Feedback on IPA recipe

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suitbrewing

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Hi all

I would appreciate any feedback on my recipe below.
I want to make a blonde, fruity, balanced American IPA.

I am restricted by my hop inventory (100g Centenial, 100gr Mosaic, 100gr Sorachi Ace, 80gr Columbus and 40gr Chinook, 100gr Warrior, 30gr Cascade, 100gr Crystal)

The beersmith recipe can be found here
http://beersmithrecipes.com/viewrecipe/1232834/nail-the-ipale-mosaic-centenial-aipa

Batch Size: 5.81 gal
Style: American IPA (21A)
Boil Size: 8.19 gal
Color: 5.2 SRM
Bitterness: 61.1 IBUs
Boil Time: 70 min
Est OG: 1.063 (15.4° P)
Mash Profile: Single Infusion, Medium Body, No Mash Out
Est FG: 1.009 SG (2.3° P)
Fermentation: Ale, Two Stage
ABV: 7.1%

Grain bill

10 lbs 9.32 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) Bel (3.0 SRM)
7.05 oz Munich Malt (9.0 SRM)
7.05 oz Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM)
10.58 oz Dememera Sugar (2.0 SRM)

Hops

0.49 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [17.0%] - Boil 60 min
1.00 oz Centennial [9.2%] - Boil 15 min
1.00 oz Mosaic [11.7%] - Boil 15 min
1.00 oz Mosaic [11.7%] - Boil 1 min
1.00 oz Centennial [9.2%] - Boil 1 min
1.52 oz Mosaic [11.7%] - Dry Hop 7 days
1.52 oz Centennial [9.2%] - Dry Hop 7 days

Other
0.25 tsp Irish Moss (Boil 10 min)
1 pkgs California Ale (White Labs #WLP001) Yeast 11
 

Wolfbayne

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I would recommend changing the hop schedule:

60 min 1 oz mosaic
10 min .5 oz mosaic
Flame out 1 oz mosaic and centennial

Dry hop:
3-4 days each even split mosiac/Centenial remove and add other half for 3-4 days

This will prevent grassy garlic from the mosaic. Also, need to get at min 4 oz for dry hop to get a nice nose!

This is only an opinion of mine...lol
 

jerbrew

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I've brewed many beers with a lot of mosaic and have never experienced any "grassy garlic" flavors. I think the recipe that @wolfbayne suggested is fine but not what you're intending on brewing. If that is all the hops you have available i'd say it looks like a good plan. Some might say go 10 or 5 minutes instead of 15. I personally like 15 minute additions if i'm doing a significant flame out/whirlpool. Either way I think this will make a good beer and don't waste your mosaic on a bittering addition. Unless you have a lot of mosaic on hand I'd keep the CTZ for bittering. Good luck

Edit to add: I've also brewed almost this same exact beer using just Vienna malt and it turned out great. the only difference whas I dry hopped with 2 Oz of mosaic and no centennial (I ran out).
 
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suitbrewing

suitbrewing

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Thank you all for your feedback!

I will stick with the Columbus for bittering and 50/50 Centennial Mosaic additions.

@jerbrew would you change your flameout routine for an ipa in any way??

I have a gravity system. I would normally start chilling with my immersion chiller as soon as i flameout.

I use a hop spider which i remove halfway during chilling (say @60c). I chill all the way to just below pitching temp.

On the grain bill do you think that Vienna would be a better alternative to the Munich?? I want to keep the beer easy going/ drinkable??

To get to 4oz dry hopping would you use any of my other hops?? Maybe some of the Columbus or some Chinook??
 

jerbrew

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For my flameout additions, I turn off the heat set up my whirlpool with a pump and throw in my hips. I let them stand for about 20 minutes and then I start chilling with my immersion chiller.

I used Vienna as my only malt (sorry if that wasn't clear) I think the Munich you have is just fine. It will ad a bit a character and color without the sweetness of crystal malts.

As for dry hopping, it really seems to be a preference thing. A lot of people can't get enough aroma from hops and say there's a minimum for dry hopping. In my experience 3 oz is going to give you good nose especially with the hops you have. I think you're good but that's what I think. I say brew it and take notes. Maybe next time add more/different dry hops
 
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suitbrewing

suitbrewing

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A week ago I have brewed the beer.
I pitched the WLP1 @ 1.058
A week later I am @ 1.010 (its been a couple of days).
I intent to perform a diacetyl rest for the next two days (21c today, 22c tomorrow) and then rack to a clean fermentor for another 7 days where I will perform the dry hopping.
I am still undecided whether I will keg and force carbon or whether I will bottle condition.
Will keep the group posted!
 
