First All Grain Questions

[zeppman301]

Hello,
I am looking to brew my first all grain beer. I have brewed 8 extract and specialty beers from various kits with quite a bit of success. I am looking to expand and attempt to learn more. I have been reading up on John Palmers website, ( www.howtobrew.com) and have been getting a lot of information, but also a few questions. I wanted to know if anyone knew what the numbers after the specific grains means, such as crystal 60L malt , or Barley 550 L, or base malt 2 L? Does it reference something with the characteristics of the grain? I also wasn't sure if I needed to add enzymes during the mash, some of what I read seems to imply that the enzymes are there, other things seem to imply you need to add them. Lastly I was wondering if anyone had a good recipe to start into an all grain beer, something easier and less likely to mess up. I appreciate any help.

 

[dmob29]

The numbers after the grain are the Lovibond which refers to the color or roasting characteristic of the grain. The bigger the number the darker the grain and more roasted it is.
As for the enzymes, most of the 2-row are now heavily modified. Meaning the enzymes are already present and ready for mashing.

 

[jacksonbrown]

The L is a lovibond rating, telling you the color of the malt. 2 is very very light, 40 is a medium, and 500 is pretty much black and is generally assigned to black patent or roast barley. Every grain is going to impart a different flavor/color/attributes to the final product. Keep reading Palmer, it's ubber informative. For easy first recipes I would go with BeirMuncher's Centennial Blonde, or Bee Cave Brewery Haus Pale Ale. Both great choices and favorites on this site.
Hope this helps, and happy brewing!

 

[MMW]

I wanted to know if anyone knew what the numbers after the specific grains means, such as crystal 60L malt , or Barley 550 L, or base malt 2 L? Does it reference something with the characteristics of the grain?

Yes- color.

I also wasn't sure if I needed to add enzymes during the mash, some of what I read seems to imply that the enzymes are there, other things seem to imply you need to add them.

If you have plenty of base malts, you won't need to.

Lastly I was wondering if anyone had a good recipe to start into an all grain beer, something easier and less likely to mess up.

Take a stroll through the recipe database here (We have one...it's huge!) and find something you would like to drink with a modest OG of like 1.045 - 1.055 and get cracking

Don't get intimidated...there is a lot to learn but just like your extract + grain beers, it's really hard to screw up if you take your time, read, ask questions and think things through. It'll at least give you something to ponder while you RDWHAHB.

 

[zeppman301]

Thanks, I figured it had to be something with the grain characteristics. I have noticed how detailed he is, so I am rereading it to make sure I can get everything. Thanks for all your help and I will certainly look through those recipes.

 

[mookie1010]

I would do one of the recipes listed above for a first time. My first all grain was Ed Wort's Haus Pale, I recommend it.

Pay very close attention to your mash temps. That can be the most frustrating thing (was for me) in the beginning. Have extra hot water and extra ice water at the ready. For me, my first few batches were tough to get up to temp.

Pay very close attention to your water amounts - amount of wort collected, amount of wort post boil and so on - this will really help you develop your recipes better based on your set up.

Lay out all of your ingredients before beginning in the order you'll be using them.

Be prepared for your efficiency to suck the first time. Don't be upset and have some DME available in case you need to bump up your wort a bit.

Buy a copy of Palmer's book, and have it with you the entire time. Read the All Grain chapters several times. I reference it ALL THE TIME. I'm still new (7 all grain batches), but still. It's invaluable.

Have fun and good luck!