Enzyme denaturation

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redking11

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So in Biology class we did an experiment with enzymes that proved that enzymes have an ideal temperature zone & PH where they work most efficiently, and of course different enzymes have different ideal temperatures & PH zones. Enzymes still function outside theses zones just very slowly. The lab also showed that as long as the temperature didn't get so hot that the enzymes were denatured, that they would resume high efficiency work once they were brought back to their ideal temp. My question is this:

What are the enzymes in our mash that convert starch to sugar, what are their ideal temperature ranges and what I most want to know is at what temperature are they denatured?

My theory is this, if I make a mash mistake and get too hot then I should be ok by reducing heat & increasing mash time by the amount of time that I was over temp. But if I go so hot as to denature, then it is time to scrap the batch or reduce heat and add more grains and thereby replenish the enzymes that I killed. So, at what temp are these enzymes denatured?
 
There is a lot of readily available information on this in great detail. A quick search should pull up a lot of great stuff.

However, it's generally accepted that 170F is where saccharification is inhibited by the denaturing of alpha and beta amylase.
 
There is a lot of readily available information on this in great detail. A quick search should pull up a lot of great stuff.

However, it's generally accepted that 170F is where saccharification is inhibited by the denaturing of alpha and beta amylase.

The generally quoted time/temp is 10 min at 170F to denature alpha amylase. It will still denature at lower temps, but take longer. Beta amylase denatures in 10 min at 158F. Couple of charts for enzyme lifetime vs. temp can be found here: http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Starch_Conversion.

Brew on :mug:
 
I think that answers the question. At 170 F you scrap the **** and start over. **** I hate Brew In the Bag. Trying to brew in cold weather is a ***** unless you sit there and baby sit your mash!
 
I think you are right about BIAB. You really have to keep a close eye on it. The thing is, for me that's half of the fun. I'm in this thing because it takes great care over a relatively long period of time for me to make something cool. I use a cooler and ice packs in my fermentor. I enjoy the interaction.

It sounds like you don't want to have to mess with it as much and I think that is 100% valid. Since you posted, I assume you are looking for a solution. So if that's the case then. Insulate your pot, mash in a cooler inside, simplify in the winter to partial mash extract batches, make a mash temp comtroller. These are the ideas I would use to solve your problem, but only you can know what your priorities are. I'm not sure your beer will be as bad as you think, pitch and see. You never know. Good luck.
 
I hate Brew In the Bag. Trying to brew in cold weather is a ***** unless you sit there and baby sit your mash!

I, and many others, use the single vessel BIAB brewing method and do not need to baby sit anything, even if the weather is miserably cold. If you'd like some help with your process, mosey on over to the BIAB sub forum and ask a few questions.
 
I think that answers the question. At 170 F you scrap the **** and start over. **** I hate Brew In the Bag. Trying to brew in cold weather is a ***** unless you sit there and baby sit your mash!

You can buy the enzymes (alpha amylase) in powder form. I think many homebrew shops carry it. If you denature the mash enzymes, I don't see why you can't just mix in more.
 
You can buy the enzymes (alpha amylase) in powder form. I think many homebrew shops carry it. If you denature the mash enzymes, I don't see why you can't just mix in more.

Here is an interesting question. Could you decrease your mash time by adding store bought amylase without affecting quality? Sure would be nice to cut a half hour or of brew day.
 
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