Hello all, I have decided to start a small home brew operation and I have learned a lot from reading this forum. I have the green light to brew in our unfinished basement. It is a constant 9-11 degrees celcius winter and summer. Can I ferment the beer in this temperature? Is there a yeast that work work best? I have ordered a starters kit which comes with an Irish Red Ale recommended for beginners. Thanks.
Fermenting temperature
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brewdude88
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Those are lager fermentation temps, You can use literally anything as long as you have some sort of way to heat the fermenter (ferm-wrap with inkbird controller). For lagers, if you're just starting, I would suggest saflager 34/70 dry yeast pitched at 10ish Celsius (2 packs for 5 gallons) and just let it ferment most of the way without temp control with a temp ramp at the end for attenuation/D-rest. for ales, like the Irish Red, you will have to warm things up a bit for most ale yeasts. Safale US-05 has proven itself a low temp workhorse, although 11 degrees is a little too low for it hence the need for some heat application.
Welcome to the hobby, and appreciate those basement temps! many brewers would kill to have a space with an ambient temperature in that range! it's way easier to warm fermentation the to cool it.
Welcome to the hobby, and appreciate those basement temps! many brewers would kill to have a space with an ambient temperature in that range! it's way easier to warm fermentation the to cool it.
brewdude88
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I'm sure the heat pad would work, you just need a temp controller to turn the heat pad off and on as needed. I use the inkbird ITC-308. The probe gets placed on the opposite side of the fermenter from the heat wrap, covered with bubble wrap for insulation and held on by duct tape. Then the heating wrap is plugged into the heat outlet on the programmed inkbird. This holds the temperature to +-1 degree.
I agree , get a fermwrap ( they work really well) and an inkbird and your set . I sandwich the thermometer between the fermenter and sponge then tape . Fermentation temp is key , and you have a perfect set up. Welcome to the forum and hobby!
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Transamguy77
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A heating pad will work but you will need to control it, there is a couple of temp controllers out there to choose from and plans to DIY one using an st1000.
You could be making some light lagers for the summer now at those temps. And yes some of us would kill to have a place that stays that temp all year round.
You could be making some light lagers for the summer now at those temps. And yes some of us would kill to have a place that stays that temp all year round.
VikeMan
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@JawnnyO it's true that your basement temp is pretty good for lager beer fermentations, but if you want to make lagers, you'll also need a way to keep the beer at about 4C (or lower) after fermentation, for the lagering phase.
Great info, thanks. I'm going to test sitting a carboy full of water on top of my heating pad on top of some insulation to see if set at low it will keep a constant temperature. Am I aiming for 18-19C? Can it be higher or lower as long as it is consistant?
VikeMan
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What yeast strain/style will you be using/brewing?
Transamguy77
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the only downside to that test is when beer is fermenting it will generate heat sometimes as much as 10 degrees F and it is moving inside your fermentation vessel so there is heat transfer due to the movement of the liquid. Your test has the liquid just sitting there.
I'm not sure what yeast is supplied, I receive the kit sometime next week. I am trying to get as much information as I can anhead of time as I think I will want to get started as soon as it arrives.
ncbrewer
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I use a seedling warming pad tied to the side of the swamp cooler. I asked the manufacturer if it would be ok to set a bucket of liquid on the pad. They said it could be a fire hazard if used that way, I guess because it traps the heat.
Gnomebrewer
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The easiest option for your Irish red kit is to ditch the yeast it comes with (most likely an ale yeast, quite possibly S04 or similar) and buy a packet or two of lager yeast, such as W34/70. Red ales work nicely with lager yeast, and won't need any heating. Give it three weeks to fement in your basement, then bottle if the gravity is stable. Or, to speed things up a bit, one week in your basement followed by 5 days at room/house temperature. Ideally, after it's carbonated (about three weeks), store bottles in the fridge for a couple of weeks before drinking. If the brewing bug has bitten after a batch or two, a temp-controlled chamber or heat wrap is the way to go.
Good answers! There is a lot to learn here. The kit is from Goldsteam. Irish Red Ale. I got the electric kettle with 4500w. I didn't realise how expensive 30 amp GFCIs are, so my budget is a little stretched. And delivery of a controller is at best three weeks for my location. Now that I see I can use a lager yeast I think I will take that route. Thanks for all the support. I am getting anxious for my delivery!
VikeMan
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So, a little googling shows that kit probably comes with US-05, unless you order it as "No Yeast Required." US-05 can work over a pretty wide range of temperatures, including low 60s F, so above 16C or so.
When doing a Lager a diacetyl rest should be included . Lagers take some care and a little more attention then Ales . Ales are more forgiving . When doing a Lager it's best to ramp up your temp a few degrees a day when the fermentation is about 75% completed . Once it gets to the high 60's you leave it for 3 days then go back down a few degrees a day until it gets to Lager temps (36-40) . Either way your gonna need a way to warm it up , then cool it down . I advise sticking to Ales until you have the proper set up . Brew your beer , pitch your yeast at the lower end of yeast desired temp . The fermentation will kick up the temp . Then after about 5 days move it up to the main house and keep at room temp , letting the yeast clean itself up.