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suitbrewing

suitbrewing

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A week ago I have brewed the beer.
I pitched the WLP1 @ 1.058
A week later I am @ 1.010 (its been a couple of days).
I intent to perform a diacetyl rest for the next two days (21c today, 22c tomorrow) and then rack to a clean fermentor for another 7 days where I will perform the dry hopping.
I am still undecided whether I will keg and force carbon or whether I will bottle condition.
Will keep the group posted!
 

lstewart89

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A week ago I have brewed the beer.
I pitched the WLP1 @ 1.058
A week later I am @ 1.010 (its been a couple of days).
I intent to perform a diacetyl rest for the next two days (21c today, 22c tomorrow) and then rack to a clean fermentor for another 7 days where I will perform the dry hopping.
I am still undecided whether I will keg and force carbon or whether I will bottle condition.
Will keep the group posted!
FG is looking good. Don't bother moving to a clean fermenter for dry hopping, just throw the hops into this fermenter. It's not worth the risk of oxidation during transfer. I'm sure a bunch of other people will agree.

If you decide to keg, some people like to dry hop in the keg. Could be something to consider if that sounds interesting to you (and if you have more hops).
 
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suitbrewing

suitbrewing

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I increased the temp to 21c last night. I also took a reading and gravity is now down to 1.009.
The plan is to increase it to 22c tonight and then back to 20c for dry hoping.
I am all for not racking to secondary as I had some Diacetyl problems with my last batch. This was either due to removing the beer from the yeast to early or due to contamination (both risks amplified by racking to secondary).
I will keep the dry hops in for 7 days and will then transfer to the Keg.
When you dry hop in primary do you tie the hop bag on the fermentor or do you let it float and then settle on the trub/yeast cake? Does it matter?
Also would you cold crush prior to transferring to the Keg
In terms of keg hops, this sound like a fantastic idea. I could go buy some more mosaic from my LHBS to be added during kegging.
Mind you that I am using standard Sankey kegs so there may be certain practicalities. I have been warned by some fellow local home brewers that if the hop bag is left to move freely it will block the beer flow (bottom of the spear). There is also the issue of getting the bloated hop bag out after the keg is finished. Any experiences??
 

lstewart89

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I increased the temp to 21c last night. I also took a reading and gravity is now down to 1.009.
The plan is to increase it to 22c tonight and then back to 20c for dry hoping.
I am all for not racking to secondary as I had some Diacetyl problems with my last batch. This was either due to removing the beer from the yeast to early or due to contamination (both risks amplified by racking to secondary).
I will keep the dry hops in for 7 days and will then transfer to the Keg.
When you dry hop in primary do you tie the hop bag on the fermentor or do you let it float and then settle on the trub/yeast cake? Does it matter?
Also would you cold crush prior to transferring to the Keg
In terms of keg hops, this sound like a fantastic idea. I could go buy some more mosaic from my LHBS to be added during kegging.
Mind you that I am using standard Sankey kegs so there may be certain practicalities. I have been warned by some fellow local home brewers that if the hop bag is left to move freely it will block the beer flow (bottom of the spear). There is also the issue of getting the bloated hop bag out after the keg is finished. Any experiences??
Diacetyl definitely could be from a premature rack to secondary. Since you're fermenting near 20 degrees the yeast should have no issues cleaning up after itself at that temperature if given the time.

I never secondary anymore. I think the only time I would do it, in theory, is if I wanted to bulk age a huge beer like an imperial stout, and needed my fermentation vessel for other brews.

When I dry hop I just throw the hops in, no bag. It's definitely easier this way, and you don't have to worry about sanitizing a bag and whatnot. There's no real need to cold crash before kegging if your keg is going to be in a vessel with temperature control, you could just crash post kegging. But I don't keg my beer so someone with experience doing so can probably be more helpful with regards to that (and with regards to keg dry hopping and its potential issues) :D
 
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suitbrewing

suitbrewing

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Diacetyl rest is now done
85gr (3.oz) 50/50 Mosaic/Centennial are now in the fermentor (loose)
I also took temp down to 20c.

Will leave it like that for a week and then cold crush down to 2-3c for a 2-3 days.

I will then transfer to keg for force carb.

I tried the sample yesterday and I was very pleased!
 
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suitbrewing

suitbrewing

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I have kegged the ipa today!
Amazing smell of tropical fruits and lively taste.

My first ipa with proper hoppy taste, I think mostly due to the clean fermentation.

Its know @ 2c carbonating under 30psi for 24hours.

Will then take it down to 12psi.

Needless to say that I cannot keep my hands of the tap.

Thanks to all for the input!
 
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