Filter or not filter

[IwanaBrich]

To filter or not filter my brew, that is the question!

I'm lookingto hear the pro's and con's about filtering, because I can't decide.

Your thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[Botlerocket]

I have tried a few different options. Gelatin has worked well for me but i have noticed it takes some of that hop aroma out. I'm going to use a plate filter i bought a year ago this week on a few different types this week. Personally I would rather not have to add anything to my beers. Cold conditioning if your patient will give you great results too..

 

[ThreeSheetsBrewing]

I think its more work than it's worth. Cold crashing, finings and being patient can replace a filter.

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Home Brew mobile app

 

[Homercidal]

I've brewed a few beers that might have been improved with a filter, but generally, with good practices, you can make beer as it's intended, either crystal clear or slightly cloudy.

I currently have a Rye Pale Ale that never did clear. I don't know if there was something wrong with the water chemistry, fermentation temps, or what, but the mouthfeel is thick and there is significant cloudiness. I've added gelatin, but it did nothing. I'd consider filtering it to try to save it, but it doesn't taste that great either, so it's likely going to be sent to the city water department via pipe as soon as I get another couple of kegs brewed to replace it.

So, I think a filter has a place, but honestly if you are having consistently cloudy beers, you may want to look into some of the common reasons why and try to correct it. I know a brewery who makes great beer and they choose to use a filter because they can turn the beer around faster. At first I was dubious, but after sampling a bunch of their beer, I don't sense a problem with it.

If you got the money to spend on one, go for it. It will add a few dollars to every batch you use it on.

 

[billl]

Filters work. They'll clear a beer in a matter of minutes. If you are in a total rush, they could be a benefit.

Otherwise, they are costly and kinda a pain - especially when the alternative is just letting the beer sit there and clear on its own.

 

[Gameface]

I used a plate filter for a while. It's a pain, the filter pads are expensive, if it clogs it is very frustrating and you end up loosing a considerable amount of beer as you change out filters on the fly.

I've since started using gelatin. Much easier, similar results.

 

[Jipper]

I use a plate filter on certain batches. When I'm bringing beer to a party, entering in a competition or giving away as gifts I'll generally take the time to filter (depending on style). For friends and family, I'm going for the appearance effect and the "this looks like commercial, and tastes like it too!" comments. For competition, I like clearing the beer up for appearance purposes, but filtering your beer also cleans up the flavor. In a beer without any off-flavors (which sometimes a filter will make more obvious) I think you can pick out the hop flavors more easily.

This being said, I'll only filter Pale Ales, IPAs, Kolsch, and lagers. Anything where cloudy is acceptable, I don't spend the time even using gelatin on.

Cheers!

 

[hunter_le five]

I filtered my beer for a while, using a plate filter. Do they work? Yes. But to be honest, it seems like more trouble than it is worth to me. Sanitation, setup, filtering, and cleanup are all kind of a PITA.

I've found I can get equally clear beer through the following method, and it requires very little work, just more time (perfect for me because I love to procrastinate). If you have an adequate pipeline the time thing is not an issue:

1) Extended primary
2) Cold Crash
3) Gelatin
4) Lager (both ales and lagers)

Might not be appropriate for all styles (IPAs, hefes, etc) but generally seems to improve my beer just as much as a filter would, but with less work and fuss.

 

[Gameface]

One thing to add, if you do use a plate filter cold crashing before filtering is pretty much a requirement to avoid clogging the filter. If you're already going to cold crash I figure might as well add some gelatin and skip the filter.

I also believe I've introduced problems by using the filter. I still don't know what the best method for use is. One time I used it without flushing the oxygen from it first and it oxidized my beer.

 

[beerbeer95648]

I agree with others are saying. I have a 5 plate Marcon filter from days long gone that I occasionally use. I like having the ability to filter, however it is a pain. You have to have a clean, purged keg to filter into. You need to have a very cold keg and a purged system. With a plate filter, you need to "sweeten" the sheets with an acid to remove the paper flavor, then push that all out with CO2 or beer (some loss), then push out the filter post filtration (to avoid more loss). It does however turn around a beer fast. Both in flavor and appearance. But, if you are getting the keg cold anyway, gelatin and a week of cold lagering will do a lot for a beer. I sometimes cold crash and add gelatin, then rack under pressure to a clean keg for a trip or party.

 

[kh54s10]

I have never filtered my beer and have never felt the need. Most of my beers are very clear. Just don't rush it.

