Experienced Brewer First Time BIAB, Couple of Questions

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phuff7129

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I have been brewing using a 3 vessel system for 4 years and I recently read an article in Zymurgy about the BIAB process and thought I would give it a try.

I found the process to be very simple and I used the burner to control my temps which worked way better than I thought it would. Hit my mash pH and OG. I figured around 75% mash efficiency and got 76% so I got lucky on the guess.

One of the things I noticed is it seemed like my wort was fairly dirty. It definitely had a lot of fine grain material in it. My bag has a fine mesh and I did a fine crush. Is this normal or do I need to get a finer bag? I am sure it will settle out in fermentation. I was just curious if other people get the same fine grain material in their worts. When I mash in a mash tun my wort is a lot cleaner.

Another question is I have read that some people do a mash out. Is there a real benefit to doing a mash out? How is doing a mash out at 168 different than pulling the grain bag and firing up the burner and starting your boil. Both ways should stop conversion and lock in your mash profile. Am I missing something?
 
Another question is I have read that some people do a mash out. Is there a real benefit to doing a mash out? How is doing a mash out at 168 different than pulling the grain bag and firing up the burner and starting your boil. Both ways should stop conversion and lock in your mash profile. Am I missing something?

Not missing anything. Just yank the bag to stop the conversion.
 
I have been brewing using a 3 vessel system for 4 years and I recently read an article in Zymurgy about the BIAB process and thought I would give it a try.

I found the process to be very simple and I used the burner to control my temps which worked way better than I thought it would. Hit my mash pH and OG. I figured around 75% mash efficiency and got 76% so I got lucky on the guess.

One of the things I noticed is it seemed like my wort was fairly dirty. It definitely had a lot of fine grain material in it. My bag has a fine mesh and I did a fine crush. Is this normal or do I need to get a finer bag? I am sure it will settle out in fermentation. I was just curious if other people get the same fine grain material in their worts. When I mash in a mash tun my wort is a lot cleaner.

Another question is I have read that some people do a mash out. Is there a real benefit to doing a mash out? How is doing a mash out at 168 different than pulling the grain bag and firing up the burner and starting your boil. Both ways should stop conversion and lock in your mash profile. Am I missing something?

I think mostly you're missing the exercise of stirring hot mash for about 20 minutes as you slowly bring that BIAB mash up to mash temperature so you don't burn the bag or the grains. Otherwise, when the grains have given up their wort and you have heated the wort up to a boil, I'd say the conversion was over.:rockin:
 
Love it when a 3v experienced brewer tries BIAB, kinda gives BIAB some credibility.

I do both BIAB, and 3V with a cooler MT. Using my cooler with braid will produce cleaner wort, but I don't think it makes a noticeable difference in the final product, perhaps more trub in the kettle and fermenter if your counting.

A fine weave poly voile bag will pass less dust than a paint strainer IMO.

Welcome to the dark side. :)
Cheers
Wilser


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Yes, also agreed that a good long stir after the mash rest may be beneficial, I'm not a fan of mash out w/ BIAB, but do it on occasion considering I need to add heat either way, sooner or later.



Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
I do a mash out every time, but never really understood why.

If you don't already have one, get one of Wilserbrewer's bags. It made the process a lot easier than paint strainers, which are never big enough.

I use Whirlfloc and have a lot of crud that falls out in the fermenter, and it eventually completely clears in the fridge.
 
I think mostly you're missing the exercise of stirring hot mash for about 20 minutes as you slowly bring that BIAB mash up to mash temperature so you don't burn the bag or the grains. Otherwise, when the grains have given up their wort and you have heated the wort up to a boil, I'd say the conversion was over.:rockin:

With BIAB, you don't stir hot mash for 20 minutes to bring it up to mash temperature. You bring water up to strike temperature, put in your bag, pour in your grains, stir to break up any dough balls, cover, and let it sit for your mash duration.
 
With BIAB, you don't stir hot mash for 20 minutes to bring it up to mash temperature. You bring water up to strike temperature, put in your bag, pour in your grains, stir to break up any dough balls, cover, and let it sit for your mash duration.

Thanks for that. I misplaced a word I meant to have in my post. the following statement I made,

I think mostly you're missing the exercise of stirring hot mash for about 20 minutes as you slowly bring that BIAB mash up to mash temperature so you don't burn the bag or the grains.

Should have said,
I think mostly you're missing the exercise of stirring hot mash for about 20 minutes as you slowly bring that BIAB mash up to mash out temperature so you don't burn the bag or the grains.
You can color my face red for making that mistake.
 
Phuff, I actually came to BIAB after, let's see ... 18 years now that I counted ... of brewing experience. I own/have access to two complete all-grain setups, one being 3 vessel herms/rims with every piece of gadgetry known to brewing. I was simply looking for a way to very quickly get back to doing one beer that would be my house beer. It had to be easily and quickly able to be reproduced, which led me to BIAB.

I was worried about the wort clarity too, but it turns out it really does clear up after some time, so don't worry there. As for the mashout, it's strictly more of a mechanical thing to get more fermentables out of your grain - higher temperature makes the sugars more apt to make it into solution and not go down the compost pile with your grains. If you're looking for simplicity, just assume a lower extraction rate and pay the 50 cents or whatever for another pound of grain and don't worry about the mashout.

Oh, and get Wilserbrewer's bags/pulley - they work like a charm.
 
Phuff, I actually came to BIAB after, let's see ... 18 years now that I counted ... of brewing experience.



I too have been brewing since the 1996, 1995, or 1994... somewhere in there. We used to BIAB then. That is just how it was done back then.

I haven't brewed in a bag in probably 10 or 15 years. Who knows.

I am making a complete reversion to the old way... for simplicity sake.
 
Thanks everyone for their input. I definitely think that some experimentation is in order. I am going to plan to do the same brew both in biab and using the 3 vessel system and compare the brews side by side. Should be an interesting comparison. Has anyone else done this?
 
Thanks for that. I misplaced a word I meant to have in my post. the following statement I made,



Should have said, You can color my face red for making that mistake.
Oh. That makes more sense.

Discussions elsewhere on HBT say that sparge water works equally well hot as cold, so I, too, am doubting the value of a mashout.
 
Thanks everyone for their input. I definitely think that some experimentation is in order. I am going to plan to do the same brew both in biab and using the 3 vessel system and compare the brews side by side. Should be an interesting comparison. Has anyone else done this?

Yes.

My personal experiments have resulted in a slow transition to the "dark side" :)... Not just because it's easier...;)

X's two on what Calvey says:mug:...

Invest in a bag designed for wort...not paint. Double mill the grain if you plan on doing a FV batch for an accurate comparison in the BIAB batch.

Looking forward to your results.
 
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