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Fermentasaurus and Blichman Beer Gun

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andyn2001

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Has anyone used a Blichman Beer Gun to bottle carbonated beer direct from the Fermentasaurus. I think it should be possible, and planned to brew tomorrow and try this.

I see two massive advantages in this:

1. No need to prime
2. No need to transfer to a keg and fill from that.
 

svebrekk

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Has anyone used a Blichman Beer Gun to bottle carbonated beer direct from the Fermentasaurus. I think it should be possible, and planned to brew tomorrow and try this.

I see two massive advantages in this:

1. No need to prime
2. No need to transfer to a keg and fill from that.
Works great. Cheers [emoji4][emoji1303]
 
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andyn2001

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Great news!

May I ask a question, I assume you used a spunding valve, what pressure did you set it to and how long was the beer under pressure before bottling?
 

svebrekk

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Great news!

May I ask a question, I assume you used a spunding valve, what pressure did you set it to and how long was the beer under pressure before bottling?
I usually set the spunding valve at around 17-20 psi. If I ferment in room temperature. But you need to calculate how much carbonation you want from a chart or an online calculator, if you want correct amount of carbonation.
 
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andyn2001

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I usually set the spunding valve at around 17-20 psi. If I ferment in room temperature. But you need to calculate how much carbonation you want from a chart or an online calculator, if you want correct amount of carbonation.
Just used the gun for the first time.......disaster!!! The beer was far too "excited" and just frothed out the bottles. I lost over 3 litres in froth out of a 15L batch!!

I opened one bottle today, and no head, yet there was some carbonation. I think the fact I had to lose so much beer per bottle is prob the reason. Plus I couldn't leave a small headspace in the bottle as every time I tried to close it the beer just frothed up and out of the bottles.

So, reading the gun's instructions. It says to set the CO2 pressure to max 6PSI when using, which I did. But, it also said the reason for my probs are most likely over carbonation. Now, I took samples leading up to and on bottling day and in no way was the beer over carbonated.

This is how I carbonated, during fermention I let spunding valve get up to 15, but then it started to lose pressure and for the next couple of days it probably hovvered around 7. When I stopped the leaks in the cap I then cold crashed for 3 days at 15 PSI. Is this the problem, too fast carbonating at the end? I'm thinking if I can keep at 15 for the first 7 days, I'll then reduce to 10 for cold crashing, and even night before down to 6PSI for bottling pressure. I get the feeling the beer was over excited, like when you shake a can of coke, but it most definitely wasn't over carbonated.

Any thoughts?!
 

cpham574

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Were the bottles cold? If they were warm then it’s going to give you foam. Try reducing pressure and use cold bottles and cold beergun
 

Blazinlow86

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You have to use the calculator and set to the correct levels or your always gonna be fighting it. I generally carb at 3.3c at about 12 psi. I occasionally use the beer gun to bottle out of the kegs but right before bottling I release the keg pressure and set the regulator at 3psi. As others have noted cold wet bottles will make a big difference. But to be clear your method of winging the carbonating will likely cause you issues until you follow a chart exactly. cheers
 

Christian Marcussen

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I have been bottling directly from my Fermentasaurus after fermentation under pressure. The beers I have done so far have been great and the bottling have gone smooth. I have cold crashed the beers at 0,5 celcius for a fee days before bottling and have used as cold bottles as my cold (sanitized) tapwater allowed, which was around 5 c as I remember. My question is in regards to a good psi level to bottle at. I have so far used this chart for finding my psi level: https://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table/
So when I bottle at around 0,5 celcius (32F) the chart says 8 psi. But my beers have so far generally been a little under carbonated I think. And also I am not sure how long I need to cold crash it to be sure the psi level reading can be trusted. For example I am now making a beer that was set to 15 psi at the end of fermentation (was set to 5-10 psi during primary fermentation). It has now been coldcrashing for 24 hours and is only down to 10 psi. I asumed I would have to add extra CO2 pressure but reading the chart from above 10 seems be ok. So here my questions are: can I expect my pressure to drop further? Should I add extra pressure? How long do I need to wait for the beer to absorb any added CO2 at 0,5 C (32 F)? And last but not least: Anybody have any standard pressuresettings they have been succesfully using in fermenting, cold crashing and bottling from a Fermentasaurus that I can use in the future?

Hope that made sense and will greatly appreciate any thoughts or advise.

/Christian
 
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