 

[BigFloyd]

There are good brewing practices you can follow to produce wonderfully clear beer without filtering:

1) Bag your hops or use a spider

2) Add Whirlfloc (or Irish Moss if you like) to the boil at 10 min.

3) After chilling, cover the brew kettle and let things settle 15-20 min before transferring to the fermenter. Try to leave as much gunk behind in the kettle as you can.

4) After fermentation is complete, if you have the means to do so, cold crash to 35-36*F at least 4 days. I usually let mine go a week. Gelatinize if you wish.

5) When moving the fermenter to prepare for priming/bottling, be gentle and try to not slosh it around. If you crashed, rack to the bottling bucket or keg while the beer is still cold. Try to not suck much of the bucket trub into your siphon.

 

[Black]

There are good brewing practices you can follow to produce wonderfully clear beer without filtering:

1) Bag your hops or use a spider

2) Add Whirlfloc (or Irish Moss if you like) to the boil at 10 min.

3) After chilling, cover the brew kettle and let things settle 15-20 min before transferring to the fermenter. Try to leave as much gunk behind in the kettle as you can.

4) After fermentation is complete, if you have the means to do so, cold crash to 35-36*F at least 4 days. I usually let mine go a week. Gelatinize if you wish.

5) When moving the fermenter to prepare for priming/bottling, be gentle and try to not slosh it around. If you crashed, rack to the bottling bucket or keg while the beer is still cold. Try to not suck much of the bucket trub into your siphon.

+1000

I get crystal clear beer with that method. For me it seems to work very good after 10-15 days cold crashed with gelatin. People ask me how I filter when I pour a pint from the keg.

 

[BigFloyd]

People ask me how I filter when I pour a pint from the keg.

I love it when I get that same question.

 

[IwanaBrich]

I have been brewing for a number of years and I've only had 1 cloudy batch of beer in all that time and I haven't filtered. Well my last 2 batches just wont seem to clear. Both seem fine, smell good and tasted good, so I think they are okay. I used Irish Moss in one and gelatin in the other.

Normally I bottle my beer and would just wait until the bottles cleared before serving. Well now I'm just getting into kegging and I'm concerned that when l cool the kegs, everthing will settle out to the bottom of the kegs. I'm worried that anytime I pour a beer, that I'm going to stir it all up again since the Keg feeds from the bottom. Is this a real concern? So..... I thought filtering maybe an option.

For those of you do filter your beer, I was looking at a whole house cartridge filter system (1micron). Can they be gravity fed or should I use the CO2? Does this use up a lot of CO2? How easy is it to sanitize the filters? Is that even necessary? Can the filters be cleaned and used again? Since I have 2 batches ready to be kegged can I fitter one batch and move to the next or do I need to clean/replace the filter?

Lastly I can't "cold crash" the carboys because they don't fit in my friderator. I tried using the unheated side of my basement, but there was too much temperature swing so it didn't help.

Thanks

 

[billl]

" I'm worried that anytime I pour a beer, that I'm going to stir it all up again"

That will happen for a couple pints, but after that it should run clear - unless you move the keg.

"For those of you do filter your beer, I was looking at a whole house cartridge filter system (1micron). Can they be gravity fed or should I use the CO2? Does this use up a lot of CO2? How easy is it to sanitize the filters? Is that even necessary? Can the filters be cleaned and used again? Since I have 2 batches ready to be kegged can I fitter one batch and move to the next or do I need to clean/replace the filter?
"

Whole house filters work. You probably want to run 5m then 1m or the 1m will clog pretty quickly. You'll need to push with CO2, but it really doesn't take that much. Sanitize the filer by soaking in some starsan as long as the housings and transfer tubes. You can use the filters for 2 batches right in a row, as long as they hold up. They are not cleanable though, so you need to toss them after each batch.

 

[Homercidal]

I have been brewing for a number of years and I've only had 1 cloudy batch of beer in all that time and I haven't filtered. Well my last 2 batches just wont seem to clear. Both seem fine, smell good and tasted good, so I think they are okay. I used Irish Moss in one and gelatin in the other.

Normally I bottle my beer and would just wait until the bottles cleared before serving. Well now I'm just getting into kegging and I'm concerned that when l cool the kegs, everthing will settle out to the bottom of the kegs. I'm worried that anytime I pour a beer, that I'm going to stir it all up again since the Keg feeds from the bottom. Is this a real concern? So..... I thought filtering maybe an option.

For those of you do filter your beer, I was looking at a whole house cartridge filter system (1micron). Can they be gravity fed or should I use the CO2? Does this use up a lot of CO2? How easy is it to sanitize the filters? Is that even necessary? Can the filters be cleaned and used again? Since I have 2 batches ready to be kegged can I fitter one batch and move to the next or do I need to clean/replace the filter?

