First AG Batch Tastes Watered Down

[Ryanmcgrim]

Just opened first bottle of Winter Seasonal English style Ale, dark amber in color great head and aroma, but very very watered down taste. Followed amounts, measurements to a T, primary fermentor for 4 weeks, bottled for 3 weeks, nicely carbed. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Ryan

 

[dontman]

SG readings?

 

[hazzards]

What was the recipe/mash schedule?

 

[hcarter]

I think you should post you OG/FG readings and maybe your recipe and procedure that you followed, There may be something to glean from that info, but I'd bet it's just young beer. My first few beers tasted watered down even 4 weeks into letting them condition. Now, they taste great. Just my .02.

 

[bull8042]

Looks like the OP has gone AWOL. But anyway, if you will give us some more specifics like what has been requested here, we may be able to help you a little more.

 

[Ryanmcgrim]

Hey folks,

and thanks for the reply. I took the original and specific gravity readings, but my dog literally ate the paper it was printed on, if my memory serves me, the calculations lead to a seemingly low alcohol, i believe around 2.8%. I am sorry for being so unprepared. I think OG was around 130? and final reading was around 110, does this make sense? Anyway, as far as the process is concerned we mashed 65 min at about 151 degrees, sparging went well, grain floated, boiled 55 min, began bubbling in about 10 hours, went on strong for 2 full weeks. Any ideas, i know i am unprepared, and yes it is true that my dog actually did eat my recipe and measurement paper. Thanks again

Ryan

 

[impatient]

Hey folks,

and thanks for the reply. I took the original and specific gravity readings, but my dog literally ate the paper it was printed on, if my memory serves me, the calculations lead to a seemingly low alcohol, i believe around 2.8%. I am sorry for being so unprepared. I think OG was around 130? and final reading was around 110, does this make sense? Anyway, as far as the process is concerned we mashed 65 min at about 151 degrees, sparging went well, grain floated, boiled 55 min, began bubbling in about 10 hours, went on strong for 2 full weeks. Any ideas, i know i am unprepared, and yes it is true that my dog actually did eat my recipe and measurement paper. Thanks again

Ryan

I don't understand 130 and 110.

I haven't done AG. But, according to what I have absorbed targeting 151 degrees is a little low. Did the temp start at 151 and drop? If so, converson may have been to good, and, the yeasties may have ate everything leaving you with a watered down brew. I would guess this is why fermentation lasted so long.

 

[dontman]

Hey folks,

and thanks for the reply. I took the original and specific gravity readings, but my dog literally ate the paper it was printed on, if my memory serves me, the calculations lead to a seemingly low alcohol, i believe around 2.8%. I am sorry for being so unprepared. I think OG was around 130? and final reading was around 110, does this make sense? Anyway, as far as the process is concerned we mashed 65 min at about 151 degrees, sparging went well, grain floated, boiled 55 min, began bubbling in about 10 hours, went on strong for 2 full weeks. Any ideas, i know i am unprepared, and yes it is true that my dog actually did eat my recipe and measurement paper. Thanks again

Ryan

Yea, if your og was 1.030 you just got a VERY low efficiency. The issue here is that you did nothing to correct it preboil. You need to take a quick reading before the boil after the wort collection to make sure you have enough GUs per recipe. That way if you are too low you can correct it before going any farther.

The upshot is that an 1.030 OG beer is going to give you a very "small beer" Not just in alcohol but in body as well. This is not necessarily a problem. We call them lawnmower beers because they are refreshing and non intoxicating in hot summer days.

Your mash temp was fine as it maximized the fermentables that you were able to get out of the beer. The only thing you need to fix is your efficiency. In the meantime add an extra pound or two to the mash to beef up things until you start overshooting your target. Then back off

 

[Ryanmcgrim]

Thanks for replying guys, I appreciate it! Dontman, If you are saying that I was mashing at the right temp, and sparging went well, then what would be the cause of a low efficiency? All measurements and timing seemed to be perfect, also, you talk about fixing the efficiency issues prior to the boil, how can i increase efficiency at this point? what are the main causes of low efficiencies? I originally heated mashing water to 168 degrees, is this too low, it was cold outside where i was brewing, anyway, more info would be great,

thanks everyone,

i am brewing tomorrow, so hope all goes well

Ryan

 

[BierMuncher]

Did you crush your grains?

I'm just sayin...

 

[Ryanmcgrim]

Grains were crushed at lhbs, guy knows his stuff so i didn't think that was the culprit, but who knows?

 

[dontman]

LHBS tend to crush on the coarse side.

To correct you need to figure out how low you are. You do this by taking a preboil (once you have collected all the wort) reading and count up your GUs. The books explain it much better but if you are doing a 5 gallon batch of 1.050 beer you need 250 GUs. (5 X 50) To count up your preboil GUS you take your volume and multiply by your hydro reading (without the 1.0) So let's say you collect 7 gallons to boil down to 5. Your 7 gallons should have a reading of 250/7 ~ 1.035. If you get 1.020 you are short by 110 GUs and you want to add them.

LME adds 38 GUs per lb
DME adds 45 GUS per lb.

So to answer your question you don't improve your efficiency post mash you fix the wort by adding fermentables from other sources.