EVA Barrier on 1/4" Barb

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slurms

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I'm building myself a kegerator and am looking to upgrade the gas lines to EVA Barrier. I bought a few 1/4" gas line disconnects and wanted to put it on the gas main line outside of the freezer to easily disconnect the tank from. Does anyone have any experience with getting the EVA Barrier line over a 1/4" barb? Looks like the 6mm ID line is closest to 1/4" so I assume that would work. But any luck using the 5mm line? Dare I ask, 4mm?

Also, think that the disconnects are even worth adding to the gas line? They seem like they could be convenient.
 
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slurms

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I may have just came across a groundbreaking epiphany. I have to swap out the 5/16" barb on the regulator out-line to a 1/4" flare fitting, then the corresponding Duotight flare fitting can just get unscrewed. So, unnecessary for the disconnects in the first place...
 

Holden Caulfield

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Does anyone have any experience with getting the EVA Barrier line over a 1/4" barb? Looks like the 6mm ID line is closest to 1/4" so I assume that would work. But any luck using the 5mm line? Dare I ask, 4mm?
Many have attached the 5mm to 1/4" barb with good success. A swaging tool helps with the process after warming the tube in boiling water. Picture below.
I may have just came across a groundbreaking epiphany. I have to swap out the 5/16" barb on the regulator out-line to a 1/4" flare fitting, then the corresponding Duotight flare fitting can just get unscrewed. So, unnecessary for the disconnects in the first place...
It may be difficult to impossible to remove just the barb from a regulator shutoff. I have two Taprites and have been unable to do so. If that is your case, you can remove the entire barbed shutoff and replace with a flared. A bit more expensive but it will solve your problem. Picture below.


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1616448002218.png
 

Bobby_M

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I may have just came across a groundbreaking epiphany. I have to swap out the 5/16" barb on the regulator out-line to a 1/4" flare fitting, then the corresponding Duotight flare fitting can just get unscrewed. So, unnecessary for the disconnects in the first place...
You mean swap the entire valve out.. The barb is an integral part of the valve's function and cannot be swapped out.
 

DuncB

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I have duotight on my regulator to the 8mm OD EVA barrier line. Then to the ball lock connector. I have put a bulkhead gas post into the fridge side so that the gas can be connected on and off. My cylinder is outside the keg fridge.
But the regulator came with a fitting for the duotight connector although it could be swapped for a barbed connector.
 

marc1

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I may have just came across a groundbreaking epiphany. I have to swap out the 5/16" barb on the regulator out-line to a 1/4" flare fitting, then the corresponding Duotight flare fitting can just get unscrewed. So, unnecessary for the disconnects in the first place...
FYI, some people have had problems with the Duotight flare fittings cracking and causing a leak. Perhaps there were bad batches, or a design flaw, or they were over tightened. I have them on gas and liquid connections and have had no problems (knock on wood).
If you get them, I recommend the little plastic crescent pieces to lock them in place.
I believe John Guest makes fittings that also work with EVA Barrier, and have no reports of failures here.
 

DuncB

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Touch wood I have been okay, and have also used on the Nitro side as well with higher pressure.
They don't like the tubing bent acutely after coming out of the connectors.
 

Bobby_M

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FYI, some people have had problems with the Duotight flare fittings cracking and causing a leak. Perhaps there were bad batches, or a design flaw, or they were over tightened. I have them on gas and liquid connections and have had no problems (knock on wood).
If you get them, I recommend the little plastic crescent pieces to lock them in place.
I believe John Guest makes fittings that also work with EVA Barrier, and have no reports of failures here.
Agree there have been reports of this and in all cases the user described wrench tightening. The recommended practice is keg lube on the threads, hand tight, check for leaks, 1/16th of a turn further to stop the leak. I had John Guest fittings on my 7 faucet kegerator and changed them out to Duotight because the double oring seal deals with flexes of the tubing a lot better than the single oring on the JG.

Realize that there are over 10,000 duotight fittings out in service. You'll find a few reports of cracking here and there but 5000+ users don't all post that they've had a good experience with them.
 

eric19312

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Manifolds are not all that expensive. I know lots of folks manage to get EVA onto those barbs with heat, swaging tools etc but the easy path is to get a new manifold and go with the flare fit duotight fittings. You will love them.
 

marc1

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Agree there have been reports of this and in all cases the user described wrench tightening. The recommended practice is keg lube on the threads, hand tight, check for leaks, 1/16th of a turn further to stop the leak. I had John Guest fittings on my 7 faucet kegerator and changed them out to Duotight because the double oring seal deals with flexes of the tubing a lot better than the single oring on the JG.

Realize that there are over 10,000 duotight fittings out in service. You'll find a few reports of cracking here and there but 5000+ users don't all post that they've had a good experience with them.
I used the Duotight instructions that recommend a wrench (but limit how much to tighten):
 
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slurms

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You mean swap the entire valve out.. The barb is an integral part of the valve's function and cannot be swapped out.
Yes, that is what I meant. Though I'm thinking it's not worth it and just stretch the tubing over the barb.

Also, I know I've heard it's an integral part of the valve, but why is that? Is there something inside the barb that does something with the valve?
 

Joeywhat

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In some cases it's the valve seat, so it's what the movable valve seals against when it's closed. A different fitting may not have the correct seat depth or not have the correct profile for the valve, so the valve may not operate at all, or it may not seat correctly.
 
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