Lastly I can't "cold crash" the carboys because they don't fit in my friderator. I tried using the unheated side of my basement, but there was too much temperature swing so it didn't help.

Thanks

As far as clear beer and kegging it's really great. Once the stuff settles the dip tube might pick up a glass or two when it sucks the sediment up from the pile on the bottom of the keg, but after that, unless you disturb the keg, it will pick up clean beer.

One trick I've been doing lately is to get a keg to settle, then flush a new keg with CO2 and "jumper" from one keg to the other using a short piece of liquid line.

Pressurize the receiving keg to the same PSI as the cleared keg.
Connect the two kegs between the two liquid posts.
Turn gas down to a low pressure and slowly allow the gas to escape from the receiving keg.
It will fill gently, leaving the sediment in the previous keg.
Then you will have a keg filled with beer that won't cloud up if and when you have to take it to a party!

I keep forgetting, but I really want to build a bleeder valve into this setup so I can regulate to some degree how fast the keg fills. That device ought to be simply a bleeder valve threaded onto a QD, or connected using a short piece of hose.

 

[adixon3]

Filtering removes yeast, tannins and some large proteins from the beer that contribute both to off flavors and haze. While many of these impurities will eventually precipitate out of the beer through lagering and aging, filtering accelerates the process by removing them in minutes instead of weeks or months. This is a big reason why commercial brewers use filters - time is money and it is much cheaper for them to filter the beer than store it for weeks or months.
Filtering also has the advantage that it can remove very small impurities from the beer - even those that would not fall out of suspension in the natural aging process. Filters can remove particles as small as 1 micron or even smaller. This can result in a cleaner flavor and much better clarity than is possible with natural aging
Despite the fact that filtering can be used to accelerate the aging of your beer, you don't want to filter your home brewed beer too early. Some important chemical changes take place during the later phases of fermentation and early aging. If you halt these too early by filtering you will end up with poor flavor balance. Commercial brewers use a additives and techniques that allow them to filter earlier.
Allow the beer to fully complete fermentation and then sit in the secondary for at least 2-3 weeks before filtering, then move it to your keg.

 

[Gameface]

Filtering removes yeast, tannins and some large proteins from the beer that contribute both to off flavors and haze. While many of these impurities will eventually precipitate out of the beer through lagering and aging, filtering accelerates the process by removing them in minutes instead of weeks or months. This is a big reason why commercial brewers use filters - time is money and it is much cheaper for them to filter the beer than store it for weeks or months.
Filtering also has the advantage that it can remove very small impurities from the beer - even those that would not fall out of suspension in the natural aging process. Filters can remove particles as small as 1 micron or even smaller. This can result in a cleaner flavor and much better clarity than is possible with natural aging
Despite the fact that filtering can be used to accelerate the aging of your beer, you don't want to filter your home brewed beer too early. Some important chemical changes take place during the later phases of fermentation and early aging. If you halt these too early by filtering you will end up with poor flavor balance. Commercial brewers use a additives and techniques that allow them to filter earlier.
Allow the beer to fully complete fermentation and then sit in the secondary for at least 2-3 weeks before filtering, then move it to your keg.

Wow, filters speed things up? On my ESBs I ferment for 10 days, cold crash for 3, add gelatin just after transferring to kegs and then let them sit on gas for 5 days before I start sneaking "samples" and the beer is clean and clear by then.

I agree that filters can improve the flavor of beer. But I also think that they can hurt the flavor if not used correctly. And as I've improved various other aspects of my beer making and beer handling techniques I think I get very similar results with gelatin without the added expense and headache of filtering. Filtering wasn't fun. I'd often ask myself in the middle of a troublesome filtering experience why I gave up the mess of bottling for kegs if I have to deal with all the hassle of filtering.

 

[Gameface]

I used two plate filters inline. The first was the course and the second was the fine filter. Sometimes on a good day I could complete the filtering process in 30-45 min. On other days I watch the flow grind to a halt...and then I'd up the pressure a bit, then the filter housing would leak a little, I'd crank it down, the flow would slow to an unbearable crawl again, I'd up the pressure some more, I'd check my transfer tubing to see if the bubbles were being pushed in the right direction, I'd wring my hands and pace back and fourth a little, check the bubbles again, check how full the keg was...only 1/4 full! It's been an hour and a half! Okay, time to replace the filter pads. Disconnect the filters, bring to sink, open, watch a beer or two go down the drain, add new filters, sanitize, worry about oxidation. Flowing again, but before long going slow again. Deciding that filtering one keg's worth of my 10G batch would do this time.

