Equipment check list - mostly small batch

[smithchar526]

I am trying to get back into brewing after a 5 year break, so lets just assume I dont remember anything and am new to brewing.

I am ditching most of my old setup for various reasons and want to do the BIAB method and primarily do 2.5 gallon batches but want to have the option to do 5 gallon batches from time to time.

So just trying to gather a parts list and make sure I am not missing anything.

My budget isnt great so I am trying to get the best I can without going crazy but I would rather buy good once and not have to replace crap that doesnt hold up. Dont need high end but dont want bottom of the barrel either.

#1. I need a new brew kettle. I plan on a 10 gallon one. One concern is if I get a 10 gallon is the location of the thermometer. In a 10 gallon pot they look to put them in about the same place which from what I can tell almost looks to be near the 4 gallon mark (just a guess looking at pictures), which I would think would be to high for 2.5 gallon batches? I have threaded 3 way ball values and thermometers already but I could just get new weldless fittings if need be. If the thermometer location is fine on most 10 gal pots then has anyone have experience with this kettle : https://www.homebrewing.org/10-Gallon-2-Weld-Volume-Marked-Brew-Pot_p_6827.html

This is the price point I would love but the comment about rust and just the looks of the welds gives me concerns. I would rather pay more once then buy something that wont hold up and have to replace.

Then my other option I was thinking was going with Spike brewing kettles either the vertical config like this one https://spikebrewing.com/collection...s/10-gallon-brew-kettle-2-horizontal-couplers or the normal horizontal config. Though with the vertical config it says it at the 1 gallon mark which seams low and would show bad temps given how close to the burners?

or maybe this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DY66RSL/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20


Any other recommendations on a kettle or suggestions? I would like it to have the volume markings and welded is preferred. But Im not completely against weldless and can drill my own hole and put the thermometer maybe at around the 2 gallon mark?

2. Plan to get a grain mill so I can fine grind. Was thinking The Barley Crusher $119 at amazon?

3. False bottom for kettle to keep bag off the bottom?

For my 2.5 gallon batches I will ferment in 5 gallon kegs for primary and then transfer from there to 2.5 gallon keg.

I do have a older mach pump that I might add in at some point if I want to try to recirculate or anything like that but I could add that later. I have burners, chillers, and can setup a pulley for the grain bag.

Space is of little concern, I have as much space as needed but really want to limit the things I need to clean.

The kettle suggestion is really my main concern but also just wanted and tips or advice about something I might want that I could be forgetting.

 

[IslandLizard]

What is your current kettle? Too small?

I think you can easily sacrifice the kettle thermometer. I've never used the "thermometer port" that came on my equipment for a thermometer. The protruding probe is also something the bag can snag on. Use a regular (fast acting) digital thermometer instead, much more universal.

Now a higher placed (in the middle or higher) thermometer port can be much better used as a return for a whirlpool, which would work great with your March pump.

What is your heating source? Can it easily handle boiling 4-4.5 gallons (for a 2.5-3 gallon batch)? How about boiling 7-7.5 gallons 5-5.5 gallon batches?

I think you can get the Barley Crusher for a bit less actually.

 

[soccerdad]

A couple of phone call should tell you how many gallons to submerge the temp probe. Personally, I would skip the false bottom .. heat to 155, cut heat, mash in, insulate kettle. But I understand, if you get to reciculating you will want the FB

 

[LittleRiver]

... brew kettle. I plan on a 10 gallon one.

Good call. Consider bumping up to 15gal. It'll give you more options on batch size, and give some more room at the top to avoid boilovers.

One concern is ... the location of the thermometer.

For BIAB I think the best location for the thermometer is not on the kettle. The probe of a kettle mounted thermometer can snag your bag and rip it.

I think a thermometer with a remote probe is ideal for BIAB. That's what I use.

Plan to get a grain mill so I can fine grind. Was thinking The Barley Crusher $119 at amazon?

Lots of folks on this forum have had good success with the Cereal Killer. The $99 deal which includes shipping and a mounting plate can't be beat.

I use the Kegco three roller mill, and like it.

False bottom for kettle to keep bag off the bottom?

Not required. I prefer to have the full volume of water available to mix with the grain during the mash.

... pump that I might add in at some point if I want to try to recirculate...

Lots of people recirculate, but it's certainly not required to make good beer. Once you add a wort pump you introduce a whole new set of issues, and more things to clean at the end of the day. I made a conscious decision to avoid pumping wort, and have never regretted the decision.

...setup a pulley for the grain bag...

That's one of the simplest and most effective things you can do to make your BIAB brew day more enjoyable.

After the mash I hoist the bag and immediately fire the burner for the boil. Gravity drains the bag into the kettle, it will run for over half an hour. I don't squeeze the bag, that's a sticky mess. Just let gravity fully drain the bag.

I don't sparge either, there's no need. I get about 83% efficiency with a .025" grain crush. I can hit or exceed recipe targets no problem, so I would only consider a sparge if I wanted a higher alcohol content.

... really want to limit the things I need to clean...

I use a very simple single vessel BIAB rig, and my brew days are very enjoyable. I love the elegant simplicity of it, and the beer is great. Cleanup is a breeze. I never have problems with wort pumps, controllers, stuck sparges, etc, because they're not part of my process.

 

[smithchar526]

What is your current kettle? Too small?

I think you can easily sacrifice the kettle thermometer. I've never used the "thermometer port" that came on my equipment for a thermometer. The protruding probe is also something the bag can snag on. Use a regular (fast acting) digital thermometer instead, much more universal.

Now a higher placed (in the middle or higher) thermometer port can be much better used as a return for a whirlpool, which would work great with your March pump.

What is your heating source? Can it easily handle boiling 4-4.5 gallons (for a 2.5-3 gallon batch)? How about boiling 7-7.5 gallons 5-5.5 gallon batches?

