Finally upgrading to ball valve on bk

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Chupidacabra

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I think I'm going with the weldless kit from bargain fittings. I was thinking 2 piece ball valve with hose barb to 90 degree elbow and 45 degree side pick up tube.

My 17 gallon bk has pretty thick walls so I'm going with the premium kit.

Am I missing anything? Or is there any advice for this? Just covering my bases before I pull the trigger.

Also, how far up open the kettle to you drill?
 
I do like the 3-pieces better than the 2-pieces, but either one will get the job done.

I'm not sure why you'd need both a 90-degree elbow and a 45-degree side pick-up tube.
 
LandoLincoln said:
I do like the 3-pieces better than the 2-pieces, but either one will get the job done.

I'm not sure why you'd need both a 90-degree elbow and a 45-degree side pick-up tube.

Just easier to clean? I may do that if that's the case. And on their site it says to get the 45 elbow or the 90 elbow if you do a side pick up either elbow is free with the kit so I figured grab the one that will end up closest to the side. I usually whirlpool and the thought was farther to the edge would be the least trub. Correct me if I'm wrong though.
 
re: the ball valve, the two piece are actually pretty easy to take apart. I've accidentally done it when messing with fittings. It was all clean in there though so I never break them down.
 
I just bought the set up you are talking about from BargainFittings a couple weeks ago. We used it last weekend and it worked awesome.

On the inside of the keggle is a 90 degree street elbow that points downward. This leaves about 3/4 of a gallon in the bottom of the keggle. That doesn't seem like too much left over to me so I am fine with it for now.

KeggleValve.jpg
 
A ball valve on the bk is happy making. Like groundchuck, I use a 90deg elbow down into the flat-bottom pot and it leaves only 8 oz behind. 'O course, that low it picks up a good amount of crud. Tradeoffs.

I got 2-piece valve for economy. If you can, get the 3-piece. I pulled apart both in the store and IMO the 3-piece cleans more surely.
 
I'll probably go 3 piece. Also I think I am going to get the pick up tube, based on what you guys are saying. I don't like leavin beer behind and I like to whirlpool so I can leave the majority of the trub.
 
New question! I'm assuming a heat shield is probably necessary. Any recommendations on a cheap commercial one? Or a DIY?
 
Good job on the order. You'll enjoy the convenience of the valve.

I missed your first question about hole location for the valve. There is a video on the bargin fittings web site that shows you how to do it. Basically you want the valve as low as possible to get the most out of your keggle when you empty it. However this is dictated by the washer that goes on the outside of the keggle. I positioned the valve so that the washer was just barely above the bottom weld seam on the keg (you'll see what I mean when you get your parts).

I am not sure if you also ordered a Thermometer but if you did and typically do 5 gallon batches you may want to put the thermometer lower than I did. Where I put it is right at the top of a 5 gallon batch (again this was driven by the location of the rib in the side of the keg). I do all 10 gallon batches so I am fine with the location of the thermometer.

I don't have a heat shield in my set up at all. Where are you thinking you need a heat shield?
 
groundchuck said:
Good job on the order. You'll enjoy the convenience of the valve.

I missed your first question about hole location for the valve. There is a video on the bargin fittings web site that shows you how to do it. Basically you want the valve as low as possible to get the most out of your keggle when you empty it. However this is dictated by the washer that goes on the outside of the keggle. I positioned the valve so that the washer was just barely above the bottom weld seam on the keg (you'll see what I mean when you get your parts).

I am not sure if you also ordered a Thermometer but if you did and typically do 5 gallon batches you may want to put the thermometer lower than I did. Where I put it is right at the top of a 5 gallon batch (again this was driven by the location of the rib in the side of the keg). I do all 10 gallon batches so I am fine with the location of the thermometer.

I don't have a heat shield in my set up at all. Where are you thinking you need a heat shield?

I have a 17 gallon stock pot so I don't have to worry about the seams. And I didn't do a thermometer because I use a probed thermocouple. I use a jet burner. I figured the heat might be bad for that rubber gasket. But I suppose it's meant for that and my kettle is pretty wide I don't think it will really matter.
 
Try calling your LHBS for a step bit. One LHBS around here will let you use their step bit if you bring the vessel to the store. They do not want the hassle of people forgetting to return the bit. They also suggest the proper height.

I was drilling into thin-wall Al so a regular 1/2" bit was sufficient, enlarged to 7/8" with a Dremel grinder.

I have seen very nice pickup tubes of bent copper, contoured to the inside diameter of the tub. That probably requires a tubing bender
 
Epimetheus said:
Try calling your LHBS for a step bit. One LHBS around here will let you use their step bit if you bring the vessel to the store. They do not want the hassle of people forgetting to return the bit. They also suggest the proper height.

I was drilling into thin-wall Al so a regular 1/2" bit was sufficient, enlarged to 7/8" with a Dremel grinder.

I have seen very nice pickup tubes of bent copper, contoured to the inside diameter of the tub. That probably requires a tubing bender

That's a good idea. Will call them tomorrow.
 
To avoid sucking up the trube off the bottom of the kettle, you can make or buy a screen that attaches to the pickup tube.
I have had good results with mine.
 
processhead said:
To avoid sucking up the trube off the bottom of the kettle, you can make or buy a screen that attaches to the pickup tube.
I have had good results with mine.

I get pretty good results with whirl pooling. Makes a cone out of the break material and hops and I get almost all of the liquid out.
 
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