^filtering

 

[Teromous]

I've used a number of cartridge filters on various beers. The pro is that you can get clear beer. Here's some cons:

- You need to keep track of all the parts. Missing one small thing like a gasket will cause the whole thing to fail.

- Cartridges don't all fit correctly and can cause leaks.

- If you have a lot of suspended particles (like cocoa powder) you will need to filter the beer with multiple grades of filters or it will get clogged.

- You will lose some beer every time you filter. If you filter multiple passes...well, you know...

- Reusable cartridges sounds nicer than they are. They are not easy to backflush and store. I can go more into that but it can get long and drawn out...

- You are not guaranteed to filter everything. The biggest thing that was not removable was pectin haze. I went down to 0.5 micron on various things like cider and fruit beer and there are some things that just will not clear. Your "normal beers" will probably clear just fine, but most of those clear just fine with the alternatives. The key thing to take away is you can still have cloudy beer after using clarity agents, cold crashing, and filtering.

- It really is a pain to use these systems. The hoses flop around, the cartridge holder really needs to be in a bucket in case it leaks. If a hose moves there's a possibility that it will rotate just enough to cause the cartridge holder to leak. You can't over tighten because the cartridge holder is made of plastic. If you under tighten it leaks. Even when pushing with CO2 it's best to elevate the primary keg and there can be a lot of back pressure preventing flow through the filter.

- Troubleshooting is a PAIN! If something doesn't work you have to check all your tubing, make sure you put them in the right in/out holes on the cartridge holder. It could be a crimped or blocked hose, it could be a clogged cartridge, maybe the cartridge was slightly off centered when you installed it and tightened down the lid and now it's either not filtering or it's leaking. Maybe your CO2 pressure is too low, or it could be that your primary or secondary ball lock connects are blocked. So...this might not sound bad...if you're not a total idiot and hook everything up correctly nothing can go wrong...right? Well the problem is that when you do have a hiccup, you have a filtering system full of beer. Troubleshooting it means you will have to dump all that beer...where? Back in the keg? Down the drain? In a glass to drink flat? The alternative is that you do a wet run with some water. What this means is that there's more work because now you have to push water through a keg before beer...then when you're done you'll want to drain out that water and push with some beer...most likely losing some of that beer in the process (I don't want water mixed in with beer so the first couple of seconds get dumped out).

- Filters aren't cheap, and neither is losing beer (some of it is left behind in the filter holder).

- The process is slow if you want it to be effective. Push too fast and it won't filter as well. But it takes forever to filter through the smaller micron and sub-micron filters.

- You will lose some flavor. I suppose it depends on the recipe and your palate, but I noticed a loss in flavor. This is especially the case when you add things like spice, fruit, or chocolate to the beer. You added it, now you're taking most of it back out. I haven't filtered a dry-hop beer so I can't speak on how it effects hop flavor or aroma.

- It's more stuff to store and replace, because now you have extra hoses and stuff. If you have to replace hoses on your wort chiller, auto-siphon, kegging system, etc...this is just one more thing to add to the tally. And you had better remember to unscrew everything to let it air dry.

 

[Homercidal]

Yep, I've heard stories of all of the above. A homebrew filter system is not a simple thing, usually. Another reason I have chosen not to get one. The one I bought a while back was a very simple style and it was horrible. I am not sure why I still have it stored out in the garage.

 

[billl]

"The alternative is that you do a wet run with some water. "

A better alternative is to do a wet run with starsan. That way, you sanitize both kegs, the filter, hoses, etc.

 

[Teromous]

"The alternative is that you do a wet run with some water. "

A better alternative is to do a wet run with starsan. That way, you sanitize both kegs, the filter, hoses, etc.

I've done it with starsan before pumping it from keg to keg. I'm not a huge fan of the foamy mess. I'll probably get some of that new saniclean non-foaming stuff, but I really don't see myself filtering a beer any time in the near future...maybe a wine though...

 

[BigFloyd]

It's interesting to hear from the folks that USED TO filter and why they no longer do so.

I have no plans to ever start the practice.

 

[adixon3]

Wow, filters speed things up? On my ESBs I ferment for 10 days, cold crash for 3, add gelatin just after transferring to kegs and then let them sit on gas for 5 days before I start sneaking "samples" and the beer is clean and clear by then.

