Finally built my Rims tube and controller

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JayDog

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Thanks to all the previous builds. I did plenty of reading on here.
Decided to go with the Mypin TD4 mainly because of price, but also because I had an amazon gift card.

This one is just going to be used for mashing and heating hlt water. I brew outside and don't have access to a 220 line there.

Now I'm looking forward to building the brew stand.

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You might want a valve on the output of it to limit the flow rate through it depending on how powerful the element is. The wort picks up a lot more heat on its way through the tube at a slower flow rate
 
After first time you use it, you'll be asking yourself "Why didn't I do this earlier" followed immediately with "How can I get 220V outside"

Congrats with the build

or better yet you might ask yourself why am I brewing outside when I can brew indoors with electric and without a mess.
 
You might want a valve on the output of it to limit the flow rate through it depending on how powerful the element is. The wort picks up a lot more heat on its way through the tube at a slower flow rate
I'll have a valve on the output of the Pump to control it.

or better yet you might ask yourself why am I brewing outside when I can brew indoors with electric and without a mess.
I started brewing indoors and my family just complained about it.
I live in Florida so brewing outdoors isn't much of a problem.
Now if we had basement's that would change everything.
 
I'll have a valve on the output of the Pump to control it.

I think you would want a valve on the output of the RIMS tube as well. You want the pump keeping the RIMS tube full.

I have no experience with RIMS tubes but that makes sense to me. You do not want to dry fire the element and it's best to keep the pressure on the input side.
 
I think you would want a valve on the output of the RIMS tube as well. You want the pump keeping the RIMS tube full.

I have no experience with RIMS tubes but that makes sense to me. You do not want to dry fire the element and it's best to keep the pressure on the input side.

if you pump from the bottom up you wont have air in it regardless. I lay mine horizontal with the output valve facing up and the input facing down... I have a drain valve on the input because mines permanently mounted.
 
Don't put a valve on the output of the rims tube. That is frightening. Youll blow up hoses, and potentially your tube. You'll also want an easy way to take apart the tube to clean the element. Once crud coats it, scorch city. Unscrewing it with a pipe wrench gets old quick.
 
if you pump from the bottom up you wont have air in it regardless. I lay mine horizontal with the output valve facing up and the input facing down... I have a drain valve on the input because mines permanently mounted.

I plan on mounting it horizontally as well.
I will have it mounted to the stand but I want to be able to remove it if I have to. I also want to change the temp sensor to a plug in. I don't like having it hard wired to the control box.


Don't put a valve on the output of the rims tube. That is frightening. Youll blow up hoses, and potentially your tube. You'll also want an easy way to take apart the tube to clean the element. Once crud coats it, scorch city. Unscrewing it with a pipe wrench gets old quick.

Thanks, I don't plan to.
 
Mounting horizontally increases boil and dry fire potential because you can't be certain there aren't any air bubbles in the tube.

You will never have air pockets if it's mounted vertically.
 
Mounting horizontally increases boil and dry fire potential because you can't be certain there aren't any air bubbles in the tube.



You will never have air pockets if it's mounted vertically.


I generally agree with this statement and was going to post likewise. The reality given this design is if mounted vertically, there will be an air pocket at the top by the probe.

Another detriment to horizontal mounting is heat flow off the element. You get very hot localized liquid above the element, which could cause local boiling with enough heat. Though I don't think it would happen with 120V unless the flow is silly slow. The best RIMS designs are long elements which heat gently and designs where the wort is made turbulent through its path. Of course our application of water heating elements don't promote either. A cartridge heater like augiedoggy uses helps with the first. Some type of stainless baffles inside the tube could help with the second, but have to be sized such that they don't induce clogging with aberrant particles of grain.
 
This shows why you need to take the tube apart after each brew session. If you leave this on for 2 batches, it will scorch
 
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