Mac MacFarlane
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I just started brewing as well. I also brew in a unfinished basement that's around 12c. This is my setup, I have a fermwrap on one and heating pad on the other fermenter and insulated with foil. I have no problem keeping any temp I want with the controllers.
After serious negotiation I have the short term okay to ferment upstairs until I am able to get the fermentation temperature controllers. I am waiting for my kit which is supposed to arrive today, and the GFCI circuit and 30 amp switch from Lowes who have not yet given a delivery date. Also waiting for the SSVR so I can control the kettle.
I'm glad Vikeman thinks the yeast is fine. I think I will follow Jag75's suggestion, once everything arrives and I get it up and running. Hopefully that will not be more than a week.
You're quite a bit ahead of me Mac. So far all I have is order confirmations and credit card debt. Not very drinkable.
I'm glad Vikeman thinks the yeast is fine. I think I will follow Jag75's suggestion, once everything arrives and I get it up and running. Hopefully that will not be more than a week.
You're quite a bit ahead of me Mac. So far all I have is order confirmations and credit card debt. Not very drinkable.
Gnomebrewer
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What's your upstairs temperature?
Gnomebrewer
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17C room-temp for US05 is quite good - it means a 5gallon ferment will sit at around 19C at peak activity. If you can, bump the room temp up to 19C three days after you see a big, frothy krausen (typically four to five days after pitching) - that'll help the yeast finish off. If you don't the ferment temperature will actually cool down closer to the 17C room temp, and slow down the yeast activity (like us, they get sluggish and don't want to work when they get cool).
VikeMan
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There are ways to (electro)chemically etch markings in brew kettles. You might also consider putting depth markings on a stick or stirring paddle.
Are you putting in a dedicated circuit using #10 gauge wiring and that GFCI breaker?
Those breakers can be expensive, but they have come down the past 10 years. A 20A double pole QO breaker for my pool pump was $192 at the time.
Amazon may have the same breaker for less.
That's why many of us put in a $75-100 spa panel, which gives us 50A of GFCI, including a 110V circuit.
Those breakers can be expensive, but they have come down the past 10 years. A 20A double pole QO breaker for my pool pump was $192 at the time.
Amazon may have the same breaker for less.
That's why many of us put in a $75-100 spa panel, which gives us 50A of GFCI, including a 110V circuit.
You can use a marked wooden dowel or your stirring spoon as dipstick.
I finally have everything and set. The kettle and SSVR work quite well with boiling water. When I opened my ingredient box. everything was stuck to the bottom. Something punctured one of the containers of LME. It seems to be down about half. The steeping grains are pre-measured and mixed ready to be dropped in the kettle. I have been on BrewMate and tried to figure out how to balance with maple syrup, (which I have a lot of) but it is a little beyond me. Any suggestions? Thanks.
That sucks!
Do you know the gravity (sugar content) of the maple syrup? Otherwise measure it. Calculate how much syrup you need to get to your intended gravity and replace that amount of brewing water with the syrup. If you want to retain the subtle maple syrup flavors and aroma, boil with the reduced amount of water, and add the maple syrup to your fermenter.
Okay, thanks. I made the maple syrup this spring and it is a little sweeter than it is supposed to be 68 brix. I added a 1/2 cup in the boil and my OG was 140 instead of 148. It is still cooling so I could add more syrup but I don't know how much. Will yeast it tonight.
I will definitely get a wort chiller before next try. It is taking forever to chill. The pot is too big for my sink with the spout and electrical attachment. No bathtub or kiddie pool.
I will definitely get a wort chiller before next try. It is taking forever to chill. The pot is too big for my sink with the spout and electrical attachment. No bathtub or kiddie pool.
Gnomebrewer
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Do you mean 1.040 instead of 1.048?
If so, and you want to increase it to 1.048 with syrup, you need 8 more points of gravity.
Your syrup is 68 brix, which is about 1.340 SG.
So, 40 x v1 + 340 x v2 = 48 (v1 + v2) = 48v1 + 48v2 (where v1 is volume of wort, v2 is volume of syrup)
292v2 = 8v1
v2 = v1/36.5
So, you need to divide your wort volume by 36.5 to work out how much syrup you need.
If you have a 5 gallon batch, you need to add 520mL, or roughly 2 cups, of syrup to get the gravity to 1.048.
Holy Toledo! I have so much to learn.
I was trying for a 5 gallon (19 litre) batch - starting with 24.5 litres for the grains in a bag. Because my pot tap got plugged (with hops I think) I left 4 litres. so do I add 520 ml syrup and 3480 ml water to get to 19 litres?
I was trying for a 5 gallon (19 litre) batch - starting with 24.5 litres for the grains in a bag. Because my pot tap got plugged (with hops I think) I left 4 litres. so do I add 520 ml syrup and 3480 ml water to get to 19 litres?
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Gnomebrewer
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No. I think you're saying you have 15L of 1.040 wort?
If that's correct, then add 410mL of syrup to get 15.4L of 1.048 wort.