I agree that filters can improve the flavor of beer. But I also think that they can hurt the flavor if not used correctly. And as I've improved various other aspects of my beer making and beer handling techniques I think I get very similar results with gelatin without the added expense and headache of filtering. Filtering wasn't fun. I'd often ask myself in the middle of a troublesome filtering experience why I gave up the mess of bottling for kegs if I have to deal with all the hassle of filtering.

Yes, I understand that but the filter should be fine enough to filter out tannins and yeast cells, but not too fine or like your said it could alter the flavor of your finished beer. Around 1 micron is the sweet spot for filter size - smaller than 0.5 microns and you risk filtering out some flavor. To hit on the hassle part of the process a lot of homebrewers use household water filters that are slow and prone to clogging try using an inline canister filter designed for use with beer with a replaceable filter element. These are inexpensive and work well if you have high quality filter cartridges just change the filter often because these will eventually clog also.

 

[Gameface]

Yes, I understand that but the filter should be fine enough to filter out tannins and yeast cells, but not too fine or like your said it could alter the flavor of your finished beer. Around 1 micron is the sweet spot for filter size - smaller than 0.5 microns and you risk filtering out some flavor. To hit on the hassle part of the process a lot of homebrewers use household water filters that are slow and prone to clogging try using an inline canister filter designed for use with beer with a replaceable filter element. These are inexpensive and work well if you have high quality filter cartridges just change the filter often because these will eventually clog also.

Where would something like that be available? I've seen whole house cannister water filters advertised for use in filtering finished beer and I've seen plate filters that I think were originally intended for wine. I used the plate variety.

 

[bajaedition]

I filter every beer down to the 5 micron level
does everyone need to do it, no
does it filter out a significant amount of stuff, yes

I do a lot of stuff a lot of guys do not do, why?, because it gets results

face it, you can make beer by fermenting wort, bottle it and get good beer

also look at what professional brewers do, if they did not have to do a step, they would not and save money, and professional brewers filter their beers. not all beers, but most beers

is filtering beer a pain? depends on your personality, I enjoy it, others do not.

Is it worth it? Depends on the brewer, I think it is, I feel I get a better tasting, cleaner and clearer beer. others who do not filter claim I am full of it. but again, why would professional brewers do it if they could save millions by not doing it? because a lot of guys would not drink a bottle of beer with sediment in it that's why. And I do not want sediment in the bottom of my bottles. OH I force carbonate also.

when I share a beer with a friend, I have extreme pride in what I have done, and I do not want him telling others that he had one of my home brews and it had junk in it. I love it when they hold the beer up to the light and compliment how clear it is.

now those are my reasons to filter my beer, I would suggest you try it one time before deciding on your own if you want to filter or not.

 

[Teromous]

Yes, I understand that but the filter should be fine enough to filter out tannins and yeast cells, but not too fine or like your said it could alter the flavor of your finished beer. Around 1 micron is the sweet spot for filter size - smaller than 0.5 microns and you risk filtering out some flavor. To hit on the hassle part of the process a lot of homebrewers use household water filters that are slow and prone to clogging try using an inline canister filter designed for use with beer with a replaceable filter element. These are inexpensive and work well if you have high quality filter cartridges just change the filter often because these will eventually clog also.

It's good to know that there's something out there that is a lot less of a hassle. I would also be interested in knowing where these can be purchased. If you could provide a link or a supplier name I would be interested in checking it out. I'm not sure if I'll try another filtering system but who knows...

Right now I have a system from Midwest Homebrew Supply and use the filters that they sell. My experiences listed above are from this system. I've used 5 micron, 1 micron, and 0.5 micron cartridges. It looks like this:

The cartridges that I've used from them are these disposable ones:

Also I've used these re-usable ones:

 

[BigFloyd]

also look at what professional brewers do, if they did not have to do a step, they would not and save money, and professional brewers filter their beers. not all beers, but most beers

I would not try to persuade anyone to not filter if they so desire and I certainly do appreciate clear beer. It's just not for me at this stage in my homebrewing experience. Plus, I'm not sure that I have room for any more brewing/fermenting/lagering/kegging gear.

I've never bought into the reasoning that, if the pros do it then so should I. They have production, volume, efficiency, timing and marketing concerns that I do not. Some of their valid reasons for filtering don't necessarily translate over to my homebrewing needs. Another good example of this is their practice of moving the beer off the yeast and into a bright tank (aka secondary) as soon as they can (due to the real risk of yeast autolysis in large conical fermenters). Unfortunately, it's led to that still being taught to new home brewers (mostly via certain outdated kit instructions) when they'd be much better off skipping the secondary altogether for most beers.