I think you can get the Barley Crusher for a bit less actually.

I have good propane burners that I was using to do 10 gallon batches so that wont be an issue. My old kettles are converted kegs, but I dont want to use those for a few reason. Ill have to consider ditching the thermometer port. Thanks

 

[smithchar526]

Good call. Consider bumping up to 15gal. It'll give you more options on batch size, and give some more room at the top to avoid boilovers.



For BIAB I think the best location for the thermometer is not on the kettle. The probe of a kettle mounted thermometer can snag your bag and rip it.

I think a thermometer with a remote probe is ideal for BIAB. That's what I use.



Lots of folks on this forum have had good success with the Cereal Killer. The $99 deal which includes shipping and a mounting plate can't be beat.

I use the Kegco three roller mill, and like it.



Not required. I prefer to have the full volume of water available to mix with the grain during the mash.



Lots of people recirculate, but it's certainly not required to make good beer. Once you add a wort pump you introduce a whole new set of issues, and more things to clean at the end of the day. I made a conscious decision to avoid pumping wort, and have never regretted the decision.



That's one of the simplest and most effective things you can do to make your BIAB brew day more enjoyable.

After the mash I hoist the bag and immediately fire the burner for the boil. Gravity drains the bag into the kettle, it will run for over half an hour. I don't squeeze the bag, that's a sticky mess. Just let gravity fully drain the bag.

I don't sparge either, there's no need. I get about 83% efficiency with a .025" grain crush. I can hit or exceed recipe targets no problem, so I would only consider a sparge if I wanted a higher alcohol content.



I use a very simple single vessel BIAB rig, and my brew days are very enjoyable. I love the elegant simplicity of it, and the beer is great. Cleanup is a breeze. I never have problems with wort pumps, controllers, stuck sparges, etc, because they're not part of my process.

Thanks for the advice... what thermometer with a remote probe do you use? I was considering the Cereal Crusher for the mill, but the other had better reviews for just a little more but if its good enough then I can use the extra money to buy some other stuff.

 

[smithchar526]

A couple of phone call should tell you how many gallons to submerge the temp probe. Personally, I would skip the false bottom .. heat to 155, cut heat, mash in, insulate kettle. But I understand, if you get to reciculating you will want the FB

Thanks Ill skip the false bottom for now and wait until I brew some batches to see how things go.

 

[smithchar526]

Good call. Consider bumping up to 15gal. It'll give you more options on batch size, and give some more room at the top to avoid boilovers.



For BIAB I think the best location for the thermometer is not on the kettle. The probe of a kettle mounted thermometer can snag your bag and rip it.

I think a thermometer with a remote probe is ideal for BIAB. That's what I use.



Lots of folks on this forum have had good success with the Cereal Killer. The $99 deal which includes shipping and a mounting plate can't be beat.

I use the Kegco three roller mill, and like it.



Not required. I prefer to have the full volume of water available to mix with the grain during the mash.



Lots of people recirculate, but it's certainly not required to make good beer. Once you add a wort pump you introduce a whole new set of issues, and more things to clean at the end of the day. I made a conscious decision to avoid pumping wort, and have never regretted the decision.



That's one of the simplest and most effective things you can do to make your BIAB brew day more enjoyable.

After the mash I hoist the bag and immediately fire the burner for the boil. Gravity drains the bag into the kettle, it will run for over half an hour. I don't squeeze the bag, that's a sticky mess. Just let gravity fully drain the bag.

I don't sparge either, there's no need. I get about 83% efficiency with a .025" grain crush. I can hit or exceed recipe targets no problem, so I would only consider a sparge if I wanted a higher alcohol content.



I use a very simple single vessel BIAB rig, and my brew days are very enjoyable. I love the elegant simplicity of it, and the beer is great. Cleanup is a breeze. I never have problems with wort pumps, controllers, stuck sparges, etc, because they're not part of my process.

Also on the 15gal question...I could do 15 gallon expecially if I do a remote prob thermometer but I was concerned on 2.5 gallon batches that having that much extra room would cause to much heat loss during the mash, that and just a bigger pot to cliean

 

[LittleRiver]

... what thermometer with a remote probe do you use? ...

I use the Thermoworks ChefAlarm. I like that it has a thermometer, hi/lo temp alarms, and a timer in one unit. If it has a weakness it's that it only accepts their Pro Series probes, which don't have a waterproof junction between the probe body and the cable. I fixed that by encasing that junction and the cable with some hi temp shrink wrap.

A good value for a thermometer (only) with a remote hot wort proof probe is the MTC Mini with the K type PTFE probe.

 

[wilserbrewer]

At 2.5 gallon batches I would suggest keeping it simple. No pumps no thermometers w alarms no worries.

Get your mash temp stabile and set your kettle in the oven and forget about it for an hour.

A cheap 8 gallon aluminum tamale pot is all you need imo. Not even a valve lol. At the small batch size you can pour from the kettle, or use a small sanitized pitcher to to move your wort.

At 2.5 gallons I’d be tempted to chill in your kitchen sink as well....once with water, then dump all your ice from your freezer...simple!

 

[RM-MN]

Grains, yeast, and hops make beer, equipment is just a route to that end.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/COKO-Man...5743&wl11=online&wl12=118653072&wl13=&veh=sem

https://www.kitchenrestock.com/Winc...xQmIKXoLVq3kYwavSS8aq7CtIDEz3OVcaAtkmEALw_wcB

https://www.midwestsupplies.com/dial-thermometer

These all work to make beer. I have the dial thermometer. It's accurate. I have the Corona style mill. It grinds grain fine. I use a smaller pot but if my back would take handling the larger pot full I would have one like the one I linked to. The difference in price would buy a lot of grain.