pump. It didn’t help. So I just resolved to wrapping the kettle with a blanket to control the mash temp until the bag arrived. It didn’t take long.

I watched some BIAB videos and contacted the owner. He recommended 400 micron for a recirculating mash.


https://www.brewinabag.com/products/the-brew-bag-for-kettles?variant=489067389
 

TexasWine

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I also had the same issue with stuck circulation and have been dealing with it by dialing the flow way back on my pump.

I also read of people doing away with the basket and doing a BIAB false bottom from brewers hardware with good results.
A few other things you might try. Open up your mill gap. If you follow the typical single vessel mantra of crush till you can't crush it no more, you're going to end up with a stuck recirculation. And, believe it or not, there is a body of evidence out there that indicates increasing the mill gap (to a certain point of course) can actually increase efficiency!

Condition the grain before milling. This helps keep more husks intact, making the grain bed more porous and easier to circulate and lauter.

You're barking up the right tree with the valve. Make sure you start circulation with the valve closed, opening it slowly so as not to compact the grain bed by pulling too hard at the onset. You should be able to gradually open it up as the mash progresses.

If you don't already, get a sight level gauge that penetrates the vessel below whatever false bottom you use. The level gauge acts like a manometer, telling you what the pressure is doing below the grain bed. If it drops too much, you know you're headed towards being stuck and need to take action.

And, a minor nit to pick, but the false bottom you speak of comes from Brew Hardware. It's a wonderful piece of kit. I bought v1.0 when it came out.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/biabbottom15.htm
 

cubsfan16

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Thanks for the recommendations. I have a Zymatic, which tends to like the coarser crush so I think I have my gap set wider (I don’t adjust back and forth between systems) than what most BIAB brewers do and get between 69-70% efficiency.

I haven't tried conditioning yet but may consider it if my problems continue.

Thanks for pointing out I listed the wrong false bottom source. I did email and spoke with Bobby at brewhardware.com after reading your earlier post and ended up ordering the false bottom. Unfortunately the nuts for the mounting of the legs were right in line with my boil coil so I ended up having to get some SS nuts and washers to move the legs in a little. That said, I haven’t had a chance to use it yet . I plan on brewing my next brew with it. I brewed a beer last weekend using the basket and started slow with the flow and cranked it up to about half way around 30min into the mash and didn’t have any issues. I think combining a slow ramp up after mash in and the new false bottom should take care of my recirculation issues (fingers crossed).

Yambor - I was thinking about using a hook of some sort to pull out the false bottom after mashing since I typically use a large SS hop basket that I set on the bottom of the kettle when doing 5.5gal batches.
 

Yambor44

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Yambor - I was thinking about using a hook of some sort to pull out the false bottom after mashing since I typically use a large SS hop basket that I set on the bottom of the kettle when doing 5.5gal batches.
Years ago I made a DIY false bottom. I used one of those Bbq sticks with the pigtail hook on the end (made to flip steaks with) to fish mine out. I was curious as to other possible methods.
 

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First post, but agree with the Gfci statement. I feed a 50 amp spa disconnect from a 30 amp breaker in my panel. The spa panel feeds a 30 amp/4 wire receptacle. Anytime water and electricity can come in contact, especially where you are touching, needs to be ground fault protected. Here’s a pic of my new setup, haven’t brewed on it yet, but did a dry run to see how the mash temps maintained.
IMG_0020.JPG
 

BoilerInSoCal

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Hey guys i am looking at getting the HG EBIAB system as well. I was looking to get the 20gal SS brew pot with ripetide pump and the 240v system. Anybody have any experience with this sized kettle and how well the basket/bag fits? I am from Canada for i want to make sure its a solid system before I pull the trigger and take it hard on the USD to CAD conversion rates..
Hi Guntash,
I went with the 20 gal SS Brewtech, 5000 W boil coil, riptide pump and 14" spincycle. Overall, I love the system. The pot is BIG (it actually holds 22 gal), and there is more than enough room for 11 gal batches (and with the dip tube, I only have a couple of pints of dead space). My main complaint with the system is that that basket that came with it is too small (i think it may be for the 15 gal). Dave added bolts to the bottom so that it sits above the coil (an unadvertised bonus!). But the diameter is too small and combined with the bolts, you easily run into issues with liquid levels. Not a big deal. I'm just going to ditch the basket and go with the bag (also note that the bag provided only fits the basket, so I'm going to need a new bag that fits the diameter and height of the pot). Dave swears up an down that the boilcoil is like super-ULWD so the bag touching will not be an issue. I'm going to try it out on my next batch. If so, I should be able to do the occasional 5 gal batch as well.
 

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I was thinking about trying my first 10.5-11 gallon batch in my 15g High Gravity system. I use Brew’n water and BeerSmith. I am planning on doing a beer with a 19-20lbs grain bill. According to BeerSmith that will but me slightly over 15g vessel capacity (it may fit). However, I was thinking it may be better to just save a couple gallons of water back and sparge by lifting the bag and pouring the extra 2 gallons or so over the grains. (I think It was a Clawhammer BIAB video I saw this done). To do this, can I just add my full volume of water to my kettle the recipe is asking for, mix my salts, then drain off the 2gal for sparging? I haven’t done anything other than full volume BIAB mashes so I’m familiar with the proper steps. I’m hitting 69-70% efficiency with my full volume batches. What should I expect for efficiency with a sparge step? A couple other details I was considering was not using my new brewhardware BIAB false bottom and use my fryer basket to make it easier to sparge. Also, I was thinking about creating a new Mash profile in BeerSmith with a sparge step vs taking the calculated full water volume, mixing and drawing off a couple gallons, though this seems easier than doing water adjustments on two volumes of water.
 
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visitor

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First post, but agree with the Gfci statement. I feed a 50 amp spa disconnect from a 30 amp breaker in my panel. The spa panel feeds a 30 amp/4 wire receptacle. Anytime water and electricity can come in contact, especially where you are touching, needs to be ground fault protected. Here’s a pic of my new setup, haven’t brewed on it yet, but did a dry run to see how the mash temps maintained.View attachment 589868
This looks very similar to what I am thinking about doing. Re-use as much of my current setup as possible with possible upgrade to a larger pot if necessary. I plan on using my SS Brewtech 15G Kettle, riptide pump and other parts as a eBIAB setup. I keep going back and forth on a basket or false bottom and bag and I still need to get an electrician to wire a circuit for me to my brew area. Also still need to decide on trying to build a controller or just go with an off the shelf one.
 

Raider0914

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This looks very similar to what I am thinking about doing. Re-use as much of my current setup as possible with possible upgrade to a larger pot if necessary. I plan on using my SS Brewtech 15G Kettle, riptide pump and other parts as a eBIAB setup. I keep going back and forth on a basket or false bottom and bag and I still need to get an electrician to wire a circuit for me to my brew area. Also still need to decide on trying to build a controller or just go with an off the shelf one.
Mine is the 15 gallon kettle as well. I went with the false bottom, but I haven’t brewed on it yet to offer my opinion. I also built my panel, and installed the outlet and gfci spa panel. Although, I probably could have bought the DIY eBIAB panel from ebrewsupply.com for what it cost to build it. Not sure of the total I spent, because I built/bought over time.View attachment 590312View attachment 590